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Starter lock help

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
Forum rules
Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.

Starter lock help

Postby aurer » 14 Mar 2006 1:30

Ive just started my try at lockpicking, but have had sporatic success. The lock I used opened after about 5 minutes of wrenching during a commercial, so I have no idea what I did. I was wondering if anyone has any idea on how to dismantle this lock to a point I can use it for training. Ive looked over the forums and the guides in the viewtopic.php?t=10715 post and havent found anything that seemed to be about a keyed padlock.

http://www.imagekafe.com/image.php?image=6dad6.jpg
http://www.imagekafe.com/image.php?image=127fc.jpg

I moved up the plastic sheath to expose the true shell of the device.

Also, i'm an engineer, so if someone can find a solution to this, you're better than an college educated engineer, so grats.
aurer
 
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Postby aurer » 14 Mar 2006 1:34

Forgot to mention. The reason I want to take this apart is because when i'm raking it with tension, I can slowly release tension and hear pins drop, but it wont open and I want to see where i'm going wrong.
aurer
 
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Postby Octillion » 14 Mar 2006 1:51

During manufacturing, the pins and springs (along with a few other components) are dropped into holes machined in the lock body. The holes are then capped off with brass plugs, which are then filed level to the lock body, giving the appearance that the lock is one solid piece of brass. When these brass plugs are heated until they start to glow red, then quickly cooled in water, they will pop right off.

Heat the side of the lock the pins are on with a propane torch. When it starts to glow deep red, quickly drop the lock into iced water, and it will fly apart. The springs may be weakened from the heating and cooling, but you will see how the lock operates in much more detail than any picture can. I tried this out on a Brinks padlock, and the springs were not damaged that bad, and still worked when I pieced the lock back together.
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Postby Demonithese » 14 Mar 2006 3:26

would this work with a cruddy magnum brass lock (cost $5)
<Insert witty Sig here>
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Postby Octillion » 14 Mar 2006 3:45

Yeps
Octillion
 
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Postby aurer » 14 Mar 2006 4:31

2 quick questions about the procedure.
1. Will using a gas powered forge make the lock unusable? (Firing the whole thing to red)
2. After the procedure, will it be usable after I make some removable plugs?
aurer
 
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Postby aurer » 14 Mar 2006 4:39

Woah, I was just raking it again and got it open. Its those darned infomercials.
aurer
 
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Postby Octillion » 14 Mar 2006 4:53

aurer wrote:2 quick questions about the procedure.
1. Will using a gas powered forge make the lock unusable? (Firing the whole thing to red)
2. After the procedure, will it be usable after I make some removable plugs?


1. That should be fine, just don't forget about it in there.
2. Yes, but it may be a bit rough on the outside from oxidation, so cleaning it off with steel wool should keep operating smoothly. The springs may need to be replaced.

aurer wrote:Woah, I was just raking it again and got it open. Its those darned infomercials.


That will happen. Try your hand at pin by pin picking. If you find the plug cocks just a little bit, then stops, it's probably got some security pins in there. Spool pins are pretty common in brass padlocks, and I’d be willing to bet you’ve got some. Search the forum for more info on how to pick them.
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Postby aurer » 14 Mar 2006 5:05

Ok, I did a simple search, and found out what a security pin is. Someone said that it requires a feather touch on the tension tool so that it doesnt lock up and the others dont drop, true?

Also, i've ran through it with a diamond and a hook, and i'm pretty sure its the 3rd pin from the front out of 4.
aurer
 
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Postby aurer » 14 Mar 2006 5:42

Or it could just be that the 4th pin is the highest spot on the key and the 3rd is lowest.
aurer
 
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Postby Octillion » 14 Mar 2006 15:33

Start off by picking it "normally", with an average amount of torque. When a spool pin gets caught, keep a very light torque while individually pushing up on each pin. Any pins with caught spools will tend to reverse the plug. While pushing up on the spool pin, allow the plug to turn back until the spool pin pops above the sheer line. Repeat this as necessary for other spool pins. Some other pins may fall back down, so just re-pick them.

Here is an animation from another LP101 member that may help you see what's going on:
http://www.geocities.com/digital_blue_site/animation4.avi
Octillion
 
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Postby Bahrg » 14 Mar 2006 20:52

Would it be possible just to drill out those brass plugs? Ive noticed if I look carefully on my brass padlock you can actually see the plugs. Im thinking if they could be drilled out slowly it may damage the springs less... or then again maybe more ;)
Cause if they catch you in the back seat
Trying to pick her locks,
They're gonna send you back to mother
In a cardboard box. (Gilmour, Waters)
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Postby vector40 » 14 Mar 2006 23:13

Uh... if you drill out the chamber caps, what's going to keep the springs in?
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