American Lock Series 30

[eViLZuG]

I just drilled the retaining cap on the series 30 lock and pulled the core... To my amazement, Top pins were 3 spool and 2 serrated... All bottom pins are serrated.

Way to be the hardest lock ever for a fresh picker. I started a year ago, picked 95% of all the ones I've attempted, but that one was SO hard... I figured it had a few securities in it, but ALL OF THEM!?

If you guys want, I'll post pics of the lock and the core

[unbreakable]

Thats the standard for american locks,

If you look around you'll find some other pics of other peoples american padlocks, and some of them even have sporated security pins (serrated security pins....)

Stiill, I'd like to see some pics if you dont mind, im not familiar with the series 30.

[Firearm]

Series 30 is a colored aluminum bodied lock (I think it comes in black and red). The one I tried briefly and failed so far on is black.

[unjust]

they also come in natural al and brass.

local home despot here has a stack of em but no pricing for them in their comp. i landed a 3 pack of keyed alike for 10$ plus 20 minutes of stupidity.

aside from beign a pain to pick for the beginner, how are they as locks go? is it worth me pickign up a few more?

[Kaotik]

The bodies of the American series 30, 80 and 1108 come in anodized blue aswell.

They are well known for security pins in every chamber, upper and lower, that is if a locky hasn't changed the pins and kept the security pins for himself. I have ran across that a few times on used locks.

[eViLZuG]

They are well known for security pins in every chamber, upper and lower, that is if a locky hasn't changed the pins and kept the security pins for himself. I have ran across that a few times on used locks.

naw, I bought it a while back, when I wasn't picking, then I was like...wtf, I haven't picked this yet! I could never get all the security pins to set, but I did get a valuable insight into the locks inner working

And no, sorry guys, the only picks I could send you are of the core, somebody around here threw away the body of the lock. I could draw a fairly accurate model of it to show in lieu of that, though... But it would be FAR less impressive than the pics of the pins

I'll have to grab my Mother's very nice camera for high Resolution pics

[Squelchtone]

I just drilled the retaining cap on the series 30 lock and pulled the core...

What's with all the drilling tonight? You're the second guy I'm responding to wondering why you would need to drill the retaining plate?

If you put the key in, open the lock, swing open the shackle and look into the hole, there's a Phillips screw there or allen screw, which when removed will allow the lower plate to drop out and allow the cylinder to drop out.

I only had to drill MY Series 50 allen head screw because of corrosion in the shackle hole, take a look:

http://nynex.s5.com/lp101/american_series50_breakdown/


Squelchtone

TOOOL Boston

[Kaotik]

I was wondering the same thing, but I guess no keys were available.

[eViLZuG]

I was wondering the same thing, but I guess no keys were available.

No, there was only a steel cap over the guide pin that goes through where the shackel meets the lock housing. It is NOT a re-coreable lock. Series 30, not 50... But I'm not sure about 50, I think those are re-coreable?

There was absolutely NO way to remove the retaining cap without using a drill. Had to drill through the neck of the rivet and allow the "8" plate to come out.

I might make a mini pick set to house in there, no one would suspect a lock pick in a LOCK!! LMAOOOO