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IDIOT'S Guide to Pick production with templates

When it comes down to it there is nothing better than manual tools for your Lock pick Set, whether they be retail, homebrew, macgyver style. DIY'ers look here.

IDIOT'S Guide to Pick production with templates

Postby BazookaMedic » 26 Dec 2006 19:31

IDIOT’S Guide to Lock pick Crafting
BazookaMedic
Version: 1.0
Released: 12-26-2006

Contents
Disclaimer- The Obvious
Safety
Materials- What you need
Preparing your Stock
Attaching the Templates
Proper use of a File
Proper use of a Bench Grinder
Proper use of a Dremel Tool
Milling your Picks to Shape
Finishing your Picks
Tension Wrenches





Disclaimer

Obviously I have to protect myself from some ignorant people out there so here we go. I BazookaMedic am not responsible for the result of your partaking in the activities described in this instructional manual. You can do what you please with this manual. I publish this with the intent for anyone who wants it to have it.

Safety

The use of tools to make your picks obviously carry dangers. A bench grinder the most commonly used tool for this can kill you if misused. Things to note when using a bench grinder:

• Do not grind on the side of the wheel as seen in picture a. the wheel will shatter and sever your limbs and fingers.
• Always wear safety goggles. A bench grinder tends to flick tiny sharp shards of metal out and you do not want to be hit in the eye.
• Wear long sleeves. Same reason as above.
• Have a clean work area. It makes life easier and safer.
• Watch your fingers. Grinder burn hurts. And you run a risk of taking your finger off.

Materials

• Bench Grinder (optional but will make your results fast and good.) – A small cheap 6 inch Ryobi model or delta will do very well.
• Tri-file- for finishing work ang cutting angles you can not do on the grinder.
• Flat file- For finishing your picks.
• Finishing file- for deburring.
• 220-1200 wet dry sand paper- for finishing your picks.
• Cup of cold water-for quenching.
• High Carbon Steel Hacksaw blades- Pick material.
• Windshield wiper inserts- tension wrench material.
• Lighting source
• Templates
• Krazy glue- for securing templates to blades
• Cardstock-for the templates.
• Scissors- To cut out the templates.

Preparing your Stock

The first thing to do is start with your material your picks will be made of. Start by taking 5 inch segments and snapping the blade in half. You can get two full size picks out of one 12 inch blade. Next take some 220 grit sand paper and sand all of the paint off. This will save your fingers later. Then go on to the next paragraph.


Attaching the Templates

Take the templates provided at the end of this manual and print them off on the cardstock. This paper is tougher and more durable than regular paper. So next, cut out the templates as close as you can to the outline of the pick shape. The closer the better quality your pick will be. After you have the templates cut out will want to glue them to the hacksaw blade. Coat the blade and back of the template and press it down on the hack saw blade. Let that dry for 5 minutes for maximum durability. Then apply a coat over the top of the paper and get the sides for waterproofing. Again let dry 5 minutes.
Tool Choices

At this point you have two options, A. Bench grinder and file, or B. File only. If you are using a file only to produce your picks, you will not need the coldwater to quench your pick in. C. Dremel tool. Refer to the next paragraph for procedures with a file. If you go with a bench grinder or a Dremel, you will need your safety goggles, Long sleeve shirt, and the cup of cold water to quench your workpeice in.

Proper use of a File

A file will only cut into the metal if it is used at an intersecting 90 degree angle as seen in photograph A. Regardless of which option you take you will use a file. A file used to finish the pick removes microscopic cracks and gives a better surface. This provides more sensitivity and greater strength in your pick.
Use a trifile as in photo b.

A
Image

B
Image


Proper use of a Bench Grinder

A bench grinder makes the production of picks faster, easier, and more accurate if used properly. Make sure you have on your safety goggles, long sleeve shirt, and your cold water before you start. A bench grinder does have a tool rest on it. I suggest using it as it helps out with getting a flat edge. More experienced people can “free hand” their picks. I do not suggest this as the reader being new to the procedure will most likely mess up their pick and their fingers. You will always want to grind in short bursts with a maximum of 3 seconds grinding before you quench your work piece. You want to give your work piece a quick dip into the cold water after the burst of grinding to cool the metal down. If your pick changes color and “sizzles” when it hits water you ruined the temper and your pick if you do not have a blow torch. And never grind on the side of the wheel. It will shatter and kill you photo A. Finally do not grind the blade as shownn Photo B If you do it will kick the blade back at you with very painful results.

A
Image

B
Image



Proper use of a Dremel tool

The using of a dremel tool allows you to cut closer angles than you ever could with a bench grinder. You do need to have the quench cup with a dremel also. The best method I have found is to have multiple grinding wheels and cutoff wheels. I find that cutting chunks away with the cut off wheel to get the pick to a mingle size, and then grinding with the grinding attachment. Then finally finish them with hand files.

Milling your Picks to Shape

Now that you have learned the proper and safe usage techniques for your tools, and you have your stock prepared as in the first two paragraphs- you are ready to start your picks.

With all 3 methods your objective is to make the metal flush with the paper. You will grind, file, or cut your way there. When you are grinding or cutting make sure to only do so in short 2-3 second bursts and quench the pick. Remember let the speed of the tool do the work. It produces better quality tools and prolongs the life of your grinding wheel, or cutting disc.

Once you have the rough shape of your pick, you will want to take your flat file and file the edges the rest of the way to make them flush and smooth. For angles use the tri-file. This not only gives your picks more sensitivity, it also increases their strength. Now you should have a nice looking pick that needs finishing work on its surface.

