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Locking a bicycle that is worth less than $1000 USD

Thinking of upgrading your door security? Getting a better deadbolt or padlock? Getting a new frame or better hinges? Not sure what brand or model to go with for your particular application? Need a recommendation? Feel free to ask for advice here!

Re: Locking a bicycle that is worth less than $1000 USD

Postby Taubin » 20 Jun 2013 21:03

cledry wrote:
Here's the latest build. A 1952 Wearwell. Everything but the frame and fork and head badge is new and of good quality but designed to look old.



You seem to be missing a few parts there, not sure you'll make it very far on that bike :D


Seriously though, good lookin bike!
Just a newbie here to learn. Don't mind my overly stupid questions :)
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Re: Locking a bicycle that is worth less than $1000 USD

Postby cledry » 20 Jun 2013 23:03

Taubin wrote:
cledry wrote:
Here's the latest build. A 1952 Wearwell. Everything but the frame and fork and head badge is new and of good quality but designed to look old.



You seem to be missing a few parts there, not sure you'll make it very far on that bike :D


Seriously though, good lookin bike!


It is a push bike, literally. :lol:

I've got to tweak the dropouts this weekend before I put the chain on. Then just needs the grips (out of stock until at least July) and put the brake lever on for the front brake. I have some NOS brake cable that is coming from Canada which I am lining with teflon and putting stainless cables in. Thhe rear brke and rear gears don't use cables, so only the front will need a single cable. Almost there.
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Re: Locking a bicycle that is worth less than $1000 USD

Postby ARF-GEF » 21 Jun 2013 4:13

It is a beautiful bike Cledry :)
To infinity... and beyond!
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Re: Locking a bicycle that is worth less than $1000 USD

Postby cledry » 21 Jun 2013 17:18

ARF-GEF wrote:It is a beautiful bike Cledry :)


Cheers. Hopefully this weekend it will be roadworthy and I shall use it to visit a favourite pub.
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Re: Locking a bicycle that is worth less than $1000 USD

Postby Squelchtone » 22 Jun 2013 0:19

Maybe_Ra wrote:I'm still very curious if I should stay confident in the Kryptonite locks' ability. I AM less concerned with picking, but Kryptonite has had a history with their old tubular locks and bic pens. I've yet to find some claim of a theft by picking for the new style, so I'm still happy.


So not sure if you know about a lock company named Abloy, but the Abloy lock principle is pretty much what is used in the newer generation Kryptonite disc locks (as opposed to the ACEII tubular coke machine locks that could be opened with a Bic pen.

A company called Stanton Concepts, along with an Abloy dealer (securitysnobs) and friend to many of us here, have developed a new bike lock that is one long band of some sort of Titanium alloy, and has a real Abloy Protec disc lock on it (ok, the prototype at DEFCON had a real Abloy, but it looks like production models did not get this treatment. I'm hoping one can still use a real Abloy t-handle cylinder, I'll check with them on this.

I don't know if that bike lock is for sale yet, it was a Kickstarter campaign, but I wonder how it would compare to traditional U locks and auxiliary cable locks. oh, looks like they have a site where you can buy: http://tigrlock.com/

prototype review video:


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Re: Locking a bicycle that is worth less than $1000 USD

Postby cledry » 22 Jun 2013 23:25

That last lock would be elegant if you built a frame that stowed the bow internally. For example the top tube could be made oversize and notches made around the downtube so the bow could be slid into the frame. The lock cylinder could also probably be incorporated somewhere in the frame.
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Re: Locking a bicycle that is worth less than $1000 USD

Postby Vin0bim » 26 Jun 2013 17:25

ARF-GEF wrote:I am no expert on kriptonite, it's not on sale here, but what I heard is that there are some very good products they make and some bad products as well...
(That is unfortunately true to many most companies.)
But I think the ones they offer with the insurance-thing should be good. At least they trust in it and they would find out if one model is bad due to the high number of claims.

