Requesting key machine recommendations

[EternalSecurity]

I'm in the process of deciding which key machines to purchase. I've settled on the HPC 1200 for a code cutter, but I'm torn about which duplicator to purchase. I'm considering the Bravo III or the Ilco 044. Thoughts, anyone?

[Dimmy Locks]

I'm in the process of deciding which key machines to purchase. I've settled on the HPC 1200 for a code cutter, but I'm torn about which duplicator to purchase. I'm considering the Bravo III or the Ilco 044. Thoughts, anyone?

Both will do "eactly what it says on the tin", as will older designs like the Rekord.

I've not actually flicked my copy machine power switch for years, and actually taken the copier out of my van (which reminds me, i must move it from my hallway lol)
I prefer to cut copies to code, but it's just a personal preference, copying a worn key can actually increase lock wear further too, IMHO.

[helix]

.... copying a worn key can actually increase lock wear further too, IMHO.

How does that happen, Dimmy?
Does it wear the bottom of the drivers or something?

[Dimmy Locks]

A lot of wear , especially in pin locks occurs not only on the tip of the bottom pin due to friction with the key, but also, as the key and the bottom pin wear it causes wear at the sheer line too.

A worn key, by definition is now shallower than intended, lowering the bottom pin , in turn lowering the contact point with the top pin. As this is usually a gradual process, the lock will wear at the sheer line as the pins start to rub ( along with normal wear you'd expect under the tension being applied by the pin spring).
Copying a worn key in effect is cutting a shallower key then the lock was pinned to work with. yes it will work, but thats because the sheer line wear is allowing for it.

Strip down an old lock and observe the sheer line and drill holes. Often you will notice the drill holes have become oval in shape at the sheer line and the sheer surfaces will have grooves clearly visible either side of the drill holes.
All locks suffer wear of this kind, but particularly pin and wafer locks.

Cutting a key to code will help compensate against this wear by lifting the pins back to the designed sheer line.

[helix]

Hey, thanks, Dimmy.
Excellent explanation.
I'm glad you said the drivers, haha, means that I am actually learning something LOL.

It didn't occur to me about it wearing the plug, though, but it
does make sense from your explanation.
Thanks again.

[Dimmy Locks]

I'm glad you said the drivers, haha, means that I am actually learning something LOL.

I dont recall mentioning "drivers" at all <g>

I only refer to pins as bottom top or master, being an old fuddy duddy Englishman. heehe

Glad I was able to explain it coherrently

[helix]

well you meant the bottom of the top pins, but? and a little bit of
key scratches on the bottom of the bottom ones?

[Mad Mick]

Since Dimmy mentions wafer locks, you can see the effects of wear on an old lock from a driver's door of a car which doesn't have remote lock/unlock. Go to a wrecker's yard and get the driver's lock from the oldest looking vehicle there. Take it home, clean and strip it down, making sure to lay out the bits in order. What you will probably see on the wafers, is a slight rounding of the edges and you will probably see signs of 'grooving' forming on the edges of the cylinder walls.

[Chrispy]

Plus, the reason that locksmiths cut auto keys back to factory specs is because of the wear on the key as well. It's a two way street.