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by dlong » 11 Jan 2010 10:56
With all other things being equal -- which is a better lock in terms of breaking and entering, the Schlage BE365 or the Kwikset SmartCode/SmartScan/Smartkey?
Bonus Question #1: And can anyone tell me if the cylinder is the same between the Schlage BE365 and FE595?
Bonus Question #2: Is the cylinder in the Schlage BE365 and FE595 mounted the same way? There was a comment on the Schlage facebook wall regarding how the cylinder in the BE365 is "mounted", making it harder to pick and/or (?) bump. Any truth to this?
-d
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by ElAbogado » 11 Jan 2010 18:37
dlong wrote:With all other things being equal -- which is a better lock in terms of breaking and entering, the Schlage BE365 or the Kwikset SmartCode/SmartScan/Smartkey?
Bonus Question #1: And can anyone tell me if the cylinder is the same between the Schlage BE365 and FE595?
Bonus Question #2: Is the cylinder in the Schlage BE365 and FE595 mounted the same way? There was a comment on the Schlage facebook wall regarding how the cylinder in the BE365 is "mounted", making it harder to pick and/or (?) bump. Any truth to this?
-d
The Kwikset Smart Deadbolt is a Grade 1 Lock...but everyone on this board knows that I don't like them. I'm not sure about the Schlage FE595. I'd bet that they are about equal. I'd take a jimmy proof deadbolt (interlocking) any day over either of them, like a big Yale with a Medeco, Abloy, or Marks rim cylinder.
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by jdislandlock » 11 Jan 2010 19:48
the fe 595 and be365 the be 365 is a deadbolt, and fe 595 is a electronic lever. not sure about pickability. i think one might be mounted vertical and one horizontal. I personally like both of these products more then any kwikset product...... especially smart key.
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by dlong » 12 Jan 2010 12:03
ElAbogado wrote:The Kwikset Smart Deadbolt is a Grade 1 Lock...but everyone on this board knows that I don't like them. I'm not sure about the Schlage FE595. I'd bet that they are about equal. I'd take a jimmy proof deadbolt (interlocking) any day over either of them, like a big Yale with a Medeco, Abloy, or Marks rim cylinder.
The BE365 is advertised as Class 2 by Schlage. I guess the question is if the Class 2 Schlage is better than a Class 1 Kwikset deadbolt in terms of breaking & entering. I was looking at 'affordable' electronic locks hovering around $150 mark. -d
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by dlong » 12 Jan 2010 12:05
jdislandlock wrote:the fe 595 and be365 the be 365 is a deadbolt, and fe 595 is a electronic lever. not sure about pickability. i think one might be mounted vertical and one horizontal.
Does mounting vertical vs horizontal make a difference in pickabilty? jdislandlock wrote:I personally like both of these products more then any kwikset product...... especially smart key.
Why? Does SmartKey make it easier to pick? -d
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by Legion303 » 12 Jan 2010 12:11
Let's see...if I'm going to break and enter, I think I would prefer the Kwikset. Wait, that's not what you were asking...but I bet it answered your question anyway. :)
-steve
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by dlong » 12 Jan 2010 12:30
Hmm .. after reading a note on a web search -- it sounds like the locks in the BE365 are not compatible with the FE575/FE595? Anyone know for sure? I ask because, I was lumping the BE with the FE in terms of breaking/entering and maybe they should not be ...
-d
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by Squelchtone » 12 Jan 2010 12:53
dlong wrote:Hmm .. after reading a note on a web search -- it sounds like the locks in the BE365 are not compatible with the FE575/FE595? Anyone know for sure? I ask because, I was lumping the BE with the FE in terms of breaking/entering and maybe they should not be ...
