Tools for Locksmithing

[Varjeal]

This will most likely take awhile to fully compile, but I'll try and give ya a rather comprehensive tool list in case you're wondering why locksmiths want vans to carry their gear around in.

We'll start with the basic hand tools:

1. Set of phillips screwdrivers from tiny to large.
2. Set of plain screwdrivers from tiny to large.
3. Set of robertson screwdrivers from tiny to large.
4. Set of torx drivers.
5. Good set of hex keys.
6. Vise grips (needle nose and regular)
7. Pliers (needle nose, bent needle, regular)
8. 6-8" crescent wrench.
9. 3 hammers (light 6 or 8 oz) one plastic, one heavy deadblow.
10. Set of files including a grobert or swiss #2 or #4 for impressioning.
11. Cleaning card, or brush to clean files.
12. Set of chisels 3/4", 1" 1 1/4".
13. 8" Level
14. Pencil, marker
15. Auto center punch, pin punch, center punch, awl
16. Set of Tin snips (right, left, center)
17. Multi-driver screwdriver w/various bits and including security bits.
18. Flashlight.
19. One of them disposable carpenter's knives where you can replace the blades.
20. Imperial/Metric tape measure.
21. Calculator
22. Machinist square 12" & carpenter's square
23. Digital Caliper.
24. Set of picks (regular, tubular, pickgun), key extractors, depth keys, turning wrenches for lock roses, unican combo lock change keys.
25. Can of spray lubricant, lock de-icer
26. Wire cutters/strippers/crimpers.
27. Pipe wrench, crowbar, brass drift.
28. Snap-ring pliers (reversible)
29. Formed end long tweezers.
30. Set of plug followers and cap removal tools.
31. Electrical tape.
32. Duct tape.
33. Roll of wire.
34. Hand plane for fitting doors etc.
35. Roll of shop towels and hand cleaner.
36. Hacksaw and spare blades.
37. 9" Borescope (not mandatory unless you're doing safe work)
38. 3/8" & 1/2" Socket and ratchet set
39. Set of Nut drivers.
40. Set of wrenches/spanners 3/8-15/16 and metric 3-15mm
41. Complete set of auto opening tools + manuals/updates.
42. 2' & 5' Step-ladder.
43. Dustpan and brush.
44. Garbage bags or box for debris such as broken lock parts, etc.
45. Tap & die set.
46. Portable work table/surface and stool.
47. Extending Magnet.
48. Jig/knockout for cam lock installation.
49. Digital Camera.
50. Compression plate and steering wheel removal tools.

Some type of carrying cases for all of the above.

Alrighty..next on the list, my personal favorite...POWER TOOLS!

1. 18V 1/2" Cordless drill with extra batteries, charger, and hole saws. 1/2",3/4",1",1 1/4", 1 1/2", 2 1/8". Set of titanium/cobalt bits 1/16 to 3/4". Masonry bits 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 3/4", assortment of uni-bits.
2. 9.6V 3/8" Cordless drill or screwdriver, extra batteries, charger, and bits.
3. 1/2" Hammer Drill (Corded), Lever Rig, Safe Bits.
4. Good key duplicating machine such as the Silica Bravo Semi-auto.
5. Good code machine such as the 1200 Blitz or ITL-950 or 950C +software of course.
6. Scotsman Tubular key machine.
7. Laptop computer, printer, and cell phone.
8. 2-3000 watt power inverter
9. Dremel tool with accesories such as cut-off wheels, router attachment, etc.
10. High speed router.
11. Jigsaw. (if you install/repair wood door frames.)
12. Mortising Jig.
13. Couple of extension cords. Thanks to I Pik U for that addition.
14. 4" & 6" angle grinder


Pin kits:

This will depend on what area of the world you are located in, but for now I'm going to assume you're in the America's. Hopefully a U.K. lockie will come on and give some suggestions for some of the particular lever tumbler locks found there. In the meantime, here are my suggestions:

1. Lab .003 or .005 Wedge or Super Wedge. If you plan on performing masterkey systems, especially for larger stores/buildings/malls/hospitals, etc...you will really find the .003 pin kit more to your liking. The Super Wedge differs only from the standard in that it contains a bottom drawer for small tools, extra pins, keyblanks, parts, etc... This one pin kit will allow you to cover most pin tumber locks such as Arrow, Corbin, Kwikset, Sargent, Schlage, Segal, Taylor, Weiser, Weslock, Yale, and many more, so one of these is a must-have item.

