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MASTER PADLOCK NO.532

When it comes down to it there is nothing better than manual tools for your Lock pick Set, whether they be retail, homebrew, macgyver style. DIY'ers look here.

MASTER PADLOCK NO.532

Postby Ray_Air » 20 Aug 2006 0:29

I have started to practice raking open padlocks. I have had great success with 4-pin Master locks, but I have a 5-pin Master No.532 that is giving me some problems. I go to rake it and the plug starts to turn slightly like the lock has been picked, but it stops and the pins bind up. I shot some Screwloose in and raked it in less than 5 seconds, but I have never been able to duplicate those results. I am sure one of the pins is a security pin. Is there a different technique for raking locks with security pins?
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Postby Ray_Air » 20 Aug 2006 1:49

It has got to be a mushroom or some other kind of modified driver. For those more experienced, is there a special raking technique to use. I raked it once, but after about 30-40 minutes of trying to do it a second time I gave up.
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Postby Krypos » 20 Aug 2006 2:01

do a search for security pins. i am sure you wil find that this question has been answeres many many times over.
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Re: MASTER PADLOCK NO.532

Postby Squelchtone » 20 Aug 2006 3:29

Ray_Air wrote:I have started to practice raking open padlocks. I have had great success with 4-pin Master locks, but I have a 5-pin Master No.532 that is giving me some problems. I go to rake it and the plug starts to turn slightly like the lock has been picked, but it stops and the pins bind up. I shot some Screwloose in and raked it in less than 5 seconds, but I have never been able to duplicate those results. I am sure one of the pins is a security pin. Is there a different technique for raking locks with security pins?


Hi Ray_Air

Welcome to the 532 club! I remember not too long ago someone welcoming me into the 532 club. It's a very nice looking lock and the spring has a good feel to it. One thing I will suggest is that unlike a basic No.3 padlock, the 532, having a spool pin in the 2nd driver, you'll find more success single picking it. I use a medium hook and my personal best time is 4 seconds.

If you do want to continue raking, the only think I've found to work on the 532 is an S snake rake, but instead of raking it in and out like a maniac, which I guarantee will not open that lock, rock the S snake like a pendulum as you enter the keyway. Allow the s snake to roll over pin 2 until it false sets and the plug rotates from 12 to 1 o'clock. At the point, loosen up on the tension, rock the snake back and fourth over pin 2 as you slowly and gently put it in and out of the lock and the lock should open for you. Oh, this lock.. really light tension, and for me it helps to wabble the tension wrench as I insert the pick and work the lock.

The best way I can tell you if you are about to open the lock... pin 2 will give you the kind of feel like pressing on a ball bearing that's at the head of a Snap-On automotive ratchet, exact same feel to it.

here's some pictures..
Image

Image

Another thought.. I only opened this lock after I bought a slimline pick set, not sure what tools you're working with. What did you rake it open with before that one time?

you can do it! happy picking
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Postby Ray_Air » 20 Aug 2006 12:56

I raked it with an S rake using the pendulum technique you described. They were not slimline. Although I do have slimline's available in my Southord MPXS-20 set. I also have been trying to work the back pins first and rock the fronts. Thanks!
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Postby Squelchtone » 20 Aug 2006 15:30

Ray_Air wrote:I raked it with an S rake using the pendulum technique you described. They were not slimline. Although I do have slimline's available in my Southord MPXS-20 set. I also have been trying to work the back pins first and rock the fronts. Thanks!


I didnt mention the best part.. it doesnt seem to need any back pin work.. just focus on pin 2. It seems that the large hump on the s rake, closest to the handle, that hump needs to push on pin 2, while the tip of the s rake takes care of the deeper pins, but I don't specifically start at 5 and work my way out, I just go after pin 2. you know how an old steam train's piston works to turn the front wheels of the train? its that kind of oval motion I use going in and out of the lock. that's as verbose as I can get, I think you'll open it in no time!

Then again your key could be totally different.

here's a picture of my key.. lets compare.