Finishing your Picks

The key to quality picks is the finishing. It is simple but takes some time to do right. You should have your silicon- oxide wet/dry sandpaper at this point. The goal is to produce a mirror finish. Here comes the fun part.

You will want to start with 300 grit if you removed the paint with 220grit as stated in the very first paragraph. Once you get the scratches out from 220 grit, move up to 400, repeat and continue to 1200 grit.

For the 1200 grit paper sand with it dry until you do not see any scratches. From their wet your work piece with water and sand more. Repeat this 4 times. Once you have done this your pick will be as shiny as a mirror.

Tension Wrench Construction

Tension wrenches are very important. With out them you can not pick a lock. The procedure for making them is simple as you will only need some pliers with cutters in them, and some windshield wiper inserts. To acquire windshield wiper inserts you can check the garbage bins outside of auto parts stores, ask a mechanic for some, check your local junkyard, take your own when you replace wiper blades, check oil change place.

The wiper inserts are made of very durable stainless steel. You can bend your wrenches to shape with your pliers and they will still maintain their original integrity. The following is a list of basic tension wrenches you will need and how to make them.

Standard Tension wrench
Material: 3 5/8inches of windshield wiper insert.
Crafting: At 3 inches make a 90 degree bend and you completed your wrench.

Image

Twisty Tension wrench
Material: 3 5/8 inches of windshield wiper insert.
Crafting: At 3 inches make a 90 degree bend. Then about ½ inches below the 90 degree bend, twist the wrench 90 degrees. You now have a twisty wrench.

Image

Double wrench
Material: 41/8 inches of wiper insert.
Crafting: At 3 inches bend the wrench as you would for a standard wrench. Then 3 inches below your first bend, bend another 90 degree angle. This one should be smaller than your first bend.

Image

Spacer Tension wrench
Material: 5 inches of windshield wiper insert.
Crafting: At 3 5/8 inches make a 60 degree bend. Then from that bend make another 60 degree bend upwards ½ inch from the first bend. Then bend a 90 degree angle 1/2 inch from that bend.

Image

Templates

Image
"I can not change the way people think--but I can get them to think."
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Postby g33kfu » 26 Dec 2006 19:44

nice little tutorial!! this will help people getting in to making their own.
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Postby BazookaMedic » 26 Dec 2006 19:46

Be sure to read shrub's guide also. thank you for the compliment. consider it my belated christmas present to LP 101.
"I can not change the way people think--but I can get them to think."
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Location: TN,USA

Postby zeke79 » 26 Dec 2006 19:58

Also note that a file should only be used in one direction usually pushing away from you. This is how the file was designed to cut. You should make your pass pushing away from you, lift the file off the work and reposition for another pass. Do not draw the file back across the work.
For the best book out there on high security locks and their operation, take a look at amazon.com for High-Security Mechanical Locks An Encyclopedic Reference. Written by our very own site member Greyman! A true 5 Star read!!
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Postby dmux » 26 Dec 2006 20:35

dont forget to use a file card!!
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Postby Legion303 » 27 Dec 2006 9:27

Very handy guide, but you might also want to mention your favorite way of getting rid of the glued-on cardstock and glue.

-steve
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Postby BazookaMedic » 27 Dec 2006 16:39

your sanding when you finish it takes care of that. or you can use some acetone or fingernailpolish.
"I can not change the way people think--but I can get them to think."
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Location: TN,USA

Postby Sl0th » 28 Dec 2006 7:59

Nice guide, I'm going to be making my own set over the weekend and it will be my first time so I'm glad you included those safety tips there too. I notice you mention to get High Carbon Steel Hacksaw blades, do hacksaw blades come in many different types? All i keep reading about is spring steel so I'm not up to speed with whats the best to use or how many types there are etc.
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Postby jordyh » 28 Dec 2006 8:06

Hey guys, i smell a sticky.
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Postby BazookaMedic » 28 Dec 2006 8:36

well you can have bi metal which has a high carbon steel back to maintain flexibility, but the actual teeth is of another harder, more brittle metal that is better suited for cutting applications
"I can not change the way people think--but I can get them to think."
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Posts: 128
Joined: 1 Sep 2006 20:17
Location: TN,USA

Can't see picks?

Postby lucky123 » 28 Aug 2007 15:52

I have windows vista and can't view the picks in the thread they show as little boxes with x's how can I view the manual?
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Postby UWSDWF » 28 Aug 2007 16:01

nothing to do with vista... BazookaMedic has closed his photobucket account
Image
DISCLAIMER:repeating anything written in the above post may result in dismemberment,arrest,drug and/or alcohol use,scars,injury,death, and midget obsession.
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note

Postby raimundo » 11 Oct 2007 7:11

I would suggest that the process he describes in preparing the stock should be: sand the full 12 inch hacksaw blade to remove the paint before breaking it in pieces, this could make it easier for those hand sanding rather than power tool sanding. Also, even before this sanding, would be a good time to remove the saw teeth with a grinder.
Wake up and smell the Kafka!!!
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Could see the pictures of the templates (I'ma Newbie)

Postby Domjac » 2 Nov 2007 11:37

I dont think its my system.. Maybe the Mods removed them? anyways the information was very insightful. Thanks
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Postby mhole » 2 Nov 2007 14:00

BazookaMedic wrote:well you can have bi metal which has a high carbon steel back to maintain flexibility, but the actual teeth is of another harder, more brittle metal that is better suited for cutting applications


You have that backwards I'm afraid. The high carbon steel is the harder steel, used for the teeth, not the flexible portion of the blade. Otherwise, great thread - thanks.
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