Lock pick set

[Romstar]

So, I've seen a few home made sets here, and I decided that I would add a link to my personal set.

I built this set over 15 years ago using a bench grinder, and spring steel. The tension wrenches oddly enough turned out to be as good as the picks.
They are made from a common welding rod, and as such are not flat on the sides. The flats on the ends were created by heating and hammering. The temper has proven to be excellent over the last several years, and only 1 wrench has ever had to be replaced.

Of the original 12 picks, 2 have broken over the years as a result of a mistake I made in the grinding. Basically, those two picks overheated, and I never retempered them.

Here are the links.

The picks and two wrenches. (There are more wrenches)
http://www.geocities.com/romstar_orion/ ... lour-2.jpg

The set as carried. (If you've ever owned a pocket calculator, you will recognize the case.
http://www.geocities.com/romstar_orion/ ... -Set-2.jpg

Now, the reason I brought this up, is that I am seeing a lot of talk about the "new" smaller shank picks. Keep in mind that the set you are seeing here was built by me, 15 years ago and has seen almost daily use ever since.

If you have any questions or comments, feel free to contact me.

Romstar

[CaptHook]

Good source for metal. I have a few wrenches that I made from Harris brazing rods (flat), great material for a stiff wrench. Needed to sand down the thickness, they give great feedback.
Chuck

[Romstar]

Not much new here, just me trying to link to this page.

Thanks for looking.

http://www.geocities.com/romstar_orion/lockpicks/

[Ice]

Nice page, nice set, cute ruler. How long does it take you to make each pick (on average)?

[Romstar]

I kinda liked the ruler. I'll be sure to use a nice steel one next time. <G>

Each pick takes about 15 minutes or less depends on how many you've made before.

I experimented with a bunch of different things before I settled on a technique, but on average they take about 15 minutes.

Keep in mind, these picks don't have handles. That can take a fair amount of extra time.

[mr lockpickman]

i find i can do my picks in about 5 minutes...although i have a slight (major) flaw, i make mine so you've got the handle at normal hacksawblade width and height, but then it suddenly changes to a very thin small (normal size) pick, so it is/would be very easy to snap them, as i have found out

i think i'll try making them how they should be, although it'll take longer, it'll be worth it for the quality

do you handfile yours or just finish them off on the machine?

[mbell]

It takes me between 5 minutes and half an hour to make most picks, dependant ypon the style of pick/finnish/handle.

Usually around an hour to make a really nice 2 in 1 lever pick, but up to 6 hours to make my latest picks.

[Romstar]

Okay, I'll come clean.

It takes me about 5 minutes to whip out a given pick. Hooks and lifters are the easiest, followed by diamonds. Lifter diamonds are more complex, and then we get into ball, double ball and snakes.

Almost all of my picks are finished by machine. I've just gotten so familiar with my grinder that almost any profile can be made that way.

Rough profile grinding is done on a 3/4" course wheel, and final grinding is done on a 1/2" single round side wheel.

Complex picks such as the falle-safe style, micro picks, computer designed profile picks, and snakes do tend to take more time. Leading to my 15 minute generalization.

To be honest, I find the Dremel moto-tool to be a very poor tool for lock pick making. I can think of so many ways to get yourself hurt with a Dremel that I don't even have to begin thinking of hand forming a small metal pick while holding both the tool and the working piece in your hands.

With that said however, I have found that the dremel can be very useful with the pick held in a small jewlers vice, and using either grinding stones, or high-speed tungsten carbide cutting bits. They can be very useful for creating complex profiles on snake style picks. In my opinion, the fibre reinforced cutting disc is just too dangerous and prone to breaking if flexed improperly. This is a common mistake with beginners.

All of my tools are filed, sanded, and tumbled. After that process, they are reblued using cold process gun bluing. This chemical is available at any decent sporting goods store, and even your local Walmart.

Handles, if desired, are made almost exclusively from stainless steel. My current technique involves riveting. Although, I have run out of the miniature rivets used for this. I am investigating making a small compression style spot welder to take the place of rivets.

I'm looking at several methods to improve larger scale production. I'll let everyone in on that after I have settled on a suitable technique.

Romstar

[mbell]

I can think of so many ways to get yourself hurt with a Dremel

Tell me about it...the hole i bored out of my finger with a grinding bit, my face & arms when cutting discs break at 33,000rpm. But they do make nice picks!

[Romstar]

Hey, how about a booklet?

"1001 Ways Not To Use A Dremel" or, "Motorized Shrapnel, The Highspeed Menace"

Of course, that second title could apply to a variety of things.

Either way, I've seen some nasty injuries with a Dremel, and some very interesting ways of using them improperly.

I hope you don't make any new holes in your hand.

[Luke]

Romstar i got that tungsten carbide dremel bit, then i wasnt concentrating and it tore the skin off my left thum. I have enough money for a grinder now (god bless birthdays!) so i might think about buying one.

[Romstar]

I think that the best advice is possibly a good grip on both the tool and your working piece.

I'd recomend a vice of some sort if at all possible.

[freewheelin4eva]

I have an unckle who is a dentel teck. makes bridges and ect. but the bits he uses are way good, and when the get too dull for him to use anymore, he gives them to me, and they have plenty of life left in them for what I need, I just wish he would give me one of his dremmel tools he uses. way nice.