A question about different torque bars

[Kodack]

I have something like a 16 tool lockpicking kit and it comes with 4 different tension wrenches.

2 of them look identical, one is slightly narrower, like .5mm narrower, and one of them has a twist in the handle.

I have heard people talk about different tensions and now I'm curious.

When should I look at trying one tension bar over another? I have done all my picking with the bar that has the twist in it so far.

[CaptHook]

Keep trying different wrenches till you find what gives you the best feedback. Even at that, it can and will vary from lock to lock for you. Some locks take a "flimsy" wrench to be able to feel anything, others you may find a heavy one works better for you.
Remember its all about feel, what works best is what works best for you.
Chuck

[Romstar]

Tension, and by result, tension tools are one of the most over looked aspects in lock picking.

The two most common types of tension are loose fit, and tight fit. After that, you get the issue of rigid and spring tension.

Lets look at the first type, loose and tight fit.

Regular, American style tension predominantly uses the loose fit technique. This technique depends on the tool being twisted in the keyway to get an adequate grab on the plug. The benefit to this is that you have several different places you can put your tension wrench. Also, you aren't required to carry as many tension tools.
A drawback is that the tension tool can lose it's grip, or slip completely out of the lock. This of course requires you to start all over again each time this happens. Also, because you may have to put the tool in a poor location, it can hamper access to the pins by the pick.


Tight fit, is often refered to as the "European" method. This method requires that you have tension bars that fit tightly into the keyway of the lock. The results in very efficient transmission of feedback. Less slipage, or movement, and often better access for the pick into the lock.
A drawback here is that you must carry more tools than the American style, and also, because the tension tool fits tightly into the lock, it leaves very tell tale scratches.

The next distinction is of course rigid vs. flex tension.

You will notice that some of the tension tools have a twist in them, and others do not. The twisted, or twist flex tools are very aptly named. The twist causes the wrench to flex slightly, preventing you from really forcing the tension without seriously deflecting to wrench.

The upside of this twist is actually two fold. Looking at the non twisted wrench, you will see that when it is inserted into the lock, you will be pushing a narrow edge with your fingers. This can be uncomfortable, so the twist gives you a wider, flat surface to push on.

Also, the twist causes the pressure to be spread out across a wider, larger area and this causes the handle of the wrench to spring, or bend slightly, thus reducing the overall amount of tension. This effect is enhanced or diminished depending on where you rest your finger. Closer gives harder tension, farther away gives less tension.

Rigid tension tools commonly do not have a bend in the wrench. If a bend does exist, it is made AFTER the upper or "L" bend.
Rigid tension gives you much greater feedback due to the fact that a rigid object transfers energy, or movement in a better fashion than a springy object. Also, rigid tension tools are commonly made from different steel, thus adding to their rigidity.

One way to get rigid tension tools that are comfortable to use, yet still have the required strength is to make them from round stock. .090" spring steel, or stainless "music wire" can be formed into an "L" shape, similar to a standard wrench. Then, two flats are ground or filed into the sides of the part that goes into the lock.

Learning to choose wich tension tool to use follows very few rules, which is unfortunately the reason why it is talked about so little.

Typically, higher security locks, or just locks made to better standards require a more gentle tension. Cheaper locks, commonly require more tension. Although these two "rules' often have exceptions where security pins are involved.

In the end, much of the technique, and therefore choice often results from experience. It's my recomendation that you begin with light tension and move to higher tension if required.

Experimentation will be a great teacher for this.
Romstar

[Exodus5000]

^ What he said.

[quicklocks]

couldn't have said it better if at all like that

[pickersRus]

Leave it to romstar , another fact filled post.........but with that said I always get better results using the tension wrench which is bent.

[seahawk]

if i would romstar i'd write a book

[Romstar]

if i would romstar i'd write a book

Funny you say that.

I am working on one right now.

Romstar

[Buggs41]

Romstar,

Will it have a 'search' feature? LOL!

[Romstar]

Romstar,

Will it have a 'search' feature? LOL!

Oddly enough, it's called an index.

Romstar

[WhiteHat]

I have moments when I'm reading hard copy stuff where I try to execute commands on it.

reading a refference book and want to find something? left hand tries to hit ctrl+F

liked a particular quote in another book... ctrl+C.... doh.. doesn't coppy.

once when a post-it note fell off the bottom of my monitor, I instinctively move my mouse cursor to try and pick it up and stick it back on.....

[Luke]

Matter of fact, Romstars first tensioners were the tight fit kind, and you can see how this would benefit a new lockpicker saving him/her from all the troubles of a torque wrench falling out.
Actually i have a habit on locks that require more than usual torque if the wrench is at the top and i generally use a HPC long double ended twist flex that when the lock pops the wrench goes shooting across the room, it once it the dog, and the dog really wasnt happy... Poor lavender...

Just a piece of trivia for you or Youse as Tasmanians would say

Keep working,
Luke Cahir