Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
Forum rules
Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe
The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.
by lukekowald » 12 Apr 2015 1:48
Firstly, 'Hi, all!'  Secondly, I'm sorry if this has been asked/answered somewhere previously. However... I'm currently trying to learn about re-keying (properly) a lock. I have a Schlage pin chart ( https://www.strychix.net/lp101/schlage.jpg). Is this saying that if I want to use, for example, a .165" or a .195" bottom pin, I should (or have to) be using a .235" top pin? Or if I wanted to use a .210", I'd use a .200" top pin? etc... I have some other pin charts from other manufacturers, and some of them seem to only use a single top pin for all cuts (e.g. Weiser - .185", Arrow - .155", Kwikset - .180") etc... I'm not entirely sure why Schlage (and Sargent, for that matter) has three? Thank you. 
-
lukekowald
-
- Posts: 9
- Joined: 11 Apr 2015 2:51
by Big Jesse » 12 Apr 2015 2:24
my locksmith training is limited to only 4 months, but i would like to try to answer your question.
the size of the top pin matters, because if the top pin is short, and the key pin (bottom pin) is short, then a person could theoretically just push BOTH of the pins up into the bible of the lock, above the shear line. so having them relative in size to each other, is better for security from what i remember.
Its the same technique used in 'comb picking' on cheap locks like kwikset and master pad locks. Kwikset and master pad locks typically use the same size top pin, because its cost effective, and faster in production/manufacturing.
when i was a locksmith, we just keyed all the kwikset top pins the same, to save time and money. i believe it was a .160, unless it was master keyed, then we used .180 or no top pin at all due to several master pins. but that was just what my shop did, doesnt mean ALL locksmiths do that. but i bet they do.
to compromise this you just over set all the pins above the shear line, i dont remember what that technique is called in single pin picking, but similar to 'over setting' but your literally pushing both bottom and top pins above the shear line.
when you get into better locks like medeco, the specifications are very strict and precise for the size of the top pins, in relation to the bottom pins, for that very purpose. (thats what i was told)
however, that was what i was taught, there may be other reasons that someone else with more experience might bestow upon us both.

-
Big Jesse
- Supporter

-
- Posts: 149
- Joined: 3 Apr 2015 3:33
-
by Zenophryk » 12 Apr 2015 8:11
So I have rekeyed many many Schlage cylinders and have only ever seen a single size top pin used, even from factory pinned cylinders. The pinning kits I have both only specify a single top pin (.235). I've never seen that pinning chart you posted. But I do agree with Wrench that it makes sense.
-Zenophryk
-
Zenophryk
-
- Posts: 60
- Joined: 1 Mar 2015 20:40
- Location: Haverhill, MA
by lukekowald » 12 Apr 2015 9:02
This pin chart is on the inside lid of a LAB Smart Wedge (.003) pin kit. So I figured it must be accurate... but, it also caused me a little confusion. I was typically used to seeing only one size driver for most locks I've played with.
-
lukekowald
-
- Posts: 9
- Joined: 11 Apr 2015 2:51
by Squelchtone » 12 Apr 2015 9:23
lukekowald wrote:This pin chart is on the inside lid of a LAB Smart Wedge (.003) pin kit. So I figured it must be accurate... but, it also caused me a little confusion. I was typically used to seeing only one size driver for most locks I've played with.
I believe the purpose in addition to what was already mentioned is to have balanced pin stacks so the key slides in with the same feel all the way into the lock and back out of the lock, no one spot feels different because the springs are pushing on the same length of driver + key pins. It also helps with wear on the key and the bottom of the key pins, it will wear more evenly. Squelchtone
-

Squelchtone
- Site Admin
-
- Posts: 11307
- Joined: 11 May 2006 0:41
- Location: right behind you.
by lukekowald » 12 Apr 2015 9:39
Ah, yes. This all makes sense. Thank you for your answers, guys! 
-
lukekowald
-
- Posts: 9
- Joined: 11 Apr 2015 2:51
by Big Jesse » 12 Apr 2015 12:03
Squelchtone wrote: I believe the purpose in addition to what was already mentioned is to have balanced pin stacks so the key slides in with the same feel all the way into the lock and back out of the lock, no one spot feels different because the springs are pushing on the same length of driver + key pins. It also helps with wear on the key and the bottom of the key pins, it will wear more evenly.
Squelchtone
thank you, I never considered that.
-
Big Jesse
- Supporter

-
- Posts: 149
- Joined: 3 Apr 2015 3:33
-
by Raymond » 12 Apr 2015 20:13
Just to add to all the excellent comments already made, wait until you start playing with SFIC (Small Format Removeable Core) locks. With the A2 system all pin lengths must total 23 units. Even Medeco's Keymark non-removeable core cylinders require a fully balanced pin stack of 19 units.
Occasionally even with Kwikset I have used a much shorter pin above a #6 or #7 bottom pin so the key would slide more smothly. On several low cost locks that I was trying to pick, I found the bottom pin and the top pin combined to be so short that only the spring prevented it from turning at the shear.
Nothing is foolproof to a talented fool. Wisdom is not just in determining how to do something, but also includes determining whether it should be done at all.
-
Raymond
-
- Posts: 1357
- Joined: 18 Jan 2004 23:34
- Location: Far West Texas
Return to Got Questions? - Ask Beginner Hobby Lockpicking Questions Here
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests
|