2. Cam lock wafer kit. This simple kit will allow you to rekey most rekeyable wafer locks. This is really a must have item and will save you stocking dozens of different types of cam locks.

3. Tubular pin kit. If you plan on servicing these locks, this'll be a good thing to have. Most of these brand specific kits also include some of the most common parts such as springs, clips, screws, and other replacement parts. (I personally don't see many, so it's generally easier for me to just replace, or decode and order keys). Not necessary as a starter item, but something to consider as your business grows.

4. Automotive. This is a biggie, really, and the only way to know (if you plan on doing automotive) what you're going to see is to tour your city/town, and write down a list of the most common types of auto's (don't forget motorcycles) that you see. Your best bet would to then contact your supplier for some catalogs, and start shopping. You'll find that certain kits will cover more than one type of locking system, and these are the ones you want. For example, Strattec has many kits for Ford. They have particular ones for the old 5-pin system, the 8-wafer, and 10 wafer system...they also have more general (and of course, more expensive) kits that will cover all of these. You will need to determine from your own city/town what is the most popular. An easy way is to find out what dealerships are in your town/area that you'll be covering, and purchase equipment for those. The three big ones GM, Ford, and Chrysler kits should be enough to get you started if you choose to service automotive. Hint: Be cautious when purchasing these kits as they can be expensive, and if you aren't going to use them often it's kind of a waste of money.

5. Padlock kits. Companies such as American and Master Lock have pin kits specifically for their brand of locks, as does Papaiz and several others. What American and Master Lock WON'T tell you is that their pin sizes (though "numbered" differently), will interchange. However, should you decide to sell/service these, you should get a kit of each to have the extra parts/tools that come with them.

6. Interchangeable core kits. Yeah, if you plan on servicing these locks, you will need brand specific kits to do so. This is NOT a recommended starter item unless you are sure you will get this type of work.

7. At some point and time you may decide you wish to have your own restricted and/or high security keyway. In your inital package you should receive a special pinning kit + tools in many cases, to be able to properly deal with those types of locks.


Inventory


Wow....I was going through the key book looking at what should be included, and decided for the sake of time and space to share with you some bits of opinion and experience instead of listing specific keys.

A. Vehicle keys:

The best way to determine what you will need as far as key inventory for automotive is very simple. A couple of hours a day, at various times, take with you a pen and pad and go to a coffee shop or popular cafe that has a window seat with a good view of your main roads. Spend a couple hours making notes on the make/model/ and approximate year of vehicles that you see drive by. This does a couple things for you.

1. Helps you to learn to identify the vehicle as you arrive on-site and speeds your selection of tools.

2. Gets you into the habit of mentally choosing a keyblank and/or opening tool.

3. Will enable you to quicikly determine if a particular vehicle is transponder equipped. (Whether this is good or bad depends on the type of business you are after.)

Also, take a drive through used car lots and talk the sales people (drop off cards too) to see what the "fast movers" are. After about a week or so you should have a pretty good idea of what the popular vehicles are in town. Don't forget to include motorcylces, RV's and large semi-trailer trucks (if you have 'em) on your list as well. Through your supplier you should be able to receive (for free) Strattec and Ilco parts books, key identification books, programming instructions, and automotive tool lists so that you can decide what types of keys you will need. Be sure to look through the books carefully, as there are more than a few keyblanks that will work on a range of vehicles. Talk to a local locksmith or two about what keyblanks will interchange with what. This will save greatly on your inventory costs.

