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by Exodus5000 » 11 Nov 2006 17:14
I have a Best I-Core that I'm going to try to make a cut-away out of. However it's still mounted in it's shell. I find that the peterson I-core tension tools are worthless, I've never had any luck with them. Is there any way I can remove the core without drilling? Or perhaps any other way I can make the lock conducive to setting at the control shearline? Maybe lubing the heck out of it?
I know it's a long shot, but I submit my last hope to the lp101 community.
[deadlink]http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/6973/exodus5000ac5.jpg
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by Romstar » 11 Nov 2006 17:53
I assume you don't have the change key for that lock.
Are you really having that much difficulty with the I-Core tools? Take a light to the cylinder and see if they are round holes or not. Its possible they are the modified holes.
If tehy are round, you just have to practice with that darn wrench. There is a certain way to hold it that gets it locked into the holes.
Good luck.
Romstar
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by maxxed » 11 Nov 2006 18:05
Without putting preasure on the proper shearline you are going to be relying on a fluke. It does happen and I have done it twice after 200+ attempts. Try rakeing, bumping and rapping see what happens
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by I Pik U » 11 Nov 2006 20:19
I had a similar situation as you, trying to remove a Best IC core from a Mortise cylinder housing. I too used the Peerson IC tension wrenches, but was only able to pick the cylinder at the normal shear line.
Then I had an idea. I drilled a small hole in the side of the cylinder housing where the control lug that holds the cylinder in is. Just drill through the housing to reach the lug. I then put a poke tool into this hole and wrapped an elastic band around it. The poke tool now was applying constant force to the lug. I then tried repicking to the core removal shear line and it worked! I was then able to remove the core.
 Been playing with locks since '68.
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by VashTSPD » 11 Nov 2006 22:16
I was wondering what the purpose of the holes on the bottom of the inside of the lock were for. My guess would be so you could change the bottom pins by spinning the core 180 degrees and dropping the pins out of those holes so you wouldn't have to remove the core.
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by Romstar » 11 Nov 2006 22:54
VashTSPD wrote:I was wondering what the purpose of the holes on the bottom of the inside of the lock were for. My guess would be so you could change the bottom pins by spinning the core 180 degrees and dropping the pins out of those holes so you wouldn't have to remove the core.
Your guess would be right.
The I-Core tools took advantage of that design by making a tool that fit those holes, and allowed you to pick the lock to the sleeve.
Romstar
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by I Pik U » 12 Nov 2006 23:21
spinning the core 180 degrees and dropping the pins out of those holes
The holes are too small in diametre for the pins to drop out. Good thing, or it'd jamb up while rotating the key.
 Been playing with locks since '68.
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by melvin2001 » 12 Nov 2006 23:29
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by Romstar » 12 Nov 2006 23:53
Romstar wrote:VashTSPD wrote:I was wondering what the purpose of the holes on the bottom of the inside of the lock were for. My guess would be so you could change the bottom pins by spinning the core 180 degrees and dropping the pins out of those holes so you wouldn't have to remove the core.
Your guess would be right. The I-Core tools took advantage of that design by making a tool that fit those holes, and allowed you to pick the lock to the sleeve. Romstar
I gotta learn to pay more attention sometimes.
You don't spin the core to dump the pins, the pins come out the top. The bottom holes are for the ejector tool.
Man, the doc is right, I gotta sleep more.
Romstar
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by melvin2001 » 13 Nov 2006 0:20
actually the brinks home key padlock that you can get at wal mart does exactly that. when the core is inside the lock the key can only turn about 90 degrees because of the design of the part that retains the ball bearings. but when you remove the core (by unscrewing a hex screw that is under the shackle) the plug can spin a full 180 and the pins will drop out a set of holes in the bottom. also a brinks deadbolt lock i acquired had a slot cut in the bottom to allow the pins to drop out, but the slot was covered by a metal slide cover (similar to those found of the bible of many kik cylinders) and had a small peice of teflon that was the same thickness of the housing. this peice of teflon ensured that the pins wouldn't get stuck when rotating. maybe i will take some pictures when i get home if anyone is interested (i am in NY till tomorrow night)
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by d_goldsmith » 13 Nov 2006 6:14
I'd like to see those pictures.
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