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Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
Forum rules
Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe
The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.
by laf » 6 Feb 2009 20:41
I know I am anoying with my questions but I really want to improve my skillz...
I just red the post made by db about binding pins wich is very helpful, congrats! Ive learned that you must find the binding pins first, Can you open a high security lock without finding them? I mean will the lock open if I pick the ''wrong pin''?
thanks alot lp101
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laf
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by Olson Burry » 6 Feb 2009 20:54
On pin tumbler locks, there will always be a binding pin, or that which at least binds more than the others and therefore is the first one you can set.
If you've fully read and understood the reasoning behind why there will always be a binding pin or at least that which will bind first then you will know this is true.
It may be possible to set the wrong pin first, second or any time down the line if you are tackling security pins like spools, however as a general rule of thumb you will end up un-setting those pins whilst properly setting newly found spools or mushrooms as you experience the lock and ascertain the binding and correct picking order.
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Olson Burry
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by Satan130 » 7 Feb 2009 1:56
in theory: no. there should only be one binding pin and thus only that pin can be picked
in practice: sort-of. you defenatly should try for the binding pin, but sometimes things like gunk, or as ^^^ said, specific pins will make them set, though it is a fickle thing at best.
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Satan130
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by raimundo » 15 Feb 2009 12:35
Like so many things, that work in theory, in practice, the theory dosent really hold up that well, Two pins could take each a half of the pressure, and either of them could be set first.
Remember that the plug is in the cylinder with one or two thousands of an inch tolerance between the plug and the cylinder. your tensor blade applies the tension at the front of the locks, and the binding force will be stronger there but the length of the plug can be seen as being on the tensor and with a greater wiggle the further back you get from the front of the lock, think of the tensor as the stem on which the plug is mounted, and the farthest end of the plug is capable of moving in that .002" tolerance while the front of the plug is pinned down by the tensor.
This sort of thing is not taken into your original theory, which is also affected by damage to the lock, defect on a micro scale that may be present, lubrication, dirt, rust, sticking parts of the boltworks, and sometimes counter rotation springs in the boltworks. The theory has so many exceptions to the rule that its not worth thinking about this simple theory.
Wake up and smell the Kafka!!!
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raimundo
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by laf » 15 Feb 2009 20:26
If I understand your explanation, the theory of the binding pin is not something I must rely on? thanks
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laf
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by raimundo » 26 Feb 2009 10:14
Its a good basic explaination for newbies, but just so that they begin to understand some of the complexities, its certainly not answering all the variables. If you need an intellectual model to understand the concepts, this is only the beginning.
Wake up and smell the Kafka!!!
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raimundo
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by 5thcorps » 26 Feb 2009 10:18
Invest in a cutaway model.
"Save the whales, Trade them in for valuable prizes."
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5thcorps
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by laf » 27 Feb 2009 22:31
yeah that is the next thing I will order from lockpickshop.com
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laf
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