But as I said I can only repeat hearsay about Kriptonite and someone should chirp with actual fact based experience.


Check the small print. Insurance is normally valid only if the lock is forced,chopped up or sawn open- not picked
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Re: Locking a bicycle that is worth less than $1000 USD

Postby cledry » 26 Jun 2013 19:00

Vin0bim wrote:
ARF-GEF wrote:I am no expert on kriptonite, it's not on sale here, but what I heard is that there are some very good products they make and some bad products as well...
(That is unfortunately true to many most companies.)
But I think the ones they offer with the insurance-thing should be good. At least they trust in it and they would find out if one model is bad due to the high number of claims.

But as I said I can only repeat hearsay about Kriptonite and someone should chirp with actual fact based experience.


Check the small print. Insurance is normally valid only if the lock is forced,chopped up or sawn open- not picked


What would happen if you couldn't produce a forced lock? For example the thief takes the bicycle and the lock?
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Re: Locking a bicycle that is worth less than $1000 USD

Postby Evan » 26 Jun 2013 19:31

cledry wrote:What would happen if you couldn't produce a forced lock? For example the thief takes the bicycle and the lock?


The victim would probably have to end up doing a lot of leg work quickly searching out CCTV footage from buildings around the area where the bike was stolen from hoping that there is some video of someone other than the owner of the bike wheeling it away, hopefully dragging the cut end of a chain down the sidewalk or street to convince the insurance company...

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Re: Locking a bicycle that is worth less than $1000 USD

Postby HerrMannelig » 30 Jun 2013 13:27

Locking my new, not expensive but important for transportation, bike was what got me into locks recently.

If I had to take my bike to an area with a higher risk, I get locks which ensured that the frame is secured against at least 30" bolt cutters, and that the wheels are secured with a 3/8" or more braided steel cable (this can be cut without much difficulty, but realistically, it does not seem thieves go through that trouble for wheels). I would ensure my saddle cannot be removed a wrench or hex key or through a quick release and that the saddle is not worth a lot.

For maximum security, I would use two Kryptonite u-locks (New York Lock Standard or better), one for the rear wheel and frame and one for the front wheel.

Steel cables can be cut easily, although a proper braided steel cable (many are twisted, not braided) is harder to cut with something which cannot cut the entire cable at once. Both are easily cut with a hacksaw, and thicker cables are the solution to that.

For Kryptonite's insurance, that is for the lock, not the bike, so they require proof that a bike was stolen (police report copy) and that the lock failed. One can insure a bike against theft otherwise and I recommend that.

EDIT: Kryptonite's insurance is for the bike, but it is to show confidence in the lock. It is not general bike insurance, which is why the lock is at the centre of attention to collect from them.
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Re: Locking a bicycle that is worth less than $1000 USD

Postby YouLuckyFox » 30 Jun 2013 18:37

Maybe_Ra wrote:My main questions are these:
Just how secure should I feel if I'm using these newer Kryptonite U-locks as my primary security?


I think you have a very formidable set up. Especially locking the frame as well, as I do not agree with Sheldon Brown's statement about the unlikelihood or time elapse before bypass of a rear wheel attack http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9fLtdZyX-A. I have been able to secure through the rear wheel and around post and triangle with one lock. I have never bothered to secure the front wheel, simply because I do not like to attract too much attention to my bike or have too much to carry (in the situation I was in I had a lot of gear to worry about and had to economize.) It is often said, but holds true that advertising security can be the cause of attempts to compromise it! Though many of the recommendations made have been very good, I doubt that any of what has been suggested would be better than your current set up. The only thing I would think to recommend is maybe locking skewers, but as you said you use your quick release quite frequently, which is understandable. As a side-note. I have used my quick release to take off my seat quite often: when I saw street sweeper bristles or wiper blades on the road, I would store the bristles or wiper inserts in the seat post :P .


