Disassembly of Star In-Floor Safe

[MartinHewitt]

Can you show us the parts you have? If there is a tension washer, then that would be the first. The first wheel to put on is the the wheel without a pin at the rear.

[sign216]

If the spline key is the "up" side, then is this photo of the correct arrangement of a wheel, with the tab washer next, and a spline washer on top.

[image] [/image]


Here is a photo of the wheel bottom, just to make sure I didn't reverse it.

[image] [/image]


Lastly, is this the tension washer? And is goes on the bottom of the stack, right?
[image] [/image]

[MartinHewitt]

The last photo shows the tension washer, yes. If you think the wheels are to heavy to turn, then flatten it. This comes in first. The second wheel shows the bottom side of the wheel. Two should have this fixed pin, one not. This wheel without comes in next. Then what you call the tab washer, spline washer, wheel, tab washer, spline washer, wheel, tab washer, clip. If you spline washers left, then one can be under the clip and if still more between wheel and tab washer.

[sign216]

MartinHewitt,

Two of the wheels have washers w small tabs, but one wheel has a washer w a large tab. I thought this was the middle wheel. What's going on with that?

The large tab is big enough it might interfere with the wheel's movement. Is it possible that this is the top wheel, to act on the dial linkage?

[MartinHewitt]

I'd put the long tab last. It is probably to reach the drive cam.

[sign216]

I'd put the long tab last. It is probably to reach the drive cam.

Last at the bottom, on top of the base plate?

Or last at the top, nearest the dial?

[MartinHewitt]

Last to insert pointing to the cam and interfacing with the cam. I assume you will not be able to put all wheels on the stack if you put it between two wheels.

[Squelchtone]

I am pretty sure there is a service manual floating around that shows the exploded view of these parts.

Google around for it

[sign216]

Last to insert pointing to the cam and interfacing with the cam. I assume you will not be able to put all wheels on the stack if you put it between two wheels.

Thank you. I thought the "large tab" wheel was the middle one, but I agree I must have made an error.

[sign216]

How can I remove the re-lockers on this Star safe head?

I disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled the safe head. But it won't rotate to unlock the bolts. It feels like the re-locker pins are jamming it (top photo). The re-locker pins are shown below, and they are depressed by the studs on the back cover (bottom photo).

However I don't see a way of getting into the re-lockers and removing them. Any ideas?

[image] [/image]

[image] [/image]

[billdeserthills]

Push down against the relocker while you push the bolt out, when the bolt is extended 1/2", the relocker will fire, then ya hafta push it down again while you pull the bolt out the rest of the way. The relockers are spring loaded
And once the bolt comes out about an inch, the relocker will also pop out

[sign216]

Push down against the relocker while you push the bolt out, when the bolt is extended 1/2", the relocker will fire, then ya hafta push it down again while you pull the bolt out the rest of the way. The relockers are spring loaded
And once the bolt comes out about an inch, the relocker will also pop out

The relocker bolts don't come out, even when the locking bolts have been removed. In the first photo you can see the relocker bolts at the bottom of the holes, where the yellow arrows are. Something is holding them in place.

[Squelchtone]

[ADMIN EDIT: I merged this back to one topic since we are still dealing with taking apart the same safe door. I ask that you please help us keep the forum organized and reduce extra work the moderator team has to do to keep the forum tidy.]

You can look over this https://silo.tips/download/amsec-star-major-92-service-manual service manual which shows the same exploded view already in this thread, but it does not specifically go into how to remove the relockers as they should just fall out. Yours are probably stuck in old grease or rust.

Have you tried sticking a flat head screw driver down one of the bolt holes to give the relock bolt a flick and help it out? Do you have a magnet on a stick you can put down the relock hole to try and grab the relock as you are prying it up with the screw driver down the bolt hole?

I photoshopped this diagram for you with actual photos of the parts from the parts replacement kit:


I would block the bolt holes with something, block the center of the door hole, and then pour some Marvel Mystery Oil or PB Blaster down the relock holes and let it sit over night, then try to free the relockers.

When you press against the relock bolts, are they still spring loaded or are they stuck and do not move at all?

Squelchtone

[sign216]

Squelch,

The relocker bolts are spring loaded, and active. The come up to hit the locking bolts, but are "captive" and won't go any further, even if the locking bolts are removed. They are in their spots firmly, as if by design.

Your second photo seem accurate, if blurry. It shows the locker bolts w springs, but held in place by a detente or protrusion in their channel. The relockers won't exit their spot.

Thanks for the Amsec star service manual, but it only shows the Star combo sequence. On the in-floor safe heads, it defaults to the Major brand, and their style of set up. It is silent on the complicated Star relocker system.

Honestly, I am ready to give it up on the Star system. It's overly complicated with no advantages.

Joe

[billdeserthills]

If you clean out the bolt holes and relockers, I don't suppose it matters if they come out or not but mine have always come out