Mosler Cannonball Safe (Parts Missing)

[kwoswalt99-]

Those bits are for use in a brace: example I didn't think would work better than a wrench on a screwdriver either, at first, but they do.

[djed]

Thank you. I did not know that was called a "brace" until now.

I'll check my dad's garage as I suspect he has one of those in a drawer somewhere.

[djed]

I'm starting to think the four screws I can't remove are holding the two parts of the door together.

As to progress, I was able to get the interior shelf out. Boy - what a pain for such a simple part. This rust is killing me.

I'll post the picture of the shelf after I clean it up.

https://imgur.com/lIxoiiU
https://imgur.com/3fvQko8

[djed]

And the after pictures. It still needs to be sand blasted but the wire wheel on the grinder took 95% of the rust/dirt off.

https://imgur.com/wwyV6Ss
https://imgur.com/cHyP3VM

I'm very tempted to apply some POR-15 and a top coat just to say I got something done.

The logical side of my brain says to wait until I've thought everything out.

[djed]

Hard to tell from the pictures, but it kind of looks like the edges of the screws have been punched to hold them in place (or are those dents from your efforts?). I'm not sure of the best way to get past that, though I imagine it would require drilling out the punch hole to stop it from locking. Hopefully someone handier than me can offer less damaging advice.

Am I even looking at the right screws? Are you talking about the ones near the screwdriver tip?

Mighty,

I'm still struggling with the four screws and I re-read your post and looked at the punch and I think you are on to something. Can someone chime in if they know of a way to open a screw that has been punched. I can certainly drill the punch but don't want to do so if it's only a guess.

David

[billdeserthills]

I just wish I could let you try the harbor freight tool I posted about earlier, it really does work and it
costs less than $10

[djed]

OK - I'll spend the $9 and get one. I looked at the tools but the included bits seemed too small.

David

[djed]

Well - I got.

The trick was I forgot to swear like a drunken sailor while I was trying.

https://imgur.com/nyTVRr5

The screws ended up being only 3/4" long.

Ultimately, taking the plate off got me nowhere. I thought I would be able to access the screws/bolts that hold the door together but that was not the case.

https://imgur.com/F3bpqt7

There is a welded on plate that I'm not going to mess with unless one of you guys tells me that's the only way to get the door apart.

[Squelchtone]

Scope it to see what's inside those holes and if it's worth cleaning the inside of the door. Is it wet rusty or dry rusty? if the crank works well, spray a bunch of lithium grease inside and turn the gear back and fourth to work it in and call it a day, sand blast and paint the parts that will be painted, sand and polish the stainless shiny parts of the door that wont receive paint.

Squelchtone

[djed]

Squelchtone,

The door is hard to turn but that may be the nature of this beast.

This was in the desert sand so I'm worried sand got in the gears. I would love to clean and lube the door gears.

In the meantime, I'll use compressed air to blow out the gear and clean and lube as best as I can.

Your challenge, should you choose to accept it, is to figure out how the door comes apart into its two component pieces.

[averagejoe]

Send a message to Mats safe restoration and ask about it? The welds look pretty gnarly, personally I would take it out and have a nice looking weld put on.

[djed]

Averagejoe - thank you. Matt has been both helpful and kind.

The safe gave up another surprise this evening when I reached under the door ledge:

https://imgur.com/woSFzxc

Like everything else, it was rusted and one of the sides is rounded. But - it seems to do the trick on the one Mosler movement I have that works. I learned that the TMI made Moseler movement that I have has a smaller winding bar.

[djed]

Let it be noted that Matt earns every penny he earns restoring safes - not just for his artistry but for the incredibly hard work it takes.

I just finished sand blasting (didn't work) and then wire brushing the upper cavity and it's a terrible job. The sand blast dust made it impossible to see what I was doing. I was wearing a respirator, ear protection and a hood, and I'm sure I still ingested some abrasive, rust, and dirt.

I've never sand blasted before and I was surprised how fast I used up 25 lbs of abrasive - even on a low flow setting.

I'm excited for the dust to settle to see the results of my work.

Once the entire safe gets sand blasted, I'm going to have to figure out how to get the safe into my garage for the next steps.

[averagejoe]

If it is too heavy to roll by yourself use a come along or ratchet straps to pull it in.

[GWiens2001]

If it is too heavy to roll by yourself use a come along or ratchet straps to pull it in.

But be absolutely certain that whatever you anchor the other end of the come along to is up to the task. Recently saw some pics that a friend (general contractor) took of a door frame that was pulled out of the wall by the same tip.

Gordon