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My Handcuff collection

Once an April Fools joke, now a popular addition to the forum, post your handcuff related threads here.

Re: My Handcuff collection

Postby greengrowlocks » 11 May 2017 17:24

Awesome thread! Thanks for posting. I got my first pair of S&W 100s a few weeks ago. After seeing your post I'm now interested in getting pair of 104s to pick at. Looks like much more of a challenge to open.

GGL
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Re: My Handcuff collection

Postby nite0wl » 11 May 2017 19:53

greengrowlocks wrote:Awesome thread! Thanks for posting. I got my first pair of S&W 100s a few weeks ago. After seeing your post I'm now interested in getting pair of 104s to pick at. Looks like much more of a challenge to open.

GGL

The S&W 104 is quite tricky to pick, I have managed to pick the double lock bar successfully but so far a means of effectively holding open the ratchet pawl has eluded me.
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Re: My Handcuff collection

Postby nite0wl » 27 May 2017 21:44

New arrivals:

First, the recent additions to my collection.
A set of skeletonized Hiatt Speedcuffs retired from UK police service:
Image
These were made in the old factory in England before BAE/Safariland moved production to the US. Notice that they reused the faceplates from the Hiatt model 2010 chain cuffs, likely as a cost saving measure. The four large holes in the center bar are where the screws and posts for the plastic shell would pass through.

When Hiatt production was moved to the US, a group of former Hiatt employees took over the old factory and equipment and formed TCH (Total Control Handcuffs) where they continue to produce copies of the old Hiatt designs, mostly for sale to UK law enforcement. This is their copy of the Speedcuff, the TCH 480:
Image
Image
As you can see, they didn't change much aside from the shape of the grip relief on the plastic shell.

The final set of new cuffs today is a current production Hiatt UL-1-H folding rigid handcuff.
Image
The hole in the middle is for a standard handcuff hey to release the pair of locking bolts and allow the handcuffs to fold when not in use.
Image
Once you have started folding both sides of the cuff in and have cleared the bolt release you can remove the key.
Image
When folded they are quite thick but I suppose they are slightly more compact to carry on a belt than the fully rigid Speedcuffs, also the folding mechanism allows you to do a very satisfying (and hopefully intimidating to the perp) flip presentation as long as the hinges are well oiled.
Image

The only new accessory to arrive recently is a set of Zak Tools' "Handcuff Helpers". I have never seen them in use aside from a demonstration by some handcuff collectors at The Last HOPE several years ago. Their purpose is to allow a standard set of handcuffs to be fitted to people with smaller wrists (such as juveniles), likely in post arrest processing, court, and correctional environments as these are too fiddly to be quickly applied during an actual arrest. They come with a small ziplock like pouch with instructions printed on them.
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And here they are out of the storage pouch with one mounted on a pair of S&W 100P-1 cuffs.
Image
I tried fitting them to several of the more common handcuffs in my collection and they seem to be finicky about the exact shape of the ratchet arm, they fit S&W 100 and 300 series just fine but are otherwise hit and miss.
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Re: My Handcuff collection

Postby nite0wl » 27 May 2017 22:26

Some metal working and rough cutaways:
Having a lot of time around the house lately has given me time to do some metal working, the results for the most part are not pretty but they are functional.

After practicing on one of a job lot of suspiciously cheap 3rd hand S&W 100's I turned my attention to the cutaway S&W 104 as my plans to have a plexiglass cover plate were not working out.
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The result is a little rough in places but does allow people to see exactly how the keyhole bushing forms a horizontal ward in the keyway.
Image
In retrospect, I wish I had either left a little more of the faceplate covering the pawl, as it now has a tendency to rise away from the back plate when the ratchet is worked since the model 104 does not employ a hinge pin, just two stamped posts and the spring/double lock bar to keep the pawl in place.

