Forgot how to dial the combination on that old safe? Think you got the right numbers but the handle is stuck? What safe should you buy? Ask your safe questions here!
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billdeserthills wrote: What I mean is the SY series have left, right & center profile key blanks & you would need to stock at least 3 different blanks to cover all the possibilities
I assume 5-pin on these? I'm seeing four possible keyways, if I'm looking at the correct series.
Both 5 & 6 pin blanks are available but it's easy to cut the shoulder back on the 5 pin blank, if you need a six pin key
I have this same lock in a larger safe I notice the rules have changed as far as manipulation if anyone could offer any guidance it would be apreciated.
ALCHEM1ST wrote:I have this same lock in a larger safe I notice the rules have changed as far as manipulation if anyone could offer any guidance it would be apreciated.
Welcome to the forum, and thank you for your first post!
If you could post an actual photo of your safe (not google image search "this looks pretty much like mine"), we can tell you more about it getting it open. Even though these safes all look 99% the same, the bolt work and other internals change from model to model.
Some Diplomat models also had better locks than other models.
ALCHEM1ST wrote:I have this same lock in a larger safe I notice the rules have changed as far as manipulation if anyone could offer any guidance it would be apreciated.
Welcome to the forum, and thank you for your first post!
If you could post an actual photo of your safe (not google image search "this looks pretty much like mine"), we can tell you more about it getting it open. Even though these safes all look 99% the same, the bolt work and other internals change from model to model.
Some Diplomat models also had better locks than other models.
Thank you for the photos, they really help narrow down which model you have.
While turning the key clockwise as far as it will turn, keep steady turning pressure on the key and with your other hand turn the dial 360 degrees in both directions. There should be a spot or two where the dial gets jammed up and wont turn.
If the dial does not bind up or feel a big bump in the road as you rotate the dial, turn the dial 4 times around all the way while applying clockwise turning pressure on the key and see if you can identify a few numbers around the dial where there is a change in how much drag you feel and especially any spots where the key can turn just a little more.
This process will force what is called the fence into the direct entry wheel gates. Turning the key clockwise makes the fence (a metal bar that slides left and right inside the door) to drag against the 3 combinations wheels inside, when a combination gate ( a slot in one of the wheels) turns past the fence, the fence bar wants to slide into the slot in the wheel but can only go in just a little because the fence is also hitting the other 2 wheels at that time and the slots (gates) in those wheels are not yet lined up facing the fence.
Try this out and let us know your findings, we can do some other manipulation related procedures as a next step.
This video shows pretty much what is inside your safe (minus the handle mechanism, but that's not important for these steps)
billdeserthills wrote: That part about older style dials sounds promising and although not as fun as learning manipulation, it may solve OPs problem much faster!
Squelchtone
While I would like to have it back operating soon I have been interested in lockpiking for a couple of years now and practice every now and then. Now that I know manipulation is a thing I'll probably buy a safe I can practice on.
I'll give more information as asked but I work long hours so not sure how quickly I can get back to trying to open it. I have sent them a message I hope they get back to me with something. Thanks for all the help and info.
If you buy a training safe, then look for a safe with a so called "direct entry fence lock" or "straight tailpiece lock". They are now available only in really cheap safes. In the past they were more common. Sentry sold a lot of safes with this kind of lock. The current locks from Sargent & Greenleaf and from LaGard - often called Group 2 locks - work differently and are differently manipulated.
Hi quick update I did as you said while holding pressure on the key I can feel it drop in two places one of them what I belive to be the third number as that's what the dial was set to before it closed and never opened. Not sure how helpfull but it also brakes loos from friction between 10-90 when turning left but does not happen when turning right. When turning the dial I can hear metal hitting every turn for three full turns either way.
Sorry for not giving info quicker but I been getting off work late. I apreciate all your help. Not sure if to keep numbers strait if I'm allowed to just reveal what they are I don't mind and dint see anything against this in the rules but figured I would ask first. Thanks again