For the America's your main automotive keys will be from the big three. GM (P1098A and S1098B are examples), Ford (1196FD and S1196 will work in a large variety of Fords), and Chrysler (Y157 and Y155 are popular). Euro vehicles are famous for having keyblanks that will interchange between a variety of manufactures and locks (X121 is a good example of that). Looking through a keyblank book, you can compare the profiles to cut down on the types of blanks required.

B. Residential

Again, a simple tour through your town should yield good results. I would advise taking mental notes, though, since residents might find it suspicious seeing you stand in front of their door with a paper and pen in hand. Another good way of identifying popular types is simply to ask your friends and neighbors to have a look at their keyrings and take notes from there.

C. Commercial

Make it a habit that every business you walk into that you glance at their locks and hardware. Some will have the brand name stamped right on the face which makes it easy to identify. Padlocks, and other security devices like that will most likely have a name stamped right on them, and will be easy to identify.

D. Miscellaneous keys

These would include filing cabinet, safe deposit, drawer locks, etc. This is a tricky call since there are literally hundreds of different types, and many do not have identify marks of any kind. Purchasing a variety of different keyblanks, and good conversation with a supplier and other locksmiths will help you to identify what you will need to carry.

A word of warning: Do not soley trust your supplier(s). Although they will be helpful, some will occasionally try to take the opportunity to offload some "oddball" blanks on an unsuspecting client.

Thanks to HeadhunterCEO for bringing up the issue of necessary parts...I've added his recommendations, and started a new section in this post for parts and other "extra necessities".

Parts

Fasteners:
Pan & flat , Short and long. Self tappers would be the best

6-32
8-32
10-24
10-32
12-24
1/4-20
5/16-18

-Lag,hex,nuts and carriage bolts Short and Long

1/4-20
5/16-18
3/8-16
1/2-13

Some wood screws but definately these short and long
#6 brass and 26d
screws for butt hinges

-Washers for all your lags
-Sleeve anchors for use with the lags to bolt things down
-plastic anchors for blown out screw hole repairs and anchoring thresholds
-sex bolts,sex bolts,sex bolts!
-springs, and c-clips of various dimensions.

Random:
Bondo- cream &xtra tube of hardener
J&B weld
caulk gun
caulk duronotic,clear,black,brown
Lubriplate grease
cutting/tapping fluid or
drill lube fluid/wax (i like wax)
metal stock for those "quickie" repairs in various lengths and thickness.
Alum L bar 1"x1 1/2
1/8 mild steel plates of various sizes

More will be added as I have time. I'll leave this unlocked, and if there's something you think I missed for a particular section, feel free to post.

[ldnlksmth]

to each their own, I've used both, I like the fish tape, takes up less space in my truck (too many toys as it is)... but the glow rods are excellent. When ALL I did was fish wire (worked on fire alarm systems), I used those regularly. I also had a paint roller handle with a hook taped to the end, used it when I had the room, because it was sturdier.


one thing to learn, is that no two locksmiths/geneeral security professionals will use the same tool set. I worked under 3 different 'masters' just in the lock field... the first one was the cheapest person I knew. strictly mobile, his equipment was all at least 20 years old (except the picks, which he had to replace cuz he wasn't very good at picking and broke them all the time). He didn't have a pick gun, didn't use a code machine, didn't do tubular lock work, used a two-piece woody pin kit etc etc etc.

another guy I worked for had brand new trucks, each one had a duplicator and a code machine in it, as well as a strip sander, tubular machines, automotive (VATS only) decoders, and every toy you could imagine, I never did find them all. Every time something new came out, he was the first one to buy it (5 usually).

the point is that there is always more than one way to do the job. both of these guys were good locksmiths. installed, serviced and opened locks on a daily basis. not always is true the statement "he who has the most toys wins".

[Ermis]

I thought i would add a few "life savers" to the list.
I noticed a laptop was mentioned this would be a good time to recommend locksmith software to be used with the code cutting machine he mentioned.
Code Source works with the 1200 blitz. Code Source from HPC also includes a free copy of COA - Car Opening Authority. This will describe with pictures in a web browser format how to open any given make or model of car. You can even search car openings by Tool Style. So you can see which cars are opened with a co-39 (honda, etc). And which car models (or certain year of a model) is pickable through the cylinder.