A friend in the UK recently stumbled upon a very lucky find of some vintage Hiatt handcuffs while helping clear out a decommissioned police station. He very graciously offered me a pair since he knows I am a collector and so I should have a set of Hiatt 1960 handcuffs to add to the collection. The Hiatt 1960 has an important place in the history of restraints in the UK. Specifically, it was not only Hiatt's first non-Darby type design but it was also the model that got the police services of the UK to acquainted with modern handcuff designs. In addition to its place in history, the Hiatt model 1960 has another distinction which is the rather unique design of the key.
The key for the model 1960 is essentially just a hollow tube with a small notch in the side at one end and an oval ring shaped bow on the other. Due to their age and rarity finding copies of the key is essentially impossible without buying another set of cuffs at collector prices. To address the problem I had my friend take some measurements of the keys and I was able to work out a cheap and simple way to make what should be working keys.
Image
This is simply a length of 1/4 inch brass tube from a hobby shop and a small washer. The brass tube is cut to length then notches are cut in each end (one carefully cut to match the notch on the original key, a pair on the opposite end to help fit the washer) with a Dremel tool, rough edges are filed down by hand, some JB Weld is applied to the inside of the tube at the handle end, the washer inserted into the cuts, and finally the end of the tube is crimped onto the washer using a small table vise and vise grip pliers. Overall, I spent about $6 on materials which should provide 9 or so keys. When the cuffs arrive, these should operate them without trouble. We shall see in a week or two.
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Re: My Handcuff collection

Postby nite0wl » 6 Jun 2017 14:12

The Hiatt model 1960 arrived late last week, just in time to be added to a demonstration I was running.

Here is a full view of cuffs:
Image
A few things stand out about these. First is the shape of the bodies of the handcuffs, they are very asymmetrical and the pivot for the ratchet arm is much more 'off center' than a contemporary US design. Then there is the chain and swivel design, the links on the body are semi fixed and full rotation is achieved by a single swivel in the center of the chain, this is a legacy of 19th century designs. The final outward point of interest is the key and keyway, the key has no flag, gust a simple notch cut into the tip, the keyway is similarly round, this is due to the unusual design of the lockwork which we will look at later.
Before we move on to the inner workings, the keen eyed will have noticed that some of the scratches in the finish are actually light hand engravings. The Hiatt 1960 was not only Hiatt's first 'modern' swing-through design (despite having produced a copy of one of Peerless' Adams' patent designs under license before World War 2), this model was also the first modern handcuff design adopted by any of the UK police services. While it did have some drawbacks and proved less than popular with the constabulary it was sufficient to convince the Home Office to move away from the traditional Darby and Tower type handcuffs that the Police forces of the UK had been using for the previous several centuries. Since these were police issue (these were in fact discovered a few weeks ago by a friend hired to clean out a decommissioned police station where they had sat, long forgotten, in a desk drawer). The engraved marks include what appears to be the name "Gibs" along with several constables' ID numbers ("777" is most clear in the image but "765" and "PC" are also visible), this was and is common practice for police handcuffs in the UK where the constable's ID number and or name are engraved on the handcuffs issued to them (usually on the collector's market these are ground off along with any serial numbers or other identifying marks when they are formally retired from Home Office service).

Now on to the mechanical elements that makes these a rather unique design in the world of handcuffs.
First, a close up view of the keyhole:
Image
As can be seen inside the keyhole, there is the center post which rotates and is held in place by a coil spring, and in the lower left of the keyhole is the tab which is engaged by the notch on the tip of the key. Due to the design of the post, it has a tendency to tip or move off-center which can be an impediment to inserting the key.
Image
Here we have a view of the pawls, while it is unusual at the time these were made these actually have a dual pawl mechanism, which is unfortunately has fewer teeth than more conventional designs of the time but also provide less tamper resistance than traditional multi-pawl designs. for reasons we shall see in the next image. Note that these photos were taken immediately upon receiving the cuffs so the dirt and accumulated debris is the state they were found in.

