Mosler Cannonball Safe (Parts Missing)

[djed]

The following arrived today.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/222101954021?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT . I'm running a 12 hour test to see how it works.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/351694704681?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

The Recta movement seems to work with some pressure but I still need a 3/8" by 66" mainspring. Does anyone know this size in "watchmakers terms"?

[averagejoe]

Squelchtone - I saw that but $150 for a movement seems a bit steep. TMI sells a serviced guaranteed to work movement for $200. I'm starting to wonder if billdeserthills is right about not needing a time lock. That and I'm having a terrible time getting the screws out of the back of the time lock case that is currently installed.

Averagejoe - PM sent.

David

Squirt some rust penetrate into them every once in a while for a few days and see if that helps. You can always get some new ones if you are forced to break the heads off.

[djed]

a single movement just appeared on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mosler-Bank-Saf ... 1980431992

There's a bidding war going on between two buyers and I'm not even bidding. What should I expect to pay for a potentially non-working movement?

Guys/Gals,

My better judgment tells me to pass on the movement for sale at auction on Ebay. First - the bidding war has driven the price to $60. Second, the movement is a 120. Third, the movement appears to be missing the winding shaft that winds the mainspring. Please correct me if you think I'm wrong.

David

[djed]

My mistake - it was not missing the winding shaft. I still didn't bid, but it sold for $51 + $7 shipping.

David

[djed]

Some updated pictures of the exterior, keeping in mind I don't have a sand blaster (yet).

https://imgur.com/zRD7L0F
https://imgur.com/GYpUtJI
https://imgur.com/oQaNuPY
https://imgur.com/iBdVWBG

I'm literally chipping away the led-based paint a little at a time. See picture 3 for a section I cleaned.

[Squelchtone]

My mistake - it was not missing the winding shaft. I still didn't bid, but it sold for $51 + $7 shipping.

David

You probably have months to find and buy a time lock if you decide to complete the safe restoration with one. Something is sure to come up on ebay eventually, no rush right?

Squelchtone

[djed]

I finally got the time lock case out.

I suspect it was a combination of the penetrating oil and the hammer drill with a slotted bit shaking it loose. Not pretty but it worked.

I spent a few hours cleaning it up and I was surprised by what I found. I realize many collectors want the antique patina but this case was well beyond patina.

https://imgur.com/LGyBSS4
https://imgur.com/QA00o1y
https://imgur.com/D5nI9Uk

I took the slide latch off the case so I don't need to keep picking the lock.

[averagejoe]

Oh wow, that was actually glass in there?

It cleaned up pretty nicely.

[djed]

Oh wow, that was actually glass in there?

It cleaned up pretty nicely.

Thank you. It's a thick plexiglass. You can't see it but it's tapered in the back at the corners so the washers holding the plexi in place are flush.

I'm still not sure if I want to take the brass down any further to get rid of the deep scratches some dumb a$$ carved into the case.

[djed]

I'm now stuck trying to get the four screws out of the plate at the rear of the time lock.

https://imgur.com/a29eR2v
https://imgur.com/FTYTksj

I'm wondering if the screws in the plate are connected to the front part of the door or are simply 1" - 3" screws that hold the plate in place.

https://imgur.com/h4txxQx

I've been treating the screws with PB Blaster. I've tried heat and my hammer drill. The slots are starting to strip and I've ruined more of my good screw drivers.

The good news I do have is I got the two posts out (that the rear plate screws into). I also got the large screw that holds the locking shim out. No more worrying about lockouts for now.

[Squelchtone]

could the screws you cannot get out be threaded righty loosey or have a flat on them deep inside the door that only allows them to turn and back out if the hand crank is turned to the open or locked position?

[Mighty]

Hard to tell from the pictures, but it kind of looks like the edges of the screws have been punched to hold them in place (or are those dents from your efforts?). I'm not sure of the best way to get past that, though I imagine it would require drilling out the punch hole to stop it from locking. Hopefully someone handier than me can offer less damaging advice.

Am I even looking at the right screws? Are you talking about the ones near the screwdriver tip?

[kwoswalt99-]

You need some of these, big and small, and a brace. They'll work better than your hammer drill ever will.

[djed]

Thanks guys. Keep the ideas coming.

Squelchtone - I will try the crank and see if that makes a difference. I did try righty loosey and they didn't budge.

Kwoswalt99 - I used my big screwdriver and put a wrench on them - similar (I think) to what those tools are that you linked. Some of those do have a wider slot so I may take a look into buying those.

Mighty - those are dents from my Bosch SDS hammer drill. I tried to vibrate the screws with the hammer function only and those are the resulting dents since the bit is about 1/4" too big. I don't think that locked them up but I'll check the next time I get a chance. I'll be sleeping in the safe if my wife catches me working on the safe on Mother's Day.

Again - thank you.

[billdeserthills]

Too bad you don't have a 'six bit impact screwdriver set w/ case', they are sold at harbor freight tools and usually cost about $25
on sale now for $8.99, part #37530
When you hit the back with a hammer, the front portion will turn left or right, they are very good at forcing
old screws to turn.