When it comes down to it there is nothing better than manual tools for your Lock pick Set, whether they be retail, homebrew, macgyver style. DIY'ers look here.
by toomush2drink » 28 Jun 2004 4:21
Oh forgot to mention once you picked all the bits back up you can decode it .........................or just buy a replacement.
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toomush2drink
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by plot » 28 Jun 2004 4:53
how would you get the bits in the proper position though? 
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plot
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by skold » 28 Jun 2004 5:07
i have seen that bit before and advise that if you use it, use protective eyewear... it would kinda hurt having pin shrapnel in your eye..  also quite funny
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by toomush2drink » 28 Jun 2004 7:27
Plot i was using subtle humour when i said about decoding it 
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toomush2drink
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by Guitar_J » 28 Jun 2004 7:35
in the F-B Wholesale catalog they send ya with the lessons it says this about this thing.. .I Think this is the same way monkeE suggested it works
"A rotary saw for cutting away the shoulder over the pins to allow tumblers to be removed and lock opened. Permanent, built-in pilot guides on center spindle. This cutter will cut brass or steel locks at low speed. Not recommended for guaranteed for over 1000rpm. We have cut open 50 locks, and this saw was still sharp. For standard 1137B keyway locks."
I wish the world was flat like the old days, and I could travel just by folding the map.
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by plot » 28 Jun 2004 12:54
toomush2drink wrote:Plot i was using subtle humour when i said about decoding it 
i know buddy 
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plot
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by Romstar » 29 Jun 2004 2:19
Guitar_J wrote:in the F-B Wholesale catalog they send ya with the lessons it says this about this thing.. .I Think this is the same way monkeE suggested it works
"A rotary saw for cutting away the shoulder over the pins to allow tumblers to be removed and lock opened. Permanent, built-in pilot guides on center spindle. This cutter will cut brass or steel locks at low speed. Not recommended for guaranteed for over 1000rpm. We have cut open 50 locks, and this saw was still sharp. For standard 1137B keyway locks."
, that's cool. I looked up the tubular saw in three different catalogues, and they all say the cutter is good for about three uses.
The speed is still recomended to be 1000 RPM or under, but certainly not going to last 50 locks.
Romstar
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Romstar
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by Exodus5000 » 2 Jul 2004 20:49
Everyone tells you that it takes far too long to pick this lock pin by pin becuase it resets ussually at every 45 degree angle, resulting in the need to pick it more than a few times. I recently purchased a few of these locks and use a modified allen wrench and a homemade poking pick to pick this lock. I can consistantly pick all 4 of the tubular locks I have in under 3 mins, maybe 5 if i get stuck. That doesn't seem too long to me, sure with the correct tool it'll probably only take 20 seconds, but why blow $100 or so for a few mins work?
I encourage everyone to become proficient at picking these locks pin by pin if you're interested.
PS: You also have to pick the lock back into its original position for the key to work again, which will take an additional 3-5 mins.
[deadlink]http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/6973/exodus5000ac5.jpg
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Exodus5000
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by Exodus5000 » 2 Jul 2004 20:51
Wow - site seems to be having some problems with posting, php errors and debugging. erm...
anyways sorry for the TRIPLE post...
[deadlink]http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/6973/exodus5000ac5.jpg
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by ggandalf » 18 Jul 2004 10:29
The saw pictured above does not touch the pins. The inner tube pushes them down and the saw cuts the outter hood that holds them in place. When the saw is removed, the pins fall out unscathed. You then have to pull out the bottom halves of the pins and springs that did not come out or are past the shear line. It is a very simple operation. The lock is destroyed.
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