Quick clarification questions.

by **marso** » 24 Jan 2004 12:04

All the doors I have picked have had similar traits regardless if it is a door knob, deadbolt, padlock, window lock. Only thing i can think that is different about deadbolt is the fact that some you have to turn more than 180, which means you have to watch that the top pins down fall in the keyway when you turn that much.

Ice key? I have seen mention of using items to freeze the pins in place and then use a hot wire to bring the bottom pins down. But i dont know if this works and have not tried it myself (its mentioned in H2k).

I am probably just way tired and totally off though.

by **Nose_Picker** » 24 Jan 2004 15:15

So, is there a trick to picking deadbolts to prevent the pins falling?

(Im throughly interested in picking now, lol. Im considering a college course in locksmithing, as opposed to my other passion, computers)

by **marso** » 24 Jan 2004 18:36

Well the ways I do it but it might be different to how you are meant to do it. Basically I just turn and go top pins fell down, and use the pick to push them up. Or if i remember I will either use a plug spinner to get it past that point or get a long straight tension tool and put that in the keyway (preventing the top pins from falling in the keyway).

by **Nose_Picker** » 24 Jan 2004 22:33

I thought of the tension wrench idea. I just wonder where you get the extra hands, lol.

After the deadbolt is turning, do you need the keep the pick in? or would you just use your tension bar to turn while inserting another to keep the drivers above the plug?

(I just finished Reading MIT, so I have a better understanding of the terms, lol)

And im wondering if the last lock mentioned in MIT is what is referred to as a wafer lock? It was called a diskus lock, or something.

Thanks guys.

by **marso** » 24 Jan 2004 22:51

I personally take the pick out as soon as I feel the lock is open. I would then turn it and if it keep going more than 160 degrees I would then take out the tension tool, insert the long straight end of another tension tool (since i like z shaped tension tools) at the other end of the keyway, and use this to turn past the top pins (preventing them to fall down).

The "Disk Tumblers" refered to in the MIT guide is what I would refer to as wafer locks.
http://dp.penix.org/locks/cl.html

I think (and only think) this term was stopped being used as things such as Abloys started to be refered to as disc locks. Can someone who has been picking for more than 2 months confirm this?

by **Nose_Picker** » 25 Jan 2004 0:08

So, I should probably invest in a few more tension bars...

all I have is the one on my kwikpik snake rake... lol.

by **marso** » 25 Jan 2004 0:14

Not really, a paddle pop stick or coat hanger being straight would be fine as long as it goes in the keyway, keeps the top pins from falling down. How about we approach this topic again when you have a lock that you have to turn more than 180 degrees. It seems like you just need to picture it.

by **Nose_Picker** » 25 Jan 2004 1:25

Well, I can picture it fine now.

I can see how the pins would fall into the keyway, and how putting a tension bar in would prevent that from happening. And I misread what you said. I missed the part about putting the tension bar in at say 170 degrees and turning it from there with the same bar.

I was wondering about the tension bars, are the ones with a twist in them easier to work with?

It seems like it would be a bit more comfortable if you were working on a padlock.

http://dp.penix.org/locks/pick.avi

in that vid, it looks comfortable.

The locks I have picked, I hold the lock differently, and I use my pinky finger to add tension.

Ill take a picture next time im picking one, and show you guys. If there is a better tension bar style for my preffered lock orientation, maybe somone could tell me.

Thanks.

by **marso** » 25 Jan 2004 1:41

I use the HPC TR-4 tension wrench. I find it is good since it has the twist it is comfortable to use. Since it is small I can use it when the lock is up against a door way and I have limited space to turn the tension wrench. Also since it has the extra kick on the one side (when in the lock this side make the wrench point straight down/up) means I have even more flexibilty on which locks it will fit in. I find since it is small and thick it of course does not fit in all locks and I believe the feedback is nice. However some people may prefer a more springy (long thin) tension wrench.

Having said that I have a number of wrenches I use regularly. All depends on the lock.

I am right handed so I place a finger or two from my left hand as the presure on the tension wrench.

http://www.hpcworld.com/lockhpc/p_standt.htm

by **Nose_Picker** » 25 Jan 2004 11:03

So, basically, I should have a small assortment of tension bars if im just doing this recreationally?

Im going to order a new pickset soon, just a small one, all I have is the kwikpik...

Ill check out ones with nice tension bars.

Thanks alot

by **Chucklz** » 25 Jan 2004 22:12

THe more tension tools you own, the better off you will be. Dont limit yourself to what is comercially available either. A tension tool is very easy to fabricate out of every day materials. I personally own just as many if not more tension tools than picks. Ive even been known to shape a tool just for one specific keyway.

by **marso** » 25 Jan 2004 22:18

I do not think the tension tool is given enough credit. I think this is just, if not more important, than the pick itself.

by **Chucklz** » 25 Jan 2004 22:25

Its all Hollywoods fault (the place in California, not the gentleman here from FLA). Movies always show just "picks" and the picks are the parts that are in interesting shapes, so people just assume they are the most important tool. There was a while back some discussion about at what point you go from "beginner" to "Good" or whatever. Realizing ..... not being told.... but actually realizing and understanding that the turning tool is THE tool... that is a mighty progression in my book

by **Nose_Picker** » 26 Jan 2004 13:29

The pick just manipulates the pins, the tnesion tool makes them set.

I know this, and I know that if you dont have tension, chances are the lock wont open.

Most of this is common sense now. I dont know why I didnt think of that right off the bad, it probably was hollywoods influence though.

Im going to either buy or make more tension tools.

Ill probably make some, because I can customize them that way.

Im currently working on a new master lock, its about the width of a coke bottle opening, and the keyway is fairly small. im having trouble getting my tension tool in with my pick.

I opened it once last night, but I was drunk... lol. I dont know exactly how I did it.

I tried to single pin pick, but all I have is a rake, and its very hard to find the order that the pins bind at with the limited space.

If I get it again, ill let you guys know.

Im going to try and make a paperclip tension tool today, ill let you know how it works out.

by **Chucklz** » 26 Jan 2004 13:43

Is it a small brass body lock? If so just wiggling somethign near the back will open it.

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