Maybe_Ra wrote:Would it be worth my time to purchase a new set-up, or to just keep doing my routine?

I would stay with the routine you have. As it stands I think you are doing very well. Kryptonite locks are very good. Have you considered registering with Bike Shepherd, bytheway?

Maybe_Ra wrote:What lock/lock-chain combination would you suggest? It does me no good to have an amazing lock if the chain is crap.


Here is my personal set up, notice it is less secure than yours but I have either been very lucky or adequately secure in high-theft areas:

I favor the Kryptonite U-style lock. I've always had good luck with these, and I can strap them to my bicycle's book rack for ease of transit. I've had to lock my bike down in some very rough areas (pretty nasty areas of Jacksonville-to-Gaineville, FL) for more than 5 hours on end almost daily over a period of more than a year and have never had an attempt made on my bike (pretty good but 2-yr-old Trek bike--but I must admit I try to dress my bike down so it doesn't look like what it's worth.) It might also bear mention that I have known many people who had their bikes stolen in the same areas as me that used either a cable, unshrouded padlock, or chain.

Also, I am really not that concerned about how long it takes to compromise as much as whether it withstands common-sense methods and most known-methods. The sad truth is that a good thief will not usually flee when questioned but try to gain benefit of the doubt from observers and just keep going:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v-af2PaRqOo
Also, not all U-locks will withstand a cutting attack, fortunately the Kryptonite has a good track record for this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QYUf4h0Lv_8
I find the following links to be helpful when considering how to better secure a bicycle:
http://news.ufl.edu/2011/04/12/bike-thefts/
http://www.bicyclesource.com/choosing_bike_lock
http://www.bikeshepherd.org/bike-security.html
http://www.mit.edu/afs/athena/activity/m/mitbug/techinfo/bug.theft
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Re: Locking a bicycle that is worth less than $1000 USD

Postby GWiens2001 » 30 Jun 2013 20:17

This should about do it...

Image

From cheezburger.com. Sorry guys, I could not resist. :mrgreen:

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Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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Re: Locking a bicycle that is worth less than $1000 USD

Postby YouLuckyFox » 30 Jun 2013 20:21

^
:lol:
So good!
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Re: Locking a bicycle that is worth less than $1000 USD

Postby dicey » 4 Jul 2013 10:35

Hey guys,

Nice topic you started here and thanks for linking one of my videos but there is another one which is even better :)

[youtube][/youtube]

I will be doing review videos on the Pragmasis chains from securityforbikes.com very soon. Their chains are on the same level then the ones from Almax and also made in Britain. The Abus chains are made in China and the welding is not as smooth nor as good as the welding on the Almax or the Pragmasis chain. Also the hardening is not as good. I will be presenting the following Pragmasis chains:

19mm Chain + Squire SS65CS Grade 6 padlock closed shackle (Motorbike)
16mm Chain + Squire SS65CS Grade 6 padlock closed shackle(Motorbike)
13mm Chain + Squire SS50CS Grade 4 padlock closed shackle (bicycle)
11mm Chain + Squire SS50CS Grade 4 padlock closed shackle (bicycle)

The Squire Padlock features a 6 pin core from Mauer with a special magnetic anti bump pin and a Yale Y2 keyway. Of course you can pick it but without training on the padlock a blind pick will probably take some time. A successfull picking attempt of this padlock by a thief is not known nor recorded yet.

I will also present the Ground Anchor and the Antipinchpin from Pragmasis along with other products. Very good company with a most friendly owner!

Adrian - Security Elements
My name is Adrian Weber and I am a private Security Adviser with a CFPA certificate in Security and Security Management.

Adrian Weber - Security Elements YT Channel:
http://www.youtube.com/user/diceman1367?feature=mhee
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Re: Locking a bicycle that is worth less than $1000 USD

Postby Wizer » 5 Jul 2013 7:04

A sturdy chain is essential:
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:)
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