Pull up a chair, grab a cold one, and talk about life as a locksmith. Trade stories of good and bad customers, general work day frustrations, any fun projects you worked on recently, or anything else you want to chat about with fellow locksmiths.
by tpark » 15 Oct 2017 9:07
GWiens2001 wrote:The systems I am most familiar with all use an antenna that wraps around the ignition key cylinder entrance to send/receive a signal to/from the transponder chip in the key. The system does not know to read the chip until the key is turned.
Gordon
I'm sure there are many different ways of setting up transponder systems, and querying the transponder when the system is switched to "on" would be one way to do this. The Toyota immobilizer system queries when the key is inserted - with the "master" key, the red light stops blinking immediately when the correct key is inserted, and it will illuminate briefly and then go out for the valet key. When an unprogrammed key is inserted, the light keeps blinking. I think that Toyota had made it possible to program the key without cutting so that it's possible to verify you have the right chip - there are a number of different chips for this brand, so it might be helpful to verify that the correct transponder is used before having to cut the key. I suppose that one could cut the code onto a transponderless key and hold the transponder key by the keyhole, but that would take a bit more time if it was good and you would use an extra blank. On the the other hand, some systems require a token to program the key, so in that case you might want to be sure that the mechanical part of the key works properly before programming it. Turning the key to "on" for the new key ensures that the bitting is correct, so I can see the logic behind that too.
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by GWiens2001 » 15 Oct 2017 9:14
tpark wrote:GWiens2001 wrote:The systems I am most familiar with all use an antenna that wraps around the ignition key cylinder entrance to send/receive a signal to/from the transponder chip in the key. The system does not know to read the chip until the key is turned.
Gordon
I'm sure there are many different ways of setting up transponder systems, and querying the transponder when the system is switched to "on" would be one way to do this. The Toyota immobilizer system queries when the key is inserted - with the "master" key, the red light stops blinking immediately when the correct key is inserted, and it will illuminate briefly and then go out for the valet key. When an unprogrammed key is inserted, the light keeps blinking. I think that Toyota had made it possible to program the key without cutting so that it's possible to verify you have the right chip - there are a number of different chips for this brand, so it might be helpful to verify that the correct transponder is used before having to cut the key. I suppose that one could cut the code onto a transponderless key and hold the transponder key by the keyhole, but that would take a bit more time if it was good and you would use an extra blank. On the the other hand, some systems require a token to program the key, so in that case you might want to be sure that the mechanical part of the key works properly before programming it. Turning the key to "on" for the new key ensures that the bitting is correct, so I can see the logic behind that too.
Thank you for the new info, TPark.  Have only needed to program for the two dealership manufacturers I have worked for - Ford and Honda. Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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by Raymond » 22 Nov 2017 23:22
And...they wanted me to rekey these locks without messing with the shutters. 
Nothing is foolproof to a talented fool. Wisdom is not just in determining how to do something, but also includes determining whether it should be done at all.
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by GWiens2001 » 23 Nov 2017 1:55
Raymond wrote:And...they wanted me to rekey these locks without messing with the shutters.  Uhmm, yeah. Gordon
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by jeffmoss26 » 23 Nov 2017 11:41
"I tried smoking a blank once. I was never able to keep the tip lit long enough to inhale." - ltdbjd
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by GWiens2001 » 23 Nov 2017 13:04
Shimming the cylinder from the back?
Know the cylinders are not that expensive from a professional standpoint, so it may not be fiscally worthwhile to work on that core. But since at least part of the key is present, perhaps you could push in the key to the right place, then pick the remaining pin from the back.
Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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by jeffmoss26 » 23 Nov 2017 13:27
Did not have to shim - the cap was completely loose (which is why the plug was stuck out) so I just used a hook to move the control lug. I tried pushing the key with my extractor and it would not budge.
"I tried smoking a blank once. I was never able to keep the tip lit long enough to inhale." - ltdbjd
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by Raymond » 23 Nov 2017 17:56
In that condition the second bottom pin is under no top pin at the front edge of the cylinder and therefore locks the key in place. Solution choices: 1. smack the plug back in with a light hammer. 2. If the key cuts 3-6 are lower than cut 2 using a pin punch drive the key out from back to front. Likewise possibly drive the key out from front to back. 3. Remove top spring retainer strip.
Anyway you look at it, that core has seen many days of use and was due to be changed out.
HAPPY THANKSGIVING ALL!
Nothing is foolproof to a talented fool. Wisdom is not just in determining how to do something, but also includes determining whether it should be done at all.
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by billdeserthills » 24 Nov 2017 4:46
Raymond wrote:And...they wanted me to rekey these locks without messing with the shutters. 
Does that lock say 'nuset'? Only the best for these folks
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by Raymond » 24 Nov 2017 18:34
Nah---"EZ SET"
Nothing is foolproof to a talented fool. Wisdom is not just in determining how to do something, but also includes determining whether it should be done at all.
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by jeffmoss26 » 24 Nov 2017 20:10
Another one from today - customer brought in an old Emhart/Russwin knob that he needed replaced. Only the latch was bad...  Until he used a sawzall to remove the inside knob and take it off the door :O  Sold him 2 Arrow knobs keyed alike with 20 keys, tore apart the old lock and got myself a nice D1 keyway knob cylinder!
"I tried smoking a blank once. I was never able to keep the tip lit long enough to inhale." - ltdbjd
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by cledry » 24 Nov 2017 22:04
jeffmoss26 wrote:Another one from today - customer brought in an old Emhart/Russwin knob that he needed replaced. Only the latch was bad...  Until he used a sawzall to remove the inside knob and take it off the door :O  Sold him 2 Arrow knobs keyed alike with 20 keys, tore apart the old lock and got myself a nice D1 keyway knob cylinder!
That is their medium duty model. They aren't very secure but do last a long time. The HD model though is a beast!
Jim
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by ltdbjd » 25 Nov 2017 13:50
I don’t do any fieldwork anymore, but if I did, I’d like to try that technique for a lockout. My biggest problem is that I wouldn’t be able to fit a Sawz-All in my pickset. But I’d love to see the look on a customers face when I walked up to their door holding one. It would almost as good as walking up to their door with a running chainsaw.
“Locked out, no problem. I can get you in, or the service is free.” And I’d never lose money on the deal.
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