Locking a bicycle that is worth less than $1000 USD

[Maybe_Ra]

Actual monetary worth of the bike is actually negligible, but I figured the topic would be accurate for other readers. The worth of the bike is weighed through my dependence on it. It is all I have, and I put hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of miles on it. I have exchanged and upgraded several parts, and have no intention to replace it with a motorized vehicle anytime soon. I am VERY dependent on this pedal machine.

I am located in Northern California. Places I have parked and locked in the last year? An hour and a half north of Reno NV, San Francisco, Oakland, Berkeley, Davis, and most locking is done in the Greater Sacramento area. My bike goes places. For those unfamiliar, most of those cities are particularly notorious for bike theft. About three and a half of those cities are college towns.

I am currently using the Sheldon Brown locking technique in combination with locking the frame and the front tire. The locks I am using are a Kyrptonite Series 2 (standard 4inX9in), a Kryptonite Evolution (mini-lock), and a Kryponite 4-foot cable to secure my panniers, helmet, and rack. I may ride a road bike, but I'm no "weight weenie". Niether of those Kryptonite U-locks are tubular keyed, btw.

I am less concerned with picking as I am with brute force. Though I don't want to give myself the short end of the stick in defense of picking, the OVERWHELMING majority of bike thefts are a result of brute force. I would like to keep the budget under $200, but locks can be used on any bike and don't stop there. Before I parked the motorcycle for good, I often used a lock and cable to secure my riding gear. Weight of the lock/lock-chain is an important factor. I'd really rather not carry twelve extra pounds of lock.

My main questions are these:
Just how secure should I feel if I'm using these newer Kryptonite U-locks as my primary security?
Would it be worth my time to purchase a new set-up, or to just keep doing my routine?
What lock/lock-chain combination would you suggest? It does me no good to have an amazing lock if the chain is crap.
Maybe I've missed something. I will try to update as things come to mind.

As a note, a cable is not an option to lock anything other than accessories like a saddlebag or helmet. Below is a link that references bike theft, and gives a good explanation of any bicycle jargony-buzzword I've mentioned .

http://www.sfbike.org/?theft_locking

[Squelchtone]

As a note, a cable is not an option to lock anything other than accessories like a saddlebag or helmet.

May I ask why not? I was going to recommend an ABUS cable, which I use. They make them in various lengths to go around the frame and through both tires and still have room to go around a post or bike rack, and have big eyelets for big shackle padlocks. The padlock I use is an Abloy PL350 (bought on ebay for $50, new is very pricey), your typical or even professional bike thief wouldn't even put a scratch it in.

hth
Squelchtone

Link: 10mm, 6.5 feet long http://www.abus.com/eng/Mobile-Security ... t%29/11167

[femurat]

Great video Maybe_Ra. I find very clever securing the bike seat with a bike transmission chain

Hey Squelchy, about your steel cable, is 10 mm the total diameter (steel cable + rubber cover) or is the diameter of the steel cable, and then there's some clear rubber or silicon or whatever around it, making it more than 10 mm?

Cheers

[Squelchtone]

Great video Maybe_Ra. I find very clever securing the bike seat with a bike transmission chain

Hey Squelchy, about your steel cable, is 10 mm the total diameter (steel cable + rubber cover) or is the diameter of the steel cable, and then there's some clear rubber or silicon or whatever around it, making it more than 10 mm?

Cheers

Hi femurat,

From memory it is more than 10mm if you include the silicone jacket. I will have to measure and get back to you.

Squelchtone

[femurat]

Thanks for letting us know. I ask because if the whole thing is 10 mm, I've seen many cut on the road. If the steel cable itself is 10 mm, it may have some chances to withstand a desperate with an hacksaw.

Cheers

[Squelchtone]

Thanks for letting us know. I ask because if the whole thing is 10 mm, I've seen many cut on the road. If the steel cable itself is 10 mm, it may have some chances to withstand a desperate with an hacksaw.

Cheers

Would a cable typically be cut with crops or a hacksaw? I'm almost tempted to cut mine and see how long or short it takes. It was only $20 dollars and would make for a good youtube product review video. I honestly lock up my bike if I'm inside a store for an hour, I have never locked it outside in a busy city for 24 hours, but it would be interesting to set up a security camera near a bike secured somewhere in NYC to see HOW MANY people try to steal it or parts from it in a 24 hour period.

Squelchtone

[femurat]

I see many small cables cut with wire cutters or bolt croppers, and some bigger ones with the hacksaw teeth marks.

The security camera could be an interesting project, unless you end up with the bike untouched and without the cam

Cheers

[ARF-GEF]

the OVERWHELMING majority of bike thefts are a result of brute force.

That is true.

Would a cable typically be cut with crops or a hacksaw?

