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by Treeson » 26 Mar 2006 20:07
raimundo wrote:I just skimmed the thread but if no one else has mentioned it, the tensor itself can sometimes bind. the test is to release your hold on it, and if its loose in the keyway, its not binding, but if its stuck, even slightly, it is pinching between part of the plug and the cylinder wall. thats why its nice to have a few different widths of tensor, and also why a tensor with sharp square edges should be sanded to round those edges.
Wow, thanks a lot raimundo!
Thath's some really good advice, I've been completely overlooking my tenstion wrench lately, poor little guy... he needs some love  .
Reading that helped me go back on a lock Ive been having trouble with and succesfully open it much easier by checing for my binding wrench.
Looking at locks from my early days of picking, there are litterally cuts in the cylinder wall where my wrench has binded against the cylinder. Ill have to look at this more in the furture.
Cheers,
Treeson
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Treeson
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by Olcaytug » 27 Mar 2006 1:52
my friend:
I think you should feel easily when the first pin you are pushing reaches the shear line, if you are using a low quality lock it is easier. First, it is easy to push the pin, then it is diffcult! Thats all.
It gets messed as you bind more and more pins. That is why I can pin pick a4pin pad lock in 2 seconds, but a 5 pin cylinder in 1 minute, and always use only raking on a 7pin euro-profile!
You can hear a 'click' if the first pin is binding and you are pushing it.
You can even feel the 'click' if you are holding the lock in your hands and if you concentrate enough!
Regards
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Olcaytug
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by Olcaytug » 27 Mar 2006 1:56
by the way, 7 pin euro-profiles always have manyt security pins too, and you usually need to start from the beginning a few times.. thats why I can't bear pin picking them! But I can pin-pick them
you will, too, youngling; one day you will....
Regards
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Olcaytug
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by p1ckf1sh » 27 Mar 2006 5:04
Treeson wrote:raimundo wrote:I just skimmed the thread but if no one else has mentioned it, the tensor itself can sometimes bind. the test is to release your hold on it, and if its loose in the keyway, its not binding, but if its stuck, even slightly,
Reading that helped me go back on a lock Ive been having trouble with and succesfully open it much easier by checing for my binding wrench.
I don't know how and where you guys apply your tension tools, but I generally used the upper part keyway itself because I could get it in quite far but this sticking issue gave me trouble occasionally. I tried to put it into the lower part of the keyway (seen euro-style), right up to the first, but not quite touching it, but I found that especially with very light or pulsing tension while bogota raking I had the problem of repeatedly dropping it. Then I cut up some earplugs to tiny slices and fixed them to the business end of the tension wrench. Now that little spongy part can be compressed, inserted and will stay where it is even with no tension applied.
I have a very little bit of feedback lost, but especially for raking this is not too important. Try it, your mileage may vary though.
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p1ckf1sh
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by Treeson » 27 Mar 2006 15:55
Hey p1ckf1sh,
Thanks a lot for that advice. I think Im definetly going to try and attach some foaam to the end of my tensssion wrench to see if I can tell the difference. I think that is a really good idea.
The lock I was having trouble with was/is a fairly easy lock from my extremme n00b days, I have long since paassed the difficulties this lock represents, but just remember it being a trouble and was just messinng around with it and I think I was having so much troubble because of a binding wrenc h.
PS- Sorry for my bad typing right now, my keyboard is freaking out and is being a pain so II guess Im going to ave to restart...
Cheers,
Treeson
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Treeson
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