cledry wrote:The main thing you need to check is the spacing when you key different locks with the same keyway. Just because a KW1 slides in doesn't mean the spacing is the same. You can use any depths in theory, for example your key could use Kwikset spacing but you could use Schlage depths and use corresponding Schlage length pins thus giving you more changes than a Kwikset system. Rekeying Defiant locks is no more difficult than a Schlage or Kwikset really, assuming you don't rekey by removing the cap on the bible which some maintenance men I know seem to think is the way to rekey locks.
@cledry:
Actually using Schlage depths which are .015" of an inch from one depth to the next would result in a much smaller system than using Kwikset depths of .023" of an inch would give you using standard total position progression master keying...
Schlage requires all keying systems to be produced using two-step progression because of how small the increment from one depth to the next is... So of the 10 depths possible, half of the depths become unusable in each chamber to ensure against unintended key interchange within the system... Doing the math that means:
4 depths to progress in each chamber X 5 pin lock = 4 ^ 5 = 1,024 key changes in a total position progression system...
Kwikset locks use a single-step progression method of designing keying systems so you can use 5 of the 6 standard depths in each chamber (without factoring in depth #7 which is often used in masterkeying Kwikset locks) but lets do the math using only 6 depths:
5 depths to progress in each chamber X 5 pin lock = 5 ^ 5 = 3,125 key changes in a total position progression system...
By using a rotating constant method of generating the keying system you will yield more usable key changes in the system but the math on the size of those systems depends on how many cuts each key shares with the master key in the system...
As far as your comments on which method to use to re-key Kwikset brand cylinders which have the removable spring cover cap on them, Kwikset literature says it is a matter of preference as to which way the cylinders are re-keyed, but in the case of a master keyed lock, it makes no sense at all to remove the c-clip and plug from the lock (when user removable spring cover access is an option) since unless you are using a special follower tool you will end up gutting the cylinder anyways, uncapping it, dumping it all out and inspecting the springs for wear and replacing as needed is the better of the two options and requires using fewer tools to accomplish...
~~ Evan
