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Where to Source Hard Plate

Forgot how to dial the combination on that old safe? Think you got the right numbers but the handle is stuck? What safe should you buy? Ask your safe questions here!
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You are posting this in This Old Safe, a public area of the forum.

Safe manipulation discussion is allowed, but safe drilling or other destructive entry is only allowed in the Advanced - Safes and Safe Locks area.

If you are a guest of the forum and have a safe you need to open, but you do not have the combination, we cannot tell you how or where to drill it.

Re: Where to Source Hard Plate

Postby tpark » 8 Mar 2017 18:28

GWiens2001 wrote:
tpark wrote:How do you cut shapes out of this stuff? Also, how do you join it without ruining its hardness?


It is actually quite easy. You just gnaw on it with your teeth. Your progress will be based on time - about 150,000 years to the inch, if your teeth last that long.

As for other methods available to the common person - get an angle grinder and a lot of discs.

Gordon


I guess that hard to cut through is sort of the point anyway. I was thinking more along the lines of cutting it with a torch, then grinding the edge down. I don't have the "Jaws" teeth, so gnawing is out :)
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Re: Where to Source Hard Plate

Postby Jacob Morgan » 8 Mar 2017 20:06

Heating the AR plate, be it flame cutting it to size, or welding it to something else, will soften the plate on the edges where the heat is applied. Here is an article on welding it: http://www.thefabricator.com/article/consumables/cracking-the-case

If you have access to a stick welder and you want to save some money, you could could lay down some beads of hard facing material on some ordinary steel and use it as though it were hard plate. Not practical for really large areas, but for a few square inches maybe an option. The hard facing is abrasion resistant. http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/consumables/hardfacing/Pages/wearshield-stick-electrodes.aspx

Finally, if you have access to a forge of some sort (know anyone who makes knives or shoes horses?) you could get a piece of high carbon tool steel and do the heat-to-cherry-red, quench, heat slowly to blue then set aside method to create a piece of hardened steel. Or, even with mild steel you could case-harden it http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/color-case-hardening/surface-hardening-compound-prod27119.aspx which would be better than nothing.

You could get creative if the hard steel plate is not working out. For example, make a slurry of aluminum oxide (blasting grit) and epoxy and put it on a sheet of copper and repeat a few times to make a sandwich then back it up with some sheet metal. Could make one layer of small ball bearings in epoxy. Copper would grab drill bits and the aluminum oxide would dull drill bits. Or buy some cheap files from the hardware store, cut them (break them) to size, and use them for hardplate.
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Re: Where to Source Hard Plate

Postby djed » 10 Mar 2017 18:18

Regina wrote:Where are you located and what distentions do you need?


I'm near Universal Studios in Los Angeles.

If "distention" means size, I was hoping for 1/4" thick by 4" x 6" (possible 3" x 5"). I've got an oxy-acetylene torch that I can use to cut the material though I was hoping I could buy an already cut piece of scrap.
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Re: Where to Source Hard Plate

Postby djed » 13 Mar 2017 18:44

$11.00 for a 4" diameter x 3/8" thick piece at Industrial Metal Supply in San Fernando, CA.

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Re: Where to Source Hard Plate

Postby Squelchtone » 13 Mar 2017 21:08

Djed, thats an awesome score!
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Re: Where to Source Hard Plate

Postby Lelandwelds » 18 Jul 2017 15:07

This old post is new to me...

Don't forget the scrap yard. Old big truck leaf springs are probably 5160. Ball bearings are probably 52100. If it's cast, magnetic, and throws a long spark, it's probably 1050. Drill bits are HSS. Stainless might not be "hard" but a torch won't cut it and it's a to drill. Magnetic stainless is 410 , etc. Non magnetic rolled steel is probably 14% manganese steel. Huge circular saw blade body is probably 8670 or 15N20.

All get hard. Easyish to weld with 500*F to 700*F pre heat. Except manganese, it gets a wet rag. E310 or E312 stick for will weld any steel to any steel. It IS hidden after all.

I'd just plug weld it and run some stringer beads spaced a bit apart with some hardfacing.
Last edited by Lelandwelds on 18 Jul 2017 15:12, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Where to Source Hard Plate

Postby Lelandwelds » 18 Jul 2017 15:09

. .
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