Image

I'm off to work on my new American Lock Series 20 brass.. it's a tough one.
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Postby dmux » 20 Aug 2006 16:01

i just took one of those american 5200's apart and all 10 pins inside it were security pins, i was like wow, no fricken way. if i can ever pick that thing i would consider myself a master (well if i could do it over and over again and not just once by luck)
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Postby Ray_Air » 20 Aug 2006 20:33

I opened it again using a rocking motion. I also got it by raking it until it went to the 1 o'clock position and then lossed tension slightly and went to work on pin 2 with a small hook pick. I have an American Padlock SERIES H10 and it appears to have a double sided disc tumbler mechanism? I never tried to pick a double-sided keyway, but I bet those double-sided picks would work. The American H10 is a monster of a padlock. I looks tough as nails with the 7/16" alloy steel shackle and the solid steel round body.
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Postby Ray_Air » 24 Aug 2006 17:04

Thanks for the great advice. After a little practice this lock is now easy pickings. I also picked a No.140 easily. Now, I am working on a Brinks high security 6 pin lock with 5 spools and 5 serrated pins.
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532 open!

Postby picpower » 11 Sep 2006 23:25

Well after a week of slowly moving up through locks I am able to get the 532 open after a few mins of pin picking.

I have better luck on this lock starting in the front and working back.

Got it open with my self made picks!

Great sport...
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Postby DBS » 12 Sep 2006 13:53

I have an American Padlock SERIES H10 and it appears to have a double sided disc tumbler mechanism? I never tried to pick a double-sided keyway, but I bet those double-sided picks would work. The American H10 is a monster of a padlock. I looks tough as nails with the 7/16" alloy steel shackle and the solid steel round body.[/quote]

These fall VERY easily to double sided disk tumbler picks. Apply turning motion with the pick in the unlocking direction while gently wiggling it up and down in the keyway. If the lock doesn't give after 30 seconds or so flip the pick and try again. If it still doesn't give move to the next pick. These are basicly snake picks and a set of four or five picks combined with a little movement will cover all possible ranges for for a disc tumbler lock. The corrrect pick will usually open a good free working mechanism within 10-15 seconds.
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Postby illusion » 12 Sep 2006 14:00

A double sided disc tumbler does not exist, well not in the vocabulary this forum uses at any rate. What Hampton called a double sided disc lock was in fact a double sided wafer lock. Then again, it was written a while back, and I am sure the terminology has evoloved since then.

I was not aware that American made a double sided wafer lock... I guess you learn something new every day.

Would you do me a favour? Reckon you could get some photos of your lock? I've never seen it before, and relish the chance to learn new things. :)
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Postby Squelchtone » 12 Sep 2006 15:22

illusion wrote:A double sided disc tumbler does not exist, well not in the vocabulary this forum uses at any rate. What Hampton called a double sided disc lock was in fact a double sided wafer lock. Then again, it was written a while back, and I am sure the terminology has evoloved since then.

I was not aware that American made a double sided wafer lock... I guess you learn something new every day.

Would you do me a favour? Reckon you could get some photos of your lock? I've never seen it before, and relish the chance to learn new things. :)


I know where there's one in use by the local rail road company, I walked by it the other day and of course *just had to* check the model number, it was an H10 with a very tight keyway.. _/--\_ sort of like that

I'll try to get some photos of it.

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master lock #15

Postby jump13000 » 14 Sep 2006 0:20

ive been picking the #3 and #5 master lock in less than five seconds, so i bought a master lock #15 with 5 pins and what they say " over 9,000 key changes for maximum pick resistance" i ve been working on it for the last couple of hours and no luck lol!!! any suggestions??
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Re: master lock #15

Postby Squelchtone » 16 Sep 2006 1:54

jump13000 wrote:ive been picking the #3 and #5 master lock in less than five seconds, so i bought a master lock #15 with 5 pins and what they say " over 9,000 key changes for maximum pick resistance" i ve been working on it for the last couple of hours and no luck lol!!! any suggestions??


Well.. the new No.3's are doing this.. they have an ABUS style bottom plate which forces you to pick in only 1 direction. Most cheaper Master padlocks can be picked open clockwise or counter(anti)clockwise. If you have any WD-40, try spraying lots of it into the lock.

I recently got a new No.3 with the silver plastic bumpers and 'commercial' wording. The inside felt so cheap, the springs and pins felt like they were about to fall out of the keyway, and it was a brand new lock.

The "even worse than before" tolerances may be causing you trouble.

Lube it up and rake with an L-rake, or a regular sized (non slimline) medium hook. light to medium tension.

Good Luck, and I take it your No.15 does have the silver/grey plastic on it?

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