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bump keys - cut to code

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
Forum rules
Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.

Postby skold » 20 Apr 2006 9:26

Hmm, i have never noticed that code machines have an A/10 cut for C4.

Instacode?
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Postby Mutzy » 21 Apr 2006 8:42

yeah, it should come up on the machine's display of the available cuts.
i.e. 0123456789A

Any other aussie lockies comfirm this? I'm going from memory here.
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stop the dent!!!!

Postby bumperboy » 20 Aug 2006 10:18

You know those little plastic covers you get for keys? slip it over your key and then twist it round to go ver you adapted shoulder, this works well and doesn;t need replacing too often, well never as yet but I can see it coming. It's also a good way to color code your bumpers :P
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Postby Raccoon » 20 Aug 2006 13:36

I was considering the idea of a hard washer or disc that has a slot cut to fit all key profiles (just a rectangular cut). Then you cut-ahead (or shoulder) your keys to make up for the width of the disc.

I was originally thinking a hard nylon, but that would be too custom and probably still wear out too quickly, so perhaps a plain old steel washer from the hardware store with a bit of dermal work.
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Postby Shrub » 20 Aug 2006 19:47

You may like to try and see if a fibre washer does what you want,
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Postby Raccoon » 21 Aug 2006 0:07

Where does one obtain a fiber washer?
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Postby Shrub » 4 Sep 2006 19:24

An engineering supplies place, a auto supplies place, a washer shop, ebay, washersRus lots of places,
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Postby mastermarc » 18 Oct 2006 12:21

as far as the washers go you probably right about nylon. I would instead go with something that will get messed up BEFORE the lock face. So steel might not be good because it might be stronger then the lock face. You might end up with a circular imprint on the lock face. The best would be copper, second would be brass. Either way you should find a way to punch them so you can make a bunch easily.
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Postby destroyer125 » 18 Oct 2006 15:54

I have heard of people using duct tape in a thin layer to cushion the key. The MIT guide to bumping has an idea for cushioning keys also but I cant recall exactly what
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Postby digital_blue » 18 Oct 2006 16:44

MIT Guide to bumping?
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Postby Romstar » 19 Oct 2006 1:49

I'm with D_B on this one. The MIT what?

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Postby Rex » 19 Oct 2006 6:33

I am no expert on this but this is what I was thinking of doing to prevent the plug from getting too battered.

As someone else suggested make a flat round disk and cut a profile in the middle the same size as the shoulder of the bump key. Then braze or weld it onto the shoulder of the key. One could also position it so another disk of softer material could be place on it as well to prevent the metal on metal contact.

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Postby franko452000 » 21 Oct 2006 18:26

rapping or ( bumping) has been around for a while, am gonna use a SCHLAGE lock for this example. cutting too the chase, you cut your " bump key " to the deepest cut and pull out a click then rapp the end of the key with a tool of some sort. a better way is after you cut your "bump-key" file about 1/32" off the shoulder and tip of key.NOTE: you'll have the correct bump-key when as you insert the key into the lock, the key pushes out a little.
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bump-stop

Postby dr_dentz » 29 Oct 2006 16:42

hi i have found that using a small piece of hot-glue-gun stick as used by barry from toool works very well on both the MUL-T-LOCK type dimples he shows & regular YALE type locks.
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Postby franko452000 » 2 Nov 2006 3:24

i seen that video with the " glue stick " but i can't remenber what he was doing, anyhow i loved the trick with the " foil-tape ". we have a machine at work that uses a dimple lock, first and only one i have seen. those germans are sure spilling there guts to any and everyone about bypassing all types of locks.!
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