When it comes down to it there is nothing better than manual tools for your Lock pick Set, whether they be retail, homebrew, macgyver style. DIY'ers look here.
by karl » 6 May 2005 15:24
hello,im karl.i havnt been here in a while,but i recently found a new material resource and i thought i should share it with all of you.
theres so much of it,and its so cheap!!you can even get it for FREE!!!!
its a bandsaw blade!!!
if your in school,check the woodwork/shop room for a bandsaw.its a machine for cutting wood.there is a pretty big looped blade used in these and this will be thrown out once it gets to blunt or snaps.just ask a teacher to hold on to one for you,or just take one out of the trash.
these will work great.i took one out of the trash and i now have 85 cm worth of material to use,and it was free!!!
if your not in school and cant get one of these blades,you can just buy one,i dont think they are very expensive.
blade: http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/in ... 4156&MMP=1
ENJOY!!!! 
hi
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karl
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by LeaKeD » 6 May 2005 15:26
delete post we already knew all that.. use the search butten.
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by digital_blue » 6 May 2005 15:29
Sounds good. Is it rigid enough to make suitable picks out of? I would think it to be too flimsy.
db
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by karl » 6 May 2005 15:34
digital_blue wrote:Sounds good. Is it rigid enough to make suitable picks out of? I would think it to be too flimsy.
db
i thought it would be really weak too,but when you cut a small piece off its pretty strong.
hi
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by digital_blue » 6 May 2005 15:39
Sounds like a good idea. For the record, we didn't *all* know that, I've never even thought of using that as a material, though it makes sense. I did do a search and only came up with one reasonable thread on the topic:
http://www.lockpicking101.com/viewtopic.php?t=4437&highlight=bandsaw
And that didn't really indicate whether it was all that suitable or not either, so thanks for the info!
db
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by karl » 6 May 2005 15:41
no problem!glad i could help.
sorry i didnt search,i havnt been here in a while,and i just thought id quickly post it,i didnt think to search,sorry.
hi
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by Shrub » 27 May 2005 10:27
I have used band saw blades since start up more or less, they are as good as an hacksaw blade but as karl said you get a lot more, i use industrial ones and get around 5 metres of pick material each blade or they are especially good for making slim jim type tools i even use a piece instead of mila,
On another note i have noticed a new material for making 2 in 1 picks out of and perhaps even other lever lock wires,
Look around your local dumps or rivers and you will find many battered shopping carts or baskets that kids have thrown in, the metal on these can be cut out and bits soldered on to make nice 2in1's, i wouldnt suggest going to the super market and 'borrowing' a decent one to do it though.
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by Ben WV » 30 May 2005 21:14
Don't use saw blades. They're tempered (unevenly) for back and forth motion in a saw. Plus the the material is too soft. Run a search for "feeler gage," and you can order strips of it from an industrial supply store. It comes in 12 inch by one half inch strips, stainless or clock-spring steel, in grades of 1/100th of an inch thickness. You can select it according to rockwell hardness and the temper is absolutely consistent.
It's the exact same stuff that mail order picks are stamped out of. Except you can select a really high grade if you want. It's ike $3.50 per strip maximum
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by Ben WV » 30 May 2005 21:22
err, make that 1/1000ths of an inch
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by Shrub » 31 May 2005 5:57
Sorry to disagree but have a look around site,
Yes most commercial picks are made from spring steel but as i say have a good look round site then come back,
Saw blades are not tempered unevenly for a back and forth motion either, also bandsaws run in one continous direction, hacksaw blades made excellent picks in skilled hands,
Not having a go just clarifying a few points.
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by raimundo » 31 May 2005 12:30
band saw blades have to flex constantly as they are passed around the pulleys and yet be hard on the saw points, this is achieved by flamehardening the saw points only. The metal will be interesting to temper. if it has a springy curve to it, just bend it to straight, and play a bic lighter slowly along the unsharp edge, this should reset the crystaline structure of the metal enough to erase shape memory.
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by Shrub » 31 May 2005 18:55
Definatley i most agree, bandsaw blades are usually hardened on the teeth, and if useing hacksaw blades i quite like the bi metal ones as they are a lot less brittle.
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by skold » 2 Jun 2005 5:04
band saw blades are not brittle, but as always the blade depends on the brand and type, my school uses a stiffer blade than usual, but when it is bent it doesn't stay bent or snap.
The problem is the hardness can be a pain in the rear to grind and also you will find that the blade is a little thick for restrictive keyways.
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by Shrub » 2 Jun 2005 5:44
Depending on what machine they come off and for what use you can get them down to around .5mm think and i have seen them up to 5mm thick!!
Definatley bansaw blades dont tend to be brittle as they have to curve but cheap hacksaw blades are brittle unless in compression ie used as a saw.
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by skold » 2 Jun 2005 6:10
Best option is to grab your schools used hacksaw blades. My schools metalwork facility uses bi-metal HSS which is lovely to use..no breakages and no permenant bends.
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