Kryptonite combination bike lock

[ReverseLogic]

I found one of these lying along the roadside, cut, presumably by a theif who stole the bike. It had been sitting there for like a month, so I assumed (perhaps inaccurately; we'll see if moral qualms get to me) no one was going to return and claim it. So I picked it up and returned back to my dorm room with it, and am currently trying to figure out how to open it. I've got a rough idea of how it is constructed and have read skeleton_keys post about it. I'm using a fairly thin mechanic's pick to try and get at it and feel the notches in the wheels, but am having a difficult time feeling any of them. I don't suppose anyone has any advice on how to defeat this, or perhaps can direct me to some schematics as to the exact construction of the lock. I have a very good idea of what it must look like inside, but am not sure if there are any sort of anti-cracking mechanisms involved with the device. Any information would be welcome. Thanks in advance.


-RL[/img]

[Timmy321]

I had also wondered about this...

[Chucklz]

This is one of those things in which a hint is all that I feel I shoudl give. Imagine it were a pin tumbler lock. No tools except your hands. Tension applied by pulling.

[Timmy321]

so you pull on it then keep moving the number thing? till it gives slightly?

[ReverseLogic]

I think I see what you're getting at chucklz. I have a drawing (pardon my poor MS paint skills) which will help explain what I'm about to say, provided I can find a place to upload it. The top portion of the diagram is a (very) rough schematic of one of the wheels. each of the nine sections corresponds with one of the numbers visible from the outside (yes, I know there is one more spot for a dot, but this is just a rough layout) Part L is the latching mechanism, which is put through the wheels while they are all unlocked. After the latch is inserted, the wheels are then turned, and the entire device is locked. Pulling on the cord will cause the latch to bind on the wheels, preventing it from moving.

Now with the "picking." With the diagram (which incidently, is a picture of what I believe is happening inside the lock that I have) wheel two is the first one to bind. I have determined this because it provides me with the most friction when I try to turn the wheel when I am pulling on the cord. The lighter parts between the wedges of the numbered sections in the diagram represent areas which stick out from the rest of the wheel, which is presumaby there to throw off the feel of the would be picker, as it increases the force which is needed to get the wheel to turn. This is probably what is keeping me from opening the lock. My next bet is to turn the wheel to the number I want to test out, while pulling on the cord, mind you, and rock it back and forth, between the areas which stick out. If I can feel no friction when rocking it back and forth, chances are that is the right number. Repeat the process for the remaining 3 numbers (which in accordance with my diagram would be (3, 4, and then 1 respectively) and bam, the lock is open. Does that sound like I'm on the right track? Thanks again.

-RL

[GilbertGrape]

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