Screws--what common fasteners to carry?

[Peter Martin]

I was going to the make an order to Fastenal (or my local box stores) and put together a plastic bin for commonly needed set (grub) screws, machine screws (flat head and other), sheet metal screws, and wood screws.

What recommendation for common sizes? I have packets of #8-32x5/16" and #8-32x1/2" set screws for Adams Rite mortise cylinders. I may need longer ones also.

I also picked up some small #3-56x3/8" flathead machine screws when I saw them because I thought they might work as cam screws. I may need to go down to 1/4" length on those. Adams Rite also has faceplate screws. I'm not sure what the size is, but I have a good number of #6-32 that I can down to length (probably 1/4")
I have a ton of small machine screws in jars. I'll probably sort through those and see what might be useful.
I also have a good number of wood screws--but mainly slotted plain steel types for antique furniture, not for use in strikes and locks. I will have to make a list of common sizes and length for those also. I saw that many smiths use longer 3" screws on strikes which makes sense, so those will go into the kit also.

I guess sheet metal screws would be used on panic bars and door closers--and commercial door work.

Suggestions? I don't know all the sizes, and since I have a good number of things to start with, don't want to buy a "locksmith assortment" when I can get specific items for less.
Pete
Sioux Falls

[stratmando]

I would look at Locksmith assortments for types they include, also some Allen set screws, not sure if same as Grub screws. Klein Makes a 6 way Tapping Screw Driver, 6-32, 8-32, 10-24, 1/4-20, couple others. Handy, may need some Drywall screws, different lengths, as well as Tap Cons.

[Safecrackin Sammy]

About the only thing I keep regular in my go tool bag is #8 and #10 one inch sheet metal drill tip screws. A couple of 8/32 x1 combination screws that come in most strike packs. And a few coarse drywall/deck screws up to two inch.

Most screws I have are scavenged from old locks/surplus new from installs. Never throw anything away til you strip it for screws and parts.

I wouldnt rush off to buy too many til you see what you use. It will vary by job residential/commercial etc.

[demux]

Completely agree with Sammy, what you use will be highly dependent on the job you're doing and the type/grade of hardware you're working with. What I find is that I rarely need 50 or 100 of anything, but instead I need 4 or 6 of 10 different things. Your best bet might be to invest in a small multi-compartment organizer with at least 20-30 compartments, then start tossing bits in with like bits as you remove/replace things. This will serve you well for other small components beyond just screws as well.

Personally, I usually have at least one box of some common screw sizes nearby anytime I'm on a job, but those are not lock specific, they're just things I find I use a lot. That usually includes at least some #8 and #10 machines screws, and some #8 and #10 wood and sheet metal screws in various lengths. For machine screws I tend to buy long, as it's pretty straightforward to cut them down in the field if you have to. Anything beyond that, I probably won't have on me unless I know I'm going to need it.

[stratmando]

Nice to know what you will work with, I like to be ready for anything, whatever pops up, like in Electrical, most things use, not counting 6-33, 8-32, use10-24, but many ceiling Boxes use 10-32, I guess buy Tapcons as you need, I prefer to have on hand, bites to run for the right screws, some will use what is on hand, but not correct, sounds like you want to be ready, like above, throw nothing out.

[Peter Martin]

Thanks for everyone's input. It's difficult to continually think ahead. Commercial narrow metal doors are pretty common everywhere, and they have closers, mortise locks (what size hold the lock to the door anyway?), and panic bars--and all associated problems of working with metal.
Residential... well, you never know what oddball KIK or deadbolts you might find. Most fasteners are not broken but the wood stripped, so its good to have longer wood screw substitutes. Nice to know what to put in a kit ahead of time.
Pete

[mastersmith]

Peter I don't see anyone mentioning hinge screws. Commercial doors use a lot of 12-24 X 3/8" undercut flat head for hinges strikes and mortise lock mounting in metal doors. Nearly always there is room behind the threads, so longer can be used. Closers use 1/4-20 screws for mounting, different lengths and head shapes depending on brand. I replace a lot of mortise lock "scalp" plate screws, they are 8-32 X 3/16" under cut. If the reason for replacing the screw is stripped threads, you have a different ball game. You can now buy replacement hinge screws that are #14's with a #12 head. These are awesome and once installed you don't really know they are different. For wood doors and wood frames you want a bit longer replacement screw, usually #14 flat head. This will allow it to find new wood and "snug up". I also use my share of threaded inserts and pop rivets. I agree with the earlier comment that you just need a few different sizes to figure out what you will use. Good luck with this little project!

[jeffmoss26]

Major makes some nice assortments. We have an old Zipco cam screw kit at work that's been added to over the years.
https://www.majormfg.com/c-63-speciality-screws.aspx

Keedex has all these tamper proof screws
https://www.keedex.com/keedex-tamper-resistant-screws/

[Peter Martin]

Harbor Freight isn't always a great choice, but I picked these up... because most of my wood screws were slotted. I still need to go to my local Ace and pick up a box of #8-3" cabinet screws.

[Peter Martin]

Time to sort thru all these instead of picking through them whenever I need something. Mainly sheet metal and machine screws.
I will separate the useful ones into a storage container for the odd jobs where I'm going to be looking for the right width, length, or head shape.

[stratmando]

You could take a Magnet to Separate the Stainless from the Ferrous. Didn't see Brass, I should say Ferrous from non Ferrous.

[Peter Martin]

First part of organizing this is done. Some will be useful. I will still need to add more common sizes I'll need for lock repairs that are missing.

[GWiens2001]

The tape will come off rather quickly.

On that type of container, I write the sizes on the inside of the cover in Sharpie marker, backwards so that it reads correctly when the lid is closed.

Just a suggestion.

Gordon

[demux]

A roll of white electrical tape also makes a good base for labeling things, and is a bit more durable than any masking/painters tape. I usually keep a roll in my truck for that purpose.

[Black85vette]

I usually stock the longest of each screw size I need and then cut to length rather than stocking every possible length I might need. I also carry a couple of my most common drill / tap sets. I can always drill out and tap to a size screw I have on hand.