The final image is not mine but the work of another handcuff collector who had enough model 1960s to cut one open.
Image
Here we can now see the full internal mechanism and how the key operates the locking pawls. The pawls are actually plates which surround the cam and key post. The plates are spring biased by the folded leaf spring visible near the bottom. In this case when the cam is turned to the 2 o'clock position the cuffs are single locked and the pawl plates are able to retract as the ratchet arm is swung through while the spring is able to push them into position for the teeth of the ratchet to engage. If the cam is turned towards the 3 o'clock position the plates are pushed out of the locking position to allow the cuffs to open, similarly if the cam is rotated towards the 12 o'clock position the cam holds the pawl plates in the locked position to achieve a 'double locked' state.
This cutaway also allows us to see more clearly the vulnerabilities and drawbacks of this design. First, while no handcuff design offers a particularly good means of clearing the internals of dirt, debris, and rust, the sliding plate design offers even less means of cleaning. Second, the design of the key and cam mechanism makes quick and reliable insertion and activation of the key quite difficult, especially as wear on the base plate of the cam becomes more pronounced. Finally, because the cam which would normally be formed by the flag of the key is, in this case fixed inside the handcuff, any number of small stiff objects can be inserted into the keyway and used to manipulate the cam into the open position (or accidentally into the double lock position).
The manipulation vulnerability was addressed by Hiatt's follow on design, the 1970 which bore much more resemblance to the common Peerless and Harold Wesson designs and used a key similar to the modern design.
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Re: My Handcuff collection

Postby nite0wl » 6 Jun 2017 14:15

nite0wl wrote:A friend in the UK recently stumbled upon a very lucky find of some vintage Hiatt handcuffs while helping clear out a decommissioned police station. He very graciously offered me a pair since he knows I am a collector and so I should have a set of Hiatt 1960 handcuffs to add to the collection. The Hiatt 1960 has an important place in the history of restraints in the UK. Specifically, it was not only Hiatt's first non-Darby type design but it was also the model that got the police services of the UK to acquainted with modern handcuff designs. In addition to its place in history, the Hiatt model 1960 has another distinction which is the rather unique design of the key.
The key for the model 1960 is essentially just a hollow tube with a small notch in the side at one end and an oval ring shaped bow on the other. Due to their age and rarity finding copies of the key is essentially impossible without buying another set of cuffs at collector prices. To address the problem I had my friend take some measurements of the keys and I was able to work out a cheap and simple way to make what should be working keys.
Image
This is simply a length of 1/4 inch brass tube from a hobby shop and a small washer. The brass tube is cut to length then notches are cut in each end (one carefully cut to match the notch on the original key, a pair on the opposite end to help fit the washer) with a Dremel tool, rough edges are filed down by hand, some JB Weld is applied to the inside of the tube at the handle end, the washer inserted into the cuts, and finally the end of the tube is crimped onto the washer using a small table vise and vise grip pliers. Overall, I spent about $6 on materials which should provide 9 or so keys. When the cuffs arrive, these should operate them without trouble. We shall see in a week or two.


Just wanted to add that the homebrew keys worked perfectly when tested, results which would be much more difficult to obtain on a more complex design.
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Re: My Handcuff collection

Postby nite0wl » 1 Jul 2017 10:44

While I haven't gotten around to photographing them properly yet I got several new Yuil handcuffs to add to my collection and made a somewhat distressing discovery. It seems that Yuil has made some changes to their designs (first brought to my attention by AspiringLockpicker), seemingly to move away from the S&W style double lock system they had been employing to a new system that works better with their warding plate. Unfortunately, this change seems to have also removed the warding from the keyway so even though they are still supplied with Yuil's split flag keys these latest versions can be opened by standard handcuff keys (Yuil does use a wider center post than most US brands so not all US standard keys will fit). While I cannot be sure if this is the case for all of Yuil's handcuffs or just the ones they export, every sample I have with the new double lock has this same issue.

In the image below the aluminum M-11 on the left has the S&W style double lock and is very selective about what keys it will accept, the warding plate enforces the use of split flag keys, on the right is my brand new nickle plated steel M-11-1 with the new double lock design (my supplier only got them in stock less than a month ago), while the center post is still wide enough to stop some standard keys (such as Peerless and ASP) from entering the keyway the warding plate does not enforce the use of split tip keys and any suitably sized standard handcuff keys will operate the cuffs.
Image
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