Lesh18 wrote:I have a related question, but don't want to make a new thread, so:
Is it actually possible reassemble the euro double cyllinder lock?
( http://www.slingers1858.co.uk/images/P/ ... der-03.jpg )
My logic says that one can reassemble only one cyllinder and the other one will have to be empty, because once one cylliner is installed it's not physically possible to reassemble the second one. How is it?
To repin those you need a jig. When you turn the plug 180, the jig slides into the bottom and holds the drivers in place, allowing you to remove the plug. By removing the jig slowly, you will release the drivers individually and be able to organise them in the correct order. When repinning, it's the same as normal except you're pinning from front to back and using the jig to hold the drivers in place instead of a standard plug follower. When the drivers are in, you simply slide the plug in over the jig, remove the jig, and return the plug to its normal position to lock it up before putting the clip back on.
1967pontiacfirebird wrote:are thier any tricks for getting the right amount of tension because i have a hard time decideing if im using too much or too little tension. i read that using a rubber-band between your finger and the tension wrench will ensure proper tension but does that sound like it will work?
If that worked, we'd all be doing it. Don't pay attention to those tricks and tips that claim to make things "easier", the books these things come from were probably written by people with limited experience. You need to have full control of the wrench because it tells you a lot; by not having direct contact with it you're sacrificing valuable feedback. This is the same reason why those feather touch wrenches suck so much, and also the fancy spring loaded circular things. They do have a place, for example when raking or using a snapper/EPG, but only because those don't require you to concentrate nearly as much. There is still skill involved, but it's more of an intuition that you develop over time. Nowhere near as reliable as SPP in my experience.
Starting low and working your way up is a poor way of judging tension, you're much better off working backwards. It's far less time-consuming. Apply medium-heavy tension, get onto the binding pin, push on it gently with the pick and adjust your tension until it moves relatively easily with that pick pressure. After some practice you'll do this in seconds and it gives you a base tension to work with on that lock. You'll find it helpful to increase/decrease tension as you progress, and it takes a good knowledge of pin states and a decent level of feel to know how and when to adjust your tension correctly... and this takes time to develop. The only thing for it is practice, and lots of it. I explain this technique in a lot more detail along with a whole bunch of other stuff in my book, which I linked further up the page there somewhere.
It takes time, but it's worth it. Some people pick it up very quickly, others struggle for a while, some just don't seem to get it at all. But if you practice enough and have a proper understanding of what you're trying to do, you will get it. You don't wanna be sitting there putting 90% of your concentration on just barely touching the wrench, not being able to feel anything and slightly increasing little by little until you finally feel a slight set somewhere but you don't know where, then feeling around blindly and getting frustrated because you can open the lock sometimes in 10 seconds but other times you spend 20 minutes with the same one getting absolutely nowhere. We've all been there, it's frustrating as hell. Take your time, read, understand, and keep at it. Then when you crack that lock once, you can do it again and again, in the same time, consistently, and you know pretty much exactly what's going on in there while doing so. Can't beat that feeling, trust me on that.
