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Corbin Russwin

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
Forum rules
Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.

Postby SilverIce85 » 22 Jan 2006 19:18

thanks for the advice concerning the plug spinner, aqua, it worked, finally got the sucker opened, it was great, thanks for the help
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Postby ndgreen » 23 Jan 2006 0:39

:?:
In the second photo posted, it would seem that (given the position of the striker plate) that the viewer is looking at the INSIDE of the door. If this is so, how common is it to have a keyway on the inside of a dorm room? Is it a deadbolt that can be locked in the open position? Can you open the door without the key? What happens if there is a fire?


N.
Sometimes I beat the lock, sometimes the lock beats me!
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Postby vector40 » 23 Jan 2006 1:49

Could be an outward-opening door, I guess. Little unorthodox.
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Postby SilverIce85 » 23 Jan 2006 11:31

no, the lock is on the outside of the door and it opens in towards the room
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Postby ndgreen » 23 Jan 2006 17:09

SilverIce,

If that lock is on the outside of that door, it isn't very secure! The faceplate can be removed and the bolt is clearly visible at the side! What is on the inside? A latch-type knob?

N.
Sometimes I beat the lock, sometimes the lock beats me!
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Postby SilverIce85 » 23 Jan 2006 19:26

yeah, its just a small latch that you turn to move the deadbolt, i can pick the lock now in about 20 seconds and have it open in under a min, (i have to use a plug spinner)
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Postby vector40 » 23 Jan 2006 19:55

There is either misunderstanding, misdescription, or deception here. It is functionally impossible for that door to open in the opposite direction that the photographed cylinder is facing. That would mean there was no jam.
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Postby ndgreen » 23 Jan 2006 20:45

Vector,

That's what I was trying to get at, without sounding accusing. The described location (dorm door) and the photos just don't gel in my mind. I though I smelled a rodent...

N.
Sometimes I beat the lock, sometimes the lock beats me!
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Postby Aqua » 23 Jan 2006 22:44

SilverIce85 wrote:thanks for the advice concerning the plug spinner, aqua, it worked, finally got the sucker opened, it was great, thanks for the help

Happy to help, mate!

Aye!® :)
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Postby Olcaytug » 24 Jan 2006 17:49

SilverIce85 wrote:thanks for the advice concerning the plug spinner, aqua, it worked, finally got the sucker opened, it was great, thanks for the help


But you really don't need any plug spinner for that; just a few minutes ago I opened a lock with a similiar problem very easily using the simple method I mentioned.

Anyway, a plug spinner is always handy to have.

Regards...
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Postby Squelchtone » 23 Jun 2006 20:17

Omikron wrote:For starters, how about keeping questions to one thread...hmmm?

Anyway, what you need to do is take the flat of your pick, and hold it against the bottom of the keyway as it rotates, allowing you to turn past 180 degrees. It may take some practice, but it's not too hard.


I came up against the same thing happening today on a Russwin-Safe (now Corbin/Russwin) lock. It's a A1011-9N keyway. The lock is master pinned too.

I have the master key, and normally when the key is turned to the left at about 1 o'clock you engage a spring and it pulls the 3 metal triangle do-hickeys into the door frame (yeah where's my locksmith's terminology dictionary when I need it)

When I use my picks on this lock, I can rake the 6 pins in 10 seconds but when I turn the plug it stops at 1 o'clock because the driver pins are falling back down into the keyway. If I rock the keyway back and fourth quickly enough I can get it to rotate past 1 o'clock and hit 12 which opens the door.

I was very surprised how quickly I got these open, I tried 3 others and it was just as quick. I blame it on the master pins.. more chances to open, and looking at the key, it's an easy cut and the pick I was using has the same round valleys as the key's cuts. I used this pick http://www.lockpickshop.com/p-SP-03.html (the left side with the two peaks pointing down) This is quickly becoming my favorite pick, I use both the left side and the large half diamond on the other end.

In looking up the keyway number, (9N), I found a great resource for anyone learning how many pins a lock has and how to ID a brand by the warding.

http://www.kaba-ilco.com/key_systems/pdf/Key_Blank_Directory_catalog_60_2004_NA_Cylinder_2.pdf

My key is on section 2, page 56. Very useful reference!

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Postby raimundo » 24 Jun 2006 9:03

Remember that up is down and down is up depending on whether your in europe or north america, but as everyone says, the flat of a pick should lift all the little drivers back into the cylinder, but for me the quick way is just a rake with a half diamond, it saves the time of reversing your pick and using the flat side. if you rake going in and its not opened, the rake comeing out should be all it takes, you are raking the drivers out of the part of the keyway that is cut through to the cylinder, not the part that holds the bottom pins in plug.
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