Here they usually use a bolt cropper (is it the right name?)
Though they are around 10 inches long you can hide it in a big sleeved coat so it's not as oblivious as it seems.

would make for a good youtube product review video

It would! Sou should also try an angle grinder and that tool above
I didn't realise you had a YT channel too SQ

you end up with the bike untouched and without the cam

LOL


So back to bike locks:

What do you guys think of this:
http://www.abus.com/eng/Mobile-Security/Bike-safety-and-security/Locks/Folding-locks/Bordo-Big-6000
Or the higher security version:
http://www.abus.com/eng/Mobile-Security/Bike-safety-and-security/Locks/Folding-locks/Bordo-Granit-X-Plus-6500

I think they both are decent locks. The 6500 is much more pick resistant and some what stronger too.
Since most criminals won't pick it's up to you to decide whether the price difference is worth the smaller extra strength and major extra pick security to you.

They come with their neat little pack so you can store it on you bike without hassle when not in use.

PS.: 'Sheldon Brown' Lock Technique looks really ingenious!

[Maybe_Ra]

A cable should never, ever be used as the sole method to lock a bicycle because it is not designed to be used that way. Bike cables with looped ends are designed to be used with a U-lock (or equivalent) being the primary workhorse. Anyone with a hacksaw or (big or little) bolt cutters can slice though a cable, and will. I see it everyday at the university and junior college. Even if the padlock securing cable is the best on the market, that wouldn't be unlike placing a top of the line set of locks on a door that has a cardboard core. My Kryptonite cable is also 10mm, though I don't have a comparison of quality Abus v. Krypto. in the world of cables.

The bike chain inside an old inner tube is FANTASTIC for securing saddles. Best if the seat stay is not a quick release. Saddles aren't cheap. If I could fit my cable through the rails of mine in addition to the drivechain method, I sure as hell would. My saddle was worth the cost. Comfort for my needs isn't cheap.

I have no shame in going overkill. The last thing I want is to be stranded (maybe hundreds of) miles from home, and/or need to build a bike all over again. I may have strong words about securing bicycles, but I still have yet to lose one in the almost 5 years I've lived here. I moved from a much smaller city in the midwest. I've created this post because as I've learned more about lockpicking, I've come to seriously question whether I'm over confident. I use methods recommended by bicycle enthusiasts, but hadn't thought to talk to a lock enthusiast!

Also, for your viewing pleasure, someone did lock and film a bike in NYC. It takes a surprising amount of time for it to piece away, but it looks like a Kryptonite chain and Kryponite Fahgettaboudit U-lock is holding down a bike that isn't really worth a ton.

http://youtu.be/NZcXF10Ir9Q

----
I just finished typing the above after ARF-GEF had replied, so I'll leave it there and continue here.

I've always heard bolt cutter, but I wouldn't doubt dialectal differences. Bolt cropper sounds just fine. Any size bolt cutter can be tossed into a gym bag with some clothes and be concealed. Both bolt cutters and hacksaws are common tools here. Power tools don't appear to be as common, but my buddy lost an his fully restored bone stock Hodaka Super Rat to a power tool. Okay, that's a collector's motorcycle, but hey! There are more expensive bicycles out there.

I came across that folding lock as I was looking up pricing on the Abus cable. I've never seen it before, and am very intrigued. I would really like to check that design out. It's uniqueness alone may cause a thief to think twice sheerly out of confusion. Most bike theft is opportunistic, after all. If someone REALLY wants your bike, it all they'll get it.

[Squelchtone]

I use hose clamps on my quick releases to slow down someone from just taking my tires or even taking the nuts and axle posts (not sure what the real name is for this part) valdalism and pranks are just are bad as losing your entire bike.

[averagejoe]

If you really dont want your bike being taken....

http://www.almax-security-chains.co.uk/index.asp?pg=29

[ARF-GEF]

Yeah but who wants to take like 25 Kg extra weight with them everywhere you bike

[Maybe_Ra]

Haha! I'm fairly certain that Almax chain weighs more than my bike. Though, when my motorcycle hits the road again I'll keep it in mind.

I see a lot of people use hose clamps to secure their quick releases, but that never made sense to me. It adds unnecessary weight and defeats the purpose of quick release. If a cyclist is not going to use the quick release, then why not swap with hex nut skewers? (Skewer is the right term) I do use my quick releases quite a bit, so securing them with clamps wouldn't be very good.

I'm still very curious if I should stay confident in the Kryptonite locks' ability. I AM less concerned with picking, but Kryptonite has had a history with their old tubular locks and bic pens. I've yet to find some claim of a theft by picking for the new style, so I'm still happy.

[ARF-GEF]

I am no expert on kriptonite, it's not on sale here, but what I heard is that there are some very good products they make and some bad products as well...
(That is unfortunately true to many most companies.)
But I think the ones they offer with the insurance-thing should be good. At least they trust in it and they would find out if one model is bad due to the high number of claims.

But as I said I can only repeat hearsay about Kriptonite and someone should chirp with actual fact based experience.

[cledry]

I use the Abus Bordo Granit and also a smaller cable that I can loop through wheels and saddle. I really wanted to use the Atomic locks for my wheels and saddle but they are very costly. I am currently working on some special wheel locks for my new build which is almost completed. I won't post details of the locking system for the wheels on the open forum but might share with members who I trust.

Here's the latest build. A 1952 Wearwell. Everything but the frame and fork and head badge is new and of good quality but designed to look old.

Right click and view image if the front wheel is cut in half.