F-B Key Machine

[CapnCurry]

Hey, folks. First off, apologies if this is discussed somewhere else, but my search-fu turned up no results dealing specifically with:

The Foley-Belsaw Key Machine! (Dramatic orchestral swell)

I've set the machine up, and gotten used to calibrating and cutting by code as well as duplicating. But, I've noticed two things: my shoulder-gauges don't *quite* line up on the original and the blank - if the gauge touches the blank, it's about 1/16th inch above the original. It's like the gauge is torqued or bent just a little bit, but I see no instructions for adjusting.

Fortunately, I don't seem to have problems with spacing - but I do have some trouble where the cut depths are off by just a few thousandths of an inch. It's enough that the key usually works, but it sticks somewhat. I calibrated the machine so that when the cutting guide is touching the original no-cut depth, it "just scrapes" the blank... but I have to re-calibrate each time I load a new original and blank, and I think I'm getting it just a little off each time.

My questions are these: Are all key machines a little finicky about how blanks are loaded and the cutter is adjusted (not just initially, but each time a blank is loaded), or is this a quirk specific to FB machines, or mine in particular? Should I consider the shoulder gauges defective and request warranty service? Does anyone have any advice in general about using the FB machine? And, will Timmy ever play the piano again?

Thanks in advance, all... and if this is discussed elsewhere, please point me toward the thread, and I shall banish my search-fu to the closet in shame.

[Locksmoker]

just got my key machine and did the lessons on code cutting and duplicating, my machine is the exact same way, shoulder gauge does not touch original when resting on blank. Constantly have to adjust depth and spacing when changing cutter or blanks. They do offer a Direct Read Digital Micrometer Depth Kit and Spacing Kit. Depth goes for $93 and Spacing for $89 or both for $177. If anyone has these installed on their machine maybe they could comment. Thnx

[lt6206]

When I change from the code cutter to the duplicating cutter.. I don't worry about what the micrometer reads.. As long as the micrometer is touching the cut key and the cutter is barely touching the key blank. If you worry about the micrometer being on 0 everytime you change cutters and guides you will have to change the adjustment. Just set you adjustment up right with the code cutter and guide on the when you change to your duplicating cutter just move the micrometer to whatever it takes to barely touch the cut key and the cutter head is barely touching the key blank. It works for me!

[ldnlksmth]

my gauge was the same... so I took it apart and flattened it... very light raps with a mallet, until it was very, very, very flat. I think the problem is that it's aluminum, and when it gets installed the space betwen the two gauges gets warped with the screw tightening. may be something to feed back to the school if we've all had this trouble.

[ComTech]

Their is an adjustment for this. Page 6 in the manual, top right paragraph.
It makes reference to B-14, a pair of lateral adjustment screws, the large allen screw that is on both sides of the mounting block that the micrometer is on.
Loosen one side and tighten the other side until you get the key to line up correctly.

[lt6206]

That manual is one area that F/B could certainly use a revamp on. Especially in the section talking about removing and replacing the guides. The guide spring is about impossible to replace if you don't run the micrometer all the way in and get the guide as close to the casting as possible. It makes it a simple process then as there is no need to stretch the spring to get the retaining pin back into place.

[ComTech]

The adjustment section could really use some help. I read that part several times. After I understood where the adjustments were, I got my machine to cut with .001 in depth and alignment.
I put the direct read micrometer on my machine, I've noticed from a shallow cut to a deep cut there is about .002 difference in accuracy due to the micrometer not being parallel, it is mounted at a slight angle. (poor design on the mount) They took the same mount and drilled a different size hole it it to fit the new micrometer instead of designing a new one to fit properly. The direct read micrometer is easier to use , but the machine will never be a Framon or a HPC 1200.
It serves it purpose for light use.

[lt6206]

Thanks for the information on the digital mic. I was thinking about purchasing that for mine however I guess I won't now that I know that. I may purchase the spacing micrometer though.

[ComTech]

I do like the direct read micrometer much better, but on a deep cut, I check the cut with a digital caplier, and cut deeper if I need to.
I haven't had a problem with the key working, even if I don't adjust for it.
It doesn't affect duplicating, since the micrometer stays at the same setting, you only see a slight difference in code cutting.
Here is what the instructions say that came with the depth micrometer.

"Note: Since the shaft of the new digital micrometer is longer than your old micrometer you will need to tilt the casting back so your machine will zero out properly. Remember as you turn your cutter by hand and your new mic is on zero, the cutter should just barely scrape the key blank in the left had vise clamp while the tracer guide touches the key blank in the right hand vise clamp. "

[ldnlksmth]

I agree that its no HPC, or the ILCO robot (laser guided dup/code machine) I use in my shop. It's actually sitting on my home workbench right now, but for a long time I used it in my truck because it could do everything I wanted it to... I cheated and duplicated with the code wheel. it's a decent machine, if you understand how to use it.