closer for ANTE room

[cledry]

Got a weird job last week. Job description, door won't seal after it was removed to install a hood. A bit vague but off I go.

First clue upon arrival that this was no ordinary job. I am given a dosimeter to wear and a clean suit head to toe. Next I am lead to the room and the sound of multiple Geiger counters ticking away is the next clue that this would be no ordinary job.



Not sure what a safe reading is but the ticking is a little worrying.



The door I will be working on. Hmm there's that yellow sign.



The door was removed by day labourers to move a 700 lb hood into an inner room. They left the door hanging first by the top hinge and then by the door closer. They also removed the weather seal and jammed the auto seal on the bottom. The result the room was dangerously close to the minimum .04 reading on the meter. The staff claimed it used to hold steady at .07.

I fought with this thing for almost 2 hours. First replaced the damaged hinge, tightened loose hinge screws, replaced stripped ones. Door still didn't close and seal. Straightened bent closer arm, flipped shoe and shortened arm for a bit more push. Still nothing. Sped up the latch and sweep and really cranked up the power, still nothing. Removed the auto seal and repaired it and adjusted it, a bit better but still losing air like crazy. Remove the door seals and reposition them. After a few attempts I can get .065, customer is happy but I am not. The closer still doesn't seem to really close the door tightly. Any thoughts other than a power operator? Considering one of the new Nortons with the little motor for added closing force when needed.

Pressure reading .065.

[GWiens2001]

Nice job. I hear that now you no longer need a flashlight in the dark.

Gordon

[Raymond]

I am not a door specialist by any means. So, just brainstorming.

The day laborers probably caused the hinge back frame plates to warp. You might need to try one of those hinge tweakers to bend the frames back to 'straighter'.

[cledry]

I am not a door specialist by any means. So, just brainstorming.

The day laborers probably caused the hinge back frame plates to warp. You might need to try one of those hinge tweakers to bend the frames back to 'straighter'.

Oh, I forgot, yes the bottom one was tweaked, so I did straighten it. I also had to put a 16 ga shim in the bottom.

[DOORDOCTOR]

Cledry,

try repositioning the body so you get more strength (about an inch or 2 away from hinge) if this one don't have a spring tension adjustment screw on long end of closer???

after the move of the hood, is there any pressure changes between the 2 rooms?? may help some, but try preloading the arm more then usual?? (I know I may have just made a few installers CRINGE reading this from a door closer expert) but more then usual preload may be able to help overcome the problems if they cannot be resolved by removing weather seals or air pressure.



Norton with motor for latch???? not heard of this one yet, possible you may be mistaken the 6000 series power operator with a regular closer?? their last new closer was the 9500 series cast iron. or maybe the motorized latch is a special application closer they not told me about yet.

hope this helps


-Jess the door closer doctor

[MatrixBlackRock]

After a few attempts I can get .065, customer is happy but I am not. The closer still doesn't seem to really close the door tightly. Any thoughts other than a power operator? Considering one of the new Nortons with the little motor for added closing force when needed.

Pressure reading .065.

Any chance the jackleg laborers while in the process of hosing up the door and frame, managed to hose up the seal around the frame and now you are battling two problems one door related and one structural?.

Wayne