Applying templates to hacksaw blades without a mess

[Havoc]

So I figured something out the other day, and figured that it might be my chance to actually contribute something!

I'm too lazy to go out and print out my templates on a laser printer, since my printer at home and at work are both ink jets. So the laser transfer is out for me, that and I don't own an iron. So for the last little while, I've been cutting and gluing. The problem has been that I have to work fast, as quenching the blades starts to wreck the transfer paper, and it's difficult to get a precise edge once the grinding wheel starts ripping the wet paper on the blade.

So I tried making stencils and using inks and spray paints, but it gets messy and difficult, and if the paint runs under the template, then you have to scrape the excess off by hand, and so on.

So I tried something simple... I laid my template out on the blade, which can be tacked down with just the tiniest bit of glue, and then I carefully shaded the part I wanted to grind off with a pencil!

I originally tried tracing it out, but I messed up, and found it was kind of difficult to get the graphite off completely. So if you're careful, you can outline your picks with a heavy layer of graphite, and it'll stay much better than a glue on.

The best part, is that when you grind them down, the wheel isn't taking chunks out of your outline, and the graphite is totally unaffected by the water! So you're free to work comfortably and at your own pace to get the picks just right, quenching as often as you need.

I know this is going to help someone, because it helped me out a lot!

[notme76]

i tried gluing the templates to the blade and then grinding but the heat from the grinder and the cooling water affect the glue especially at the tips where the heat builds up at a small space... im thinking ur stencil would work great, only problem is when im grinding sometimes the paint on the hacksaw blades peels back from the heat..if there was a way to get that offf first(its tough stuff) then trace on the pattern...some sort of chemical i'll have to experiment i guess

[freakshow]

Steel-wool pads? That's what I used to use. Sandpaper, too.

[ax0n]

That's pretty slick, actually. I've been grinding mine out freehand for years but have been looking to see if I can get some better performance from the various templates I've been seeing here recently.

Thanks!

[Havoc]

Glad to help!

And I'd say get a wire wheel for your grinder if you can... I really need to go pick one of those up sometime in the near future.

There's one on the side of each of our key-cutting machines, but not being a locksmith, I'm hesitant to use their tools for the amount of work I'm doing, even with their permission.

[maintenanceguy]

I've only made a few but I glued the templates down with contact cement. Applied to both the steel and the back of the template, allowed to tack for 5 min or so, and then pressed together.

I use a grinder and a cup of water and had no problem. Template stayed in place. I'm fairly aggressive with a grinder and the glue never failed.

[Jaakko]

Black permanent marker. Stays on steel and if the thickness is right, you can just draw one line and then grind/cut to the line.

[fredd3039]

Go to lowes or home depot and buy some 3M adhesive spray. Clean the surface of your blank with sand paper or nail polish remover then hold the can about 12 inches away and spray right to left or left to right quickly and allow the glue to dry until "tacky" or your finger just sticks to it. 3M type sprays give a more uniform surface and are more easy to control than contact cement in a jar.
Cut out your template and stick it to the glued surface.
If you find the template moving or peeling off then you are letting the pick get to hot while grinding.

A quick tip on sprays. If using 3M or Spray Paint always do a purge spray first to clear any bubbles or globs in the line. Nothing ruins your work like a big glob of paint or glue dripping from your pick surface. Hold the spray six inches to the left or right of your work surface and hold down the spray knob for 2 seconds to clear the lines then move left to right or right to left over the tools surface.

[bumber]

sounds like fredd does some auto painting...considering he calls them "lines" which implies a spray gun....could be wrong

I like to do templates with a sharpie...lets you do freehand stuff and never really wears off...comes off but not easily.

[fredd3039]

Actually I have never painted a car in my life. I am in the military and I have been making custom knives for years. I use a spray applied baked on acryllic on some of my tactical models. I learned the hard way once when a glob of the stuff shot out of the nozzle and landed right in the middle of the blade. I couldn't wipe it off and get the uniform look so I let it dry and re-sanded it on my grinder. A cabinet maker friend of mine told me about the purge technique and it has served me well ever since.

[vitti]

Here's my method, may not be the best but works for me.

1. Grind teeth off the blade (just makes removing paint easier as the teeth wont hang on whatever abrasive you use)

2. Heat the blade with a standard lighter. Doesn't get hot enough to alter the temper but will sort of cook the paint making it really easy to remove with a high grit sandpaper or scotchbrite pad or whatever. Just heat enough to discolor the paint, you're not aiming to get the metal to glow. Done properly the color of the metal once the paint is removed should not have changed (not blue or even yellow).

3. Clean the blade down to bare metal.

4. Coat the back of the template lightly with spray starch (for ironing).

5. Stick the template to the blade and position, making sure all edges are firmly pressed to the blade. Let dry about 5 minutes. (makes a nice water soluble, temporary, adhesive.)

6. Spray a light coat of spray paint and let it dry. I use yellow since it's easier to see, black will be hard to discern from the metal filings and a heavy coat will be more likely to peel under grinding heat. I use Krylon Fusion because I had some here, I'm sure others would do fine.

7. After paint dries, about 15 minutes, peel the template off. It will come off easily but if it sticks run it under water to remove the starch.

8. Grind, dremel, or file away.

If you quench frequently the paint will not flake or peel. I don't wear gloves when grinding so when it gets uncomfortably hot, quench. Your fingers will burn before the paint peels (though gloves would probably be safer but I need the feel of bare hands).