Another life saver for any locksmith on site is DAP.
This can be purchased from any Paint Supplier like "color your world" or most hardware stores in larger cities.
This fabulous DAP Silicon with WHITE PAINT mixed in can cover up any "mistake" a locksmith might make with his chisel. It can also fix other peoples mistakes on doors when you Re & Re a new lock in existing holes and you want your job to look professional. Some time in our career's every locksmith comes across one very cheap door or frame made from the worst possible glued together material that just splits or blows out a tiny bit from the chisel, hammering or drill. this stuff is like magic that fixes your accident. It is shaped like a small stand up Squeeze bottle. It does not require a caulking gun - thats why i love DAP so much. Slide it into your bag and leave it until you need it

Stanley sells a multi bit screw driver i found is the ultimate tool for every application. In canada you can find these screw drivers at Canadian Tire they cost $19.00 + tax. They look like the standard Black and Yellow Stanley Tools. It's a heavy duty multi bit that will last 10 years, the bits are hex chuck sized and are mix and matchable with any other screw head bits you get from a DeWalt kit. You can also add the Magnetic Bit holder that comes with a DeWalt screw driver bit kit onto this stanely screw driver for easy one handed action when you are wound up in tight situations with door closer installations and you're alone. Especially the bigger commercial closers like LCN 4040H one hand to hold it in place and one hand on the driver with the screw's magnetically held to it - i can't stress how much easier these help full cheap setups save my butt on a solo job.

Proto Brand Screw Drivers (george bush did something right). They offer a thin flat head screwdriver (stanley brand) Model Number 88208 it's a 10" long 1/16th thin flat head(i think it's 1/16th thin) If you are a locksmith you already know what i just said is THE LIFE SAVER of the mortise world, and also helps with safe work , especially if you're drilling blind without a borescope, thin flat heads in this situation are like ketchup to hot dogs.

I may have missed this in your list but i don't remember seeing a Table Vice. This item requires no introduction or description, you need it period.

DeWalt Cordless Cut-Off Tool / Grinder 18V XPR 4-1/2". I just got this and it cuts through steel like a hot knife in butter. Padlocks, U-Locks - Cordless is great in case the bike is on a large university campus in the middle of a park area with no outlets. Also for Safe work to grind down ball bearings when you pack a hole the 4-1/2" - 1/4" surface grinding disc is beautiful. Sure you could get a corded one and mess around with outlets but this item is easily movable and can get into better situations then a corded drill. Think about installing an astragal and knob protector in a large parkade without outlets and you need to cut a slit in the side of the knob protector to slide the astragal into it to mount the plate firmly and neatly. you could either mess around in your truck with a vise and a hand hack saw or electrical recipricating saw or just pull this little bad boy and finish your job quickly and ahead of schedual.

Electricians Standing up Tool Holding Kit - Small pouched bag fits every hand tool you need neatly with pockets on the side for extra 3" screws, a few bags of drill-head Screw's (save your life every time with steel applications) I use these in both trucks and i have one for my tool set at home, then i have a larger duffel looking bag for my drill, bits, battery and charger + hole saws, arbors, etc.

I have more things i will post but i'm at work and i should really get back to doing something productive here on my quiet day.

- Ermis

[justinthomas]

Hi,

I have been told I'd need at least the following to be able to answer domestic/commercial calls as a new locksmith into the industry:

6 hard plate drill bits
1 x Letterbox opening kit
1 x pack Mica
1 x plug spinner
set of thumb turn turners
1 x snapper bar
Full Set Of ICL Bump Keys
ICL Bump Hammer
Set mini jiggler keys
1 x electric pick gun
13 piece hand pick set
1 x disc detainer padlock pick
1 x box padlock shims
1 x universal lever padlock pick
1 x set lever wires
1 set 3 lever jiggler keys
1 x 6g 2in1 pick
1 x 7g 2in1 pick
1 x ICL curtain pick set 5g and 7g tools
1 x drill template
1 x set training covers
1 x drop key
1 x chubb 3G114 decoder
1 x union decoder
1 x CB 5g curtain pick
1 x ICL mortice lock id manual
1 x lock and picking Cd

And this for auto calls:

1 x unikey Mk2 opening kit
1 x 5ft super snare
1 x switch stick
1 x ICL auto overlifter set
1 x set VAG jigglers
1 x heavy duty air wedge
1 x set auto jigglers
Full set of 10 laser picks
1 x set of BMW and VAG rakes
1 set of ford tibbe picks

Can any one let me know if this is over exhausted or normal? And a rough estimate of how much I should be paying for each tool list.

