by nostromo » 11 Mar 2010 20:31
I teach non-destructive entry courses and below is what I recommend for thorough (ie- you have the time) tw work. You may not even need to do all this, just go for inserting the short length of the dogleg into the bottom of the keyway, long length to the right, and go for it.
So- you might want to try all the tw's, but use only one pick while working - either a half diamond or a medium hook. Try the tension wrench both at the bottom and at the top of the keyway, clockwise and counterclockwise.
The idea is to get a feel for how different techniques work for you. Which wrench and position stays in the keyway while working the pins? Which give you the best working room? How little working room can you have and still work the pins all the way in back?
A tighter fit in the top of the keyway gives better control. You might consider doing an 80 degree bend at the longer, 'non-dogleg' part of the wrench to make about a 4-5mm leg for working the top of the keyway. What you want is a leg that grabs the keyway without touching the first pin or wafer.
Now that you've mastered repinning a cylinder, don't be shy about setting one up with more pins (fairly similair in depth if you can, to start) so you can get used to manipulating the pins front and rear.
Getting more locks to work with will widen your skill, too. Such as auto door or trunk locks that need longer tw 'dogleg' length so you can get past the spring loaded shutter and the gap behind it to reach the keyway body.
Hope this helps!