-d
If your concern is B&E, I wouldn't go with either residential grade Schlage or Kwikset. Instead, reinforce your door frame, put 3 inch deck screws into the strike box, and replace all hinge screws that are usually 3/4 inch brass, with 3 inch deck screws, the sand colored ones. Get a MAG or Don-Jo door reinforcer that wraps around the door so the wood doesn't splinter as easily when kicked in, or install Door Jamb Armor. Then get a Medeco or Abloy deadbolt and call it a day. If budget is an issue, at least get the 3 inch deck screws and a Grade 1 Schlage B600 deadbolt for ~$100 from a local locksmith. Don't get the Grade 2 stuff from Home Depot, and btw, that Grade 1 Kwikset Smartkey, only the actual deadbolt that slides out of the door is Grade 1, the other parts of the lock are Grade 2. (Medeco and Abloy deadbolts will run you $100-$250 so I realize not everyone has that kind of cash on hand.) good luck! Squelchtone

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by ElAbogado » 12 Jan 2010 12:59
squelchtone wrote:dlong wrote: Grade 1 Kwikset Smartkey, only the actual deadbolt that slides out of the door is Grade 1, the other parts of the lock are Grade 2. (Medeco and Abloy deadbolts will run you $100-$250 so I realize not everyone has that kind of cash on hand.)
good luck! Squelchtone
Overall great advice about the weakest link of any residential door. Are you sure that the entire lock (Kwikset Smartlock) is not a garde 1? It only makes sense that the entire lock must pass all requirements of a grade 1 to be labeled such. Your advice on upgrading the door and studs with additional hardware should probably be made into a sticky somewhere, as it is far more important that the selection of the proper deadbolt. El Abogado
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by dlong » 12 Jan 2010 13:32
squelchtone wrote:Instead, reinforce your door frame, put 3 inch deck screws into the strike box, and replace all hinge screws that are usually 3/4 inch brass, with 3 inch deck screws, the sand colored ones. Get a MAG or Don-Jo door reinforcer that wraps around the door so the wood doesn't splinter as easily when kicked in, or install Door Jamb Armor. Then get a Medeco or Abloy deadbolt and call it a day.
Most of that has been done recently as part of the change. However, my reason for these locks is convenience of 'not having to carry keys' and make/giving keys to anyone else. -d
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by Squelchtone » 12 Jan 2010 15:39
ElAbogado wrote:Overall great advice about the weakest link of any residential door. Are you sure that the entire lock (Kwikset Smartlock) is not a garde 1? It only makes sense that the entire lock must pass all requirements of a grade 1 to be labeled such. El Abogado
Thanks for the good word man, I appreciate it. Here is a link to some pics I took when the Smartkey first came out: LINKThey specifically only say Grade 1 on the cardboard wrapped that the actual deadbolt part is packaged in. I will try to dig up the box and instructions and see where it says Grade 2 on the other parts.  Squelchtone
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by Squelchtone » 12 Jan 2010 15:46
dlong wrote:squelchtone wrote:Instead, reinforce your door frame, put 3 inch deck screws into the strike box, and replace all hinge screws that are usually 3/4 inch brass, with 3 inch deck screws, the sand colored ones. Get a MAG or Don-Jo door reinforcer that wraps around the door so the wood doesn't splinter as easily when kicked in, or install Door Jamb Armor. Then get a Medeco or Abloy deadbolt and call it a day.
Most of that has been done recently as part of the change. However, my reason for these locks is convenience of 'not having to carry keys' and make/giving keys to anyone else. -d
Ahh, I understand your question now. The Schlage can probably take more physical punishment, but from a hackers perspective the keypad will leave marks and more wear will occur to the buttons you press when entering the code. Then someone just has to figure out which buttons are dirtier, more worn and sit and guess your combination until they get a lockout penalty, or they get in. You could put super glue into the keyway to stop picking and bumping, but make sure to keep fresh batteries in the lock, or one night you will come home and it wont have the power to unlock and you will need to have someone drill it out to get in. If you're adventurous, you can take apart the lock and remove the lazy tailpiece behind the cylinder, this way they can pick it open and turn the lock and there's nothing behind it connecting it to the deadbolt and your door remains safely locked. The Smartscan is interesting and I like the idea, but I'm not sure its physically a beefy lock based on Kwikset's past models. I'd have to get one in my hands to form a better opinion. Let us know what you end up going with, Squelchtone

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by dlong » 20 Jan 2010 9:41
squelchtone wrote:They specifically only say Grade 1 on the cardboard wrapped that the actual deadbolt part is packaged in. I will try to dig up the box and instructions and see where it says Grade 2 on the other parts. Squelchtone
This is from the Kwikset: "Customer Service (Margarita) The smart code cylinder is a grade 1 but the rest of the lock is a grade 2.All electrical units are grade 2. sincerely, kwikset "
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