Cyrogenicaly frozen picks and tension wrenches

by **Romstar** » 29 Nov 2006 4:25

BazookaMedic wrote:You can not just trhow the object in raw liquid nitrogen, as it wil create MORE stress in the metal. It has to bee cooled in a dry chaber of twenty four hours then reheated over another 24 hours for it to work. So thats one thing for you to rember Romstar.

I am actually quite familiar with the process. I am just not sure it would make any difference to lock picks.

For some materials and applications, its a great idea, but for these tools, I don't think it would help any.

Romstar

by **BazookaMedic** » 30 Nov 2006 17:38

There is Only one way to find something out--Do it yourself.

I can see why it might not help though romstar, i still tink its worth trying though.

by **Romstar** » 30 Nov 2006 18:59

BazookaMedic wrote:There is Only one way to find something out--Do it yourself.

I can see why it might not help though romstar, i still tink its worth trying though.

Give me a while, and I will go visit my old professor and see what he can do. I know we had a machine like that in the lab, so it shouldn't be too hard and all.

Romstar

by **lunchb0x** » 1 Dec 2006 6:49

i have heard of something simmilar with brake discs, they were carbon disks heated in an oven and keep it at high tempritures for days, doing this hardened them without making them brittle.
but obviosly if you do this to picks they will melt
maybe oneday you could buy carbon fiber picks, stronger znd lighter than steel

by **BazookaMedic** » 1 Dec 2006 9:04

If Carbon Fiber has one tiny little imperfection or scratch, they will shatter.

by **Romstar** » 1 Dec 2006 15:52

Gee, I kept a set of picks in the furnace at 700 degrees for a few days, and they didn't melt.

That's extreme, as you don't need several days to harden or temper steel, but they quite simply don't melt.

The process is known as "soaking". In order for the entire piece to be properly heat treated, it must remain for a specific period of time at a certain temperature, then be cooled at a specific rate. The numbers are different for each type of steel, and the number of tools you are doing.

Additionally, hardening occurs at a much higher temperature, some as high as 1100+ degrees farenheight. After the steel has cooled from this temperature, it is placed in the furnace again for tempering. This occurs at temperatures ranging from 500 to 800 degrees. Again, depending on the material in question. After they are held at that temperature for a specific period of time, the cooling process begins.

Thickness, material, number of tools and desired characteristics are all factors, but they do NOT melt.

Romstar

by **BazookaMedic** » 1 Dec 2006 17:37

So Romstar how would you sugest going about your informational post?

by **BazookaMedic** » 1 Dec 2006 17:37

So Romstar how would you sugest going about your informational post?

by **lunchb0x** » 1 Dec 2006 17:40

BazookaMedic wrote:If Carbon Fiber has one tiny little imperfection or scratch, they will shatter.

no it wouldent, all it is is like a sheet of faberic held together with resinhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_fiber

by **lunchb0x** » 1 Dec 2006 17:43

lunchb0x wrote:
BazookaMedic wrote:If Carbon Fiber has one tiny little imperfection or scratch, they will shatter.

no it wouldent, all it is is like a sheet of faberic held together with resinhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_fiber

no it wouldent, all it is is like a sheet of faberic held together with resin

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_fiber

thats what i ment

by **BazookaMedic** » 1 Dec 2006 17:50

I suggest takeing a small peice of fabric, then cutting the top threads off and pulling. Carbon fibre is very overrated. I had a Part time job with a machinest and vanderbuilt university before he left there, I had plenty of an opportunity to play with carbon fiber. It really is not what many people sum it up to be. It is indeed VERY strong but like fishing poles, if they are scratched they will snap easily.

by **BazookaMedic** » 1 Dec 2006 17:54

Might I add, With out defects and no scratches, it is lghter and stronger than steel. Sometimes it is even used in armor systems.

by **Romstar** » 1 Dec 2006 18:04

BazookaMedic wrote:So Romstar how would you sugest going about your informational post?

You kinda lost me there.

Are you refering to the cryogenic tests?

If thats the case, I haven't been out to see my old professor yet so I don't know if I can even do any tests on these.

Romstar

by **lunchb0x** » 1 Dec 2006 18:04

BazookaMedic wrote:Might I add, With out defects and no scratches, it is lghter and stronger than steel. Sometimes it is even used in armor systems.

yes i know, i already said that,

remember the resin will obsorb into the fabric so even if it did scratch it will still hold together,
think about how many race cars use it, such as f1 cars which are mostly made from it, do you think they would be using it if there was a chance of it getting scratched and start falling apart?

by **BazookaMedic** » 2 Dec 2006 0:31

The only reason they use it in raceing applications is because it lightens the car so much. NOT for strength or any other reason. Might i suggest going out and doing the things i was so fortunate to do while working for that machineist to carbon fiber.

And romstar, I am talking about your Information about "proper tempering"

Cyrogenicaly frozen picks and tension wrenches

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