When it comes down to it there is nothing better than manual tools for your Lock pick Set, whether they be retail, homebrew, macgyver style. DIY'ers look here.
by tjweaver84 » 14 Jul 2009 5:06
I have made a couple picks out of hacksaw blades but they end up covered in rust in a matter of a day or two with humidity we have here. I have tried different types of sand paper and rinsing with deionized water between grits and drying immediately. I don't think that is the issue though because it seems like everything I have that is made of stainless here rusts like crazy...tools, knives, fingernail clippers, everything. Does anyone have any ideas or product names that would help me inhibit this rust? I keep the window in my barracks closed and have the AC on. It also does this in the middle of winter with the heater going.
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tjweaver84
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by tjweaver84 » 14 Jul 2009 5:11
Oh and talking with some of the marines and master at arms out here they say they have the same problem with their weapons. If they don't clean them thoroughly a couple times a week even if they aren't used rust will start to set in. Is there really that much more salt in the air in Japan than in Norfolk? Oh and before anyone says anything yes lockpicking tools are illegal in Japan but I talked to the legal office here on base and they told me that since I am in the military and on base I can have them (since it is US property) I just can't have them in public.
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tjweaver84
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by unlisted » 14 Jul 2009 12:50
I would recommend finding a product called Fluid Film if at all possible. Its a really really good anti corossion spray- sortqa like WD-40- but this actually works. Only downside- it actually leaves a "film" wherever you spray it- so you would need to wipe it off. Stuff works amazing up in Northern Canada- where there is heavy corrosive salts on the road in winter. Its also used as a undercoating on heavy equipment. http://www.fluid-film.com/products/index.html No, I do not work for them- I'm just very experienced in trying to keep stuff rust free. WD-40 is total CRAP BTW.
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by subver » 14 Jul 2009 16:20
Perhaps you could even set up a dehumidifier in the room where your picks are stored? Not sure if that will help, but it's worth a shot..
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by tjweaver84 » 14 Jul 2009 18:10
Thanks unlisted I will have to try and get some fluid film. It looks like it would work great.
Subver if I had the room I would get a dehumidifier but the rooms in my building are way too small and have way too much furniture for the size. The only place I have the would fit one is the middle of the floor and that wouldn't go over well for the random inspections they do.
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by maintenanceguy » 14 Jul 2009 19:19
A rust converter might help. Not naval jelly, naval jelly is a rust remover.
Rust converter is tannic acid. It converts rust from iron oxide to tannic oxide. Tannic oxide is a black, hard material that bonds well to steel. The problem with rust is not that it forms. Aluminum oxide forms on bare aluminum almost immediately but forms a hard, protective film. The problem with rust is that it flakes away exposing more iron below to rust. Eventually this cycle causes pitting.
Rust converter prevents this because the tannic oxide will not flake.
It's black, its hard, and it lasts. But it only works if there's rust present. you can't use it on shiny steel.
We use this stuff a lot on rusted steel that we're going to paint.
-Ryan Maintenanceguy
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by bushd » 16 Jul 2009 11:27
If your picks are rusting then you should look at a different material. What the others have suggested will work but I'm not a fan of patching the problem. Stainless steel would work if you have some, they add chromium and some other things and I think you may be able to read up on how companies use magnesium rods as a ground so that the charge requiring rusting process doesn't occur. Create pick, add magnesium based substance around handle, plastidip and you're done. It may be a little more complicated then this but it certainly beats using tannic acid - the tannic acid may work but if you've ever eaten from a teflon coated pan and found black flakes in your food then you know even strong bonds give way.
Rawr.
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by tjweaver84 » 17 Jul 2009 7:30
I am using stainless steel and I am thinking that after I finish them that the humidity is getting the corrosion started before the protective oxide layer is formed on the newly exposed surface. I know that when Westinghouse builds the reactors for the carriers they acid dip everything to accelerate the formation of the protective layer, so removing the rust and a thorough cleaning and a rust prevention product should help with this since most prevention products have acid in them. I just remembered all this protective oxide layer stuff last night. I guess that 2 years of schooling the navy gave my wasn't a waste of time
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by r0b0t1 » 18 Jul 2009 0:09
Or if they're rusting you can clean them off and put on some tool-black. Epic stuff, that.
I can hax your door!
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by tjweaver84 » 18 Jul 2009 1:31
Picked up a corrsion cleaner but I don't remember the name. Pretty much I went to the exchange and for the one with the most oxalic acid in it so I will try that today and see how it works out for me.
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by tjweaver84 » 18 Jul 2009 1:39
I mean a cleaner and corrosion protector
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by LocksmithArmy » 19 Jul 2009 12:54
gun blue...
i havnt made picks yet but i am in the process of getting all the materials and my rust proof plan is using gun blue on them. they will be darker and wont shine but they wont rust.
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by tjweaver84 » 19 Jul 2009 17:43
I plan on trying gun blue when I get back stateside, but with guns being essentially illegal here it is kind of hard to come by. I am trying brasso and something else to see which one works better. I have sanded a few hacksaw blades to different finishes and have a control for each grit with no products on it and then the products on the other blades and I am going to see which ones rust the fastest. So far the ones with brasso are still shiny but the rest have already lost their shine (the ones with no product on them have started to rust already)
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tjweaver84
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by tjweaver84 » 22 Jul 2009 3:40
Okay so I checked the hacksaw blades today after 3 days. I think brasso it my solution. I used brasso, never dull and nothing on different finishes. Those were the only two options at the navy exchange. All the blades were rusted but with brasso I just had to touch it up with a rag for both a course and fine finish and most of the rust was gone. For never dull and the one with no products I hand to hit it with sandpaper to take the rust off. So if anyone needs help with rust prevention I would as of now recommend brasso or any other metal cleaner that contains acid (most specifically oxalic acid).
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