Those darn DOOR CLOSER(s)

[unlisted]

Nope, same stuff. Not really recommended for areas requiring grease, unless your going to apply it every few weeks/months- since once it evaporates, there is no lubrication...

I use the stuff, but not for lubrication. I have other stuff more suited for that. (including grease, teflon, silicone, etc) I normally just use this for (light) rusted bolts, and adhesive removal at times. Oh and general cleaning/degreasing.

[globallockytoo]

http://www.wd40.com/faqs/

first question answers it all.

Yes it lubricates - lightly but it is not permanent and will gum up after a while.

[DOORDOCTOR]

Hard to tell what hand the door is from the pic, appears to be right handed. If so, the closer is mounted too close to the center of the door, should be about 7" from the hinge centerline to the first two mounting holes of the closer.

from the one pic, appears the Norton is on a left hand swing door and closer is mounted on pull side of door, (room side)

lubing the hinges with any grease, oil or lubricating substance is not really going to fix this problem, as i wrote in my really long post about this closer earlier, its the GEOMETRIC angle of the closer's arms.

exspook: same thing I said, its the angle of the arm is whats causing unlisted's problem,

what I think happened is that the installer (maintenance man at a college in this case) either was using an installation method used for installing those old fashioned traditional closers or thought arm is suppose to be 90 degrees from the wall. (makes me wonder if the guy even PRE-LOADED the arm to 45 degrees like the installation instructions indicate ) many door closers (Nortons/yales and dormas) have an indexing mark or flat spot on shaft and a number or letter on the arm near the star punch this is used to properly preload the closer spring during installation. basically, when door is shut (and latched) the closer spring still should be compressed alittle. not preloading the arm can cause wear and loose arms. a loose arm can cause loss of control and noises (clunking and clicking) because of the arm rattling and bumping into the top edge of the door)


hope this has helped anyone,

-Jess the door(closer)doctor

[SALocksmith]

the resistance you speak of is called "Back Check" hence the "BC" screw shown in the picture. You should be able to increase or decrease the resistance with this control, if not, there's likely something wrong with the closer. The back check is there to keep people from opening the door too quickly and hitting someone on the other side, or to keep the wind from catching a door and flinging it open. Most closers have 3 settings, some have 4.

Latch Speed
Closing Speed
Back Check
Spring Power

they are fairly self explanatory.

[HeadHunterCEO]

The good doctor has given you the correct answer. A botched install of that 1601 which has damaged the door and will cause a latent failure of the seal . Not the best closer for doors over 3'0 and should be installed with sex bolts on what looks like a 90 min door. move the foot over and bondo the holes from previous installs.

[mhole]

Sex bolts? Jeepers....

[femurat]

Sex bolts? Jeepers....

Yeah, it should have been "hex" but it was changed by the language filter (this is a "family site")

[DOORDOCTOR]

a better term for those bolts would have been thru-bolts. no risk of pulling out of screws and they are stronger to use when anchoring a closer to a door (solid core wood or metal)


femurat, for some reason I remember you from the chat (as i see your from Italy and i remember someone asked me a closer question in chat who is from Italy) how have you been?

headhunterCEO, good post there, I have recommended the same to unlisted, but i was told that he cannot do that because the norton mentioned by him(original poster) is in a college dormitory, many schools don't recommend students to mess around with or fix the doors when they see them broken,(if your a student reading my post and see a broken closer, sometimes it don't hurt to ask permission from maintenance if you can fix it, who knows, if you tell them what you will do, they may let you repair it yourself) but your post did make alot of sense to me about how to fix it and about the risk of causing seal wear.

personally, any door that has heavy usage, I recommend a cast iron closer, such as those sold by LCN

i also liked your signature (doorologist) hmm a doctor in doors too?? cute,

- Jess the door(CLOSER)doctor

[femurat]

femurat, for some reason I remember you from the chat (as i see your from Italy and i remember someone asked me a closer question in chat who is from Italy) how have you been?

Hi Jess,

you're right, it was me on chat, about one month ago. Everything fine here. Hope the same for you.

When I saw this tread I was on the point of saying "Hey, just ask doordoctor" but somebody precede me.

Cheers