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Dudley safe Key + Combination

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
Forum rules
Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.

Postby digital_blue » 3 Apr 2005 4:46

TOWCH wrote:Not to be a downer but I doubt that graph will be much use to you. All I can see it telling you is the tolerances on Dudley wheel packs and even then that would only reflect on Dudley as a company and would not have any direct connection to your problem. The wheel packs between the two types of locks are different in design and any patterns you did notice are unlikely to be shared.


Sigh. There is no convincing the dudley group of this, but I have to give props for enthusiasm and determination. :)

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Postby rayman452 » 3 Apr 2005 7:08

But its still a flaw. If the lock was perfect, you should never be able to crack it regardless of what method. All locks are flawed, with some obvious bypass methods such as explosives, and some not so obvious, charts. I guess this is why the military doesnt use dudley locks to guard their missle silos.
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Postby TOWCH » 3 Apr 2005 17:20

All locks of this design are vulnerable to graphing, the problem is the padlocks don't share the same design. For this same reason, graphing contact points doesn't work on Sentry fire safes or any other direct fence safe locks. An adaptation of the technique that should work would be to figure out how to measure give in the shackle and then graph that. Someone Suggested marking the shackle with a marker and then locking for unmarked metal but the change in the give in the shackle was not big enough for this to work when I tried it. This may have been because I was also only testing the false notched wheel however. If the false notches are deep enough that the fence is engaging the entire wheel pack then that would explain why I wasn't having much luck. Something that would be more useful for your problem would be to get the diameter of the wheels in the wheel pack, the false notched dial wheel measured at the low points of it's false notches. From there you know what wheels are engaged when you pull on the shackle.
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Postby TOWCH » 3 Apr 2005 17:32

Oops, just looked at the thread on the subject and those measurements have already been taken. If you're going the measure shackle give route then I would rotate the dial three time to the number you want to test, rotate the dial back to one of the false notches like zero and take the reading. Repeat the process changing test numbers in increments of 1 or 2 all around the dial. This trick seems to be exagerating give in the shackle to where taking readings will actually tell you something.
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Postby Orange_Crusader » 3 Apr 2005 20:59

Thanks for the tips, TOWCH. I'll try that when I can tomorrow, it sounds like it'll work better than the current methods, or at least give us new method for it, with some different, more prominent results.

Yes, we Dudleyers are a different breed altogether. If there'a a chance it'll work, or if it sounds good, we'll try it. If there's a will, there a way. :wink:
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