Cheers

Justin
Jus

[Shrub]

The tool list is reasonable but some of the items are vastly over priced and cheaper alternitives can be found,

One or two of the tools on that list are not as good as others on the market and i would advise you didnt buy them,

Who gave you that list?

[justinthomas]

a trainer / locksmith I'm thinking o training with...
£2.5k for the com/dom tools & £2k for auto tools..

I need to know what to buy, what's good, what I should expect to pay etc, where can I get this info??

Cheers

Justin

[chip]

Depends if buying new or secondhand, and whether buying from trade wholesalers such as safeventures, SKS , Keyprint and duffels , or from the sharks who sell to hobby pickers.

If buying new from trade then around £4500 to £5000 catalogue prices, for everything you have listed.

most start with alot less, some start with no more than a drill, depends upon what sort of locksmith you aim to be, and what type of market you are aiming for.

[chip]

Also I forgot to mention stock.

If you are serious about the start up you will need a range of locks that you can use in any given situation.
When I first started I bought myself what I thought would be enough, How wrong I was. I spent a total of £1600 and it didn't nearly cover it all.
I now carry round in the van a minimum of £3500 worth of locks, handles, MPL's padlock, hasp and staples euro, oval and rim cylinders, with another £2000 in stock. I know it sounds a lot but it looks bad on a lockie if he can't produce a basic lock for fitting without having to order it first.

Big layout to just get started.

In the first few months of trading I found I'd spent in excess of £15k on tools and stock.

[New-York-Locksmith]

Jeez Chip - are those prices in pounds?
you need a small fortune to get started in the UK. Personally I'm toying with the idea of trying to live and work there - but after visiting London a few weeks ago - that's a big no no. Can't afford basic accommodation there - whats up with the british economy?

[lockey1963]

It costs considerably more than that in the end, especially with stock and advertising, and then you keep on going year after year expanding your services and learning new skills, until you end up fully set up with in excess of a 50 k investment, especially if you want a decent living long term.

as soon as 1 market gets flooded you expand to another and so on, autos are still good money, but more having a go now with the mvp so cheap, but safes still a closed shop and not yet flooded, but i guess it will happen.

[lockey1963]

its like the latest keyedge con on sale on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Professional-Lock ... dZViewItem

and they dont teach you enough to survive, but still want over 3k and now offering the worthless unrecognised city and guilds that means you did a course and doesnt even confirm a basic standard of competence, a waste of time and money.

over 3K for shoddy training before you even look at tool and stock investment, surely no one will be fool enough ?

[New-York-Locksmith]

.............over 3K for shoddy training before you even look at tool and stock investment, surely no one will be fool enough ?

you'd be shocked how many people pay 3k and more for questionable courses...

[JB0311NY]

Great List... If I spilt it up over the next year or so it looks very workable.
Thanks alot!

[J-Hood]

I didn't see a bench grinder mentioned and I did notice a lack of more auto tools metioned in a follow up posters (Justin Thomas) list. If you want to be a locksmith you need to learn an alternative to the air wedge. Any hack and towtruck driver car bend up a door with a wedge and open the car with an airwedge. The customer is calling a locksmith to have their car opened with no damage. An air wedge causes damage and should be the last tool you go for not the first. It is the same with a drill on a home. In Chicago we have all the 800 number hacks drilling out locks right away (and not replaceing them ) and generally making the real lockies look bad.

Sorry just my .02

Jason

[Mats]

I want to know how much should pay for all the list of tool ?