stepped torque/tension wrench ?

[glasskey]

seems that every time I start to try a new lock I get the wrong size tension wrench.
What I need is a stepped tension wrench, is ther such a thing commercially made or do I need to make one.
http://lockpick.texzn.com/torque.jpg

[digital_blue]

I would think you'd have a heck of a time keeping the wrench from slipping when using the "smallest" of the steps. If you end up getting/making one, let us know how it worked.

db

[Romstar]

Its funny you bring that up. I actually make a very similar wrench.

I have a new run of stuff coming out soon, so there will be pictures and all this time I think.

The pictures depend on getting my brother's camera for a few days.

Romstar

[omelet]

if you keep the angles very sharp it will help to keep it in the keyway. I have thought about this, and I think you would have to make the thinnest step longest of all to keep it in the keyway. The other steps can be quite short in comparison and would still function correctly. Obviously, this isn't a practical thing to do if you like to place the wrench at the top of the keyway...

[glasskey]

omelet, I will take that into advisement about the smallest width being the longest. I am going to make one tonight or tomorrow and see if it is worth a tinker..

[raimundo]

I have made stepped blade tensors before, but for the really small keyways, a tapered blade seems better. A taped blade cannot be stuck hard in a keyway, because any movement outward will fully unstick a tapered blade. I also make a tensor that is an attempt to widen the footprint of the blade beyond the width of the steel, this is made by gripping the tensor blade in two baby vise grips, with the edges of the blade in the grooves accross the bite of the pliers, and as much of the tensor blade as possible in the space between the two pliers, then a controlled bend will make a slight curve along the middle section of the tensor, this will make it take a 3 point grip in the keyway, the high parts that will touch the cyliner wall on the concave angle of the the bend should be sanded well to remove any roughness that will cut into that cylinder wall. This also makes a tensor that cannot be easily stuck in a keyway because the slightest movement outward will release it, but that said, the way to put one of these in a keyway is to put it as far in as possible without force, then pull back out a bit so that it remains loose and does not pressure bind the plug and cylinder. The actual bend of the blade is slight. and the increased footprint is not that much wider. for reallysmall keyways, you can even taper the tip of the blade and have a tensor that is more universal than most.

[NKT]

Just use some cheap wire out of windscreen wipers for your tensioners, then you can bend a new one or cut one to shape if you need to.

[Chucklz]

I once tried a tapered blade tensioner. Read raimundo's comments above. Making the edges sharp helps to keep it from slipping out, but can really destroy poorly made locks. I carry a bunch of tension tools made from various thickness and width street sweeper blades and windshield wiper inserts. I also recommend having a few short torque arm lengths in your arsenal. Nothing like being called by a friend for a lockout... but having door handle placement defeat your best efforts.