MASTER PADLOCK NO.532

[illusion]

Heya Squelchtone.

I don't mean to seem rude, but did you get photos of that lock in the end?

I guess it's kinda hit-or-mis because it is currently in use...

[Squelchtone]

Heya Squelchtone.

I don't mean to seem rude, but did you get photos of that lock in the end?

I guess it's kinda hit-or-mis because it is currently in use...

You Birts are so well mannered and polite. You're not being rude at all! =)

In fact, thank you for reminding me to take that photo. I'm at work till midnight so it will be dark out there, but tomorrow morning I will walk down the tracks and take that picture. look for it in 12 hours.

=)

Squelchtone

[Squelchtone]

Hi illusion,

After a long hump in country, and back, here's the American Lock H10.

Keyway looking down:



back of lock with model number:



front of lock with company logo, that rust can't be good for the shackle...



This thing was hauling donkey! I had to abort and get off the tracks:



anyone have a pic of the key to this kind of lock? Is it in fact a double sided wafer?

Squelchtone

[Prodigy]

When it comes to the security, spool, mushroom and the rest. I love them, it is an indicator that the lock is infact picked and yes the security pin has done its job.

This is what I do when I find the pis have been caught.

Using a 'HOOK' pick and keeping tension on, idividually apply lifting preassure to each of the pins one at a time.

When eventually you apply lifting preassure to the security pin you will feel the plug wanting to reset to the centre through the tension tool. This may be a very obvious both visual and feel. It can also be a very slight thing.

Important as well to be very observant to of the tension tool placement. This can also be misconstruded as the security pin pushing the plug back. Sometime the fulcrum point of the pick lifting is on the back of the tesnsion tool causing the same effect.

As I apply the lifting pressure I allow the plug to return to the centre by using both the pick lifting and the tension tool. What should happen is when the plug aligns the chambers of the plug and cylinder the security pin will be lifted to the shearline.

However, (there is always one of these) what may happen is other pins will fall back. This is painful but a also a good thing because now you know the location of the security pin and the picking order of the pin.

It just takes practice but I find the security pins an advantage.

[Bud Wiser]

I agree with Prodigy on this. I too prefer a lock with spool or security pins, gives me instant feed back on what's happening in the lock! Unlike crappy laminated master locks where nothing happens and you are completely in the dark as to what is happening.

[pistolpete]

i havent beeen on in a while but once when i was picking a "unpickable lock" that my friend picked up aat home depot for roughly 20.00 dollars, i racked it a few times i think with a king pink and i used this method over and over and checked each pin ... the problem was that the back pin was i think a spool or mushroom and i had to single pick that one first ... happiy picking

[illusion]

Oh, I hadn't noticed you'd posted those photos Squlechtone... I must have seemed a right idiot to you for not thanking you, sorry.

The keyway looks very open on that lock, shouldn't be too hard to pick I imagine.

Presuming it uses a double-sided wafer lock, I guess you could overlift it?

The problem with using the negative plug rotation you described Prodigy is when a serrated pin is encountered The pin really grips, and doesn't budge unless you reset all the pins, although on the positive side you now know where the setrrated pin is. I have a Ruko cylinder (cheers BUMP) that has a counter-milled plug, and double-spooled pins. The pins lock into the counter milling of the plug and to all intents and purpase appear very much so to be picked. The secret is intensely light tension on these locks, avoid them at all costs. The best technique to overlift the top pin and gently lower it until it meets the sheer-line - no security bottom pins in these locks.

[Bud Wiser]

I think you mean "Pick Resistant", and not "Unpickable". All locks will claim some level of pick resistance. And as long as they stay neatly wrapped in their original package they are even pick proof, until you open it up and pick it

[aiea]

"anyone have a pic of the key to this kind of lock?"

Never posted here before and not sure how to include a pic: It's an American AM1 or ILCO 1041C

See page 2 (actually the 4th page) of this Kaba ILCO Key Blank Directory:
http://www.kaba-ilco.com/key_systems/pd ... nder_1.pdf

Hope the link is okay. I couldn't find anything in the various rules pages that outlaw a link like this but I'm sure I'll find out shorty.

[Ray_Air]

ive been picking the #3 and #5 master lock in less than five seconds, so i bought a master lock #15 with 5 pins and what they say " over 9,000 key changes for maximum pick resistance" i ve been working on it for the last couple of hours and no luck lol!!! any suggestions??

Well.. the new No.3's are doing this.. they have an ABUS style bottom plate which forces you to pick in only 1 direction. Most cheaper Master padlocks can be picked open clockwise or counter(anti)clockwise. If you have any WD-40, try spraying lots of it into the lock.

I recently got a new No.3 with the silver plastic bumpers and 'commercial' wording. The inside felt so cheap, the springs and pins felt like they were about to fall out of the keyway, and it was a brand new lock.

The "even worse than before" tolerances may be causing you trouble.

Lube it up and rake with an L-rake, or a regular sized (non slimline) medium hook. light to medium tension.

Good Luck, and I take it your No.15 does have the silver/grey plastic on it?

Squelchtone

Master lock No.3's that say "commercial" on the bumper are still easy to pick/rake. The only improvements to that lock are stronger rivets and stronger shackles. Basically you cant take a chisel and a hammer and drive it through the shackle or laminated body anymore. We have some at work and I tested one.

[corey2444]

532 is one hell of a lock. Im almost sure the security pin on mine is the 4th back not the 2nd like Ive seen so many say. I was able to pick this twice in 1 hour. Doing searches to find a more efficient way to pick this has me all thrown off, now I cant pick this anymore.

How often do you get calls as a locksmith to pick these are tougher locks? sigh..

[corey2444]

532 is one hell of a lock. Im almost sure the security pin on mine is the 4th back not the 2nd like Ive seen so many say. I was able to pick this twice in 1 hour. Doing searches to find a more efficient way to pick this has me all thrown off, now I cant pick this anymore.

How often do you get calls as a locksmith to pick these are tougher locks? sigh..

Just picked again with an S pick with give and take tension. The first 2 times I did it with a hooked 1/2 diamond with give and take.[/quote]