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Foley Belsaw Key Machine

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
Forum rules
Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.

Re: Foley Belsaw Key Machine

Postby zeke79 » 9 Nov 2008 11:06

When looking into a code machine, as mentioned above take the cost of cutting wheels into account as there are a large number of them at $100+ each. I have had a framon 2D and got rid of it simply because I thought I was spending too much time behind the machine for a large number of keys. It is definately not the fastest machine out there at all. I have an HPC Blitz still and the machine just keeps on ticking without a problem other than having to own cutters for all of the different keys you cut. Then I finally bought an ITL950C. If you buy with the right cutter it will emulate all flats with that one cutter. You never have to keep any others on hand, never have to remember that a certain cutter is .003" off from the main cutter you use etc. To me if you are spending close to $2000 on a Framon or an HPC Blitz just spend the extra and go for the ITL. Overall a much faster machine .

I am by no means bashing the framon #2 as it is very versitile and probably the toughest code machine you will ever find. The only advantage of the #2D over the number two is you never have to swap out spacing blocks or have to keep track of them. If I had it to do again and had to start with a framon I'd go with the #2 and not the #2D after the trouble I had with the depth digital readout. Replacement didnt really fix the problem but after alot of thought and tinkering an adjustment to the machine took care of the problem. I never once had a problem with the spacing digital readout. Once this kink was worked out the depth DRO worked flawlessly.
For the best book out there on high security locks and their operation, take a look at amazon.com for High-Security Mechanical Locks An Encyclopedic Reference. Written by our very own site member Greyman! A true 5 Star read!!
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Re: Foley Belsaw Key Machine

Postby jimb » 9 Nov 2008 11:13

Eyes_Only wrote:How can you accurately gauge tip stop automotive keys on the FB? I mainly cut car keys at home for practice for the stuff I run into at work and a lot of car keys are tip stop.



I quit using the gauge on my fb shortly after I got it. If a key does not have a shoulder I line up the tip of the key against the flat edge of the tracer guide and the tip of the blank against the edge of the cutter. If it has a shoulder I line up the shoulders the same way. It's kind of a pain when you have multiple keys but by doing it this way the only calibration I have to worry about is the depth.
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Re: Foley Belsaw Key Machine

Postby Eyes_Only » 9 Nov 2008 12:44

I do that too actually, except that in my case I use the code cutting tracer and cutting wheel so it's a bit more tricky cos I use the machine to practice getting better with the Determinator tools.

And yeah, it is a pain. Especially when using depth/spacing keys cos I have to re-align the keys everytime I switch from even spaces with odds.
If a lock is a puzzle, then its key is the complete picture
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Re: Foley Belsaw Key Machine

Postby cool-arrow » 9 Nov 2008 23:22

I have a Framon 2 and I can cut just about anything accurately with no problems including Medeco and Emhart. I picked it over the Blitz because no cards needed, and it comes with everything you need to start working. I also like Genericode which comes with the machine.

I was told in school that the 2D was known to have some problems, and of course you can see the positives and negatives with the Blitz with the code cards. I think they recommended it because it is a good all around starter machine that will do a lot right out of the box for the money. I rarely have to swap the cutting wheel, and if I need a wider cut I just widen it a little with a 1/2 turn or less on the dial.

I think my next purchase will be an ITL, but they were a lot more retail when I was in the market for a code cutter. I think it was about $3K or more last time I was pricing them. Not a bad investment if you are cutting a lot of different keys in a short period of time. Instead of buying a FB machine I think a HPC speedex with space and depth keys would be better to hold you over. Then when you buy a code cutter you have a decent mobile compact duplicator.
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Re: Foley Belsaw Key Machine

Postby Eyes_Only » 9 Nov 2008 23:39

cool-arrow wrote:Instead of buying a FB machine I think a HPC speedex with space and depth keys would be better to hold you over. Then when you buy a code cutter you have a decent mobile compact duplicator.


Thats what I was planning on doing but wasn't sure if the machine can be accurate enough for code cutting with D/S keys. Cos with my FB machine I have to re-adjust the tracer quite a bit with the micrometer dial when, for example, I switch from cutting a Nissan X237 key to a Ford H75. I just don't want to dump a few hundred dollars into a new piece of equipment and end up with the same problem.
If a lock is a puzzle, then its key is the complete picture
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Re: Foley Belsaw Key Machine

Postby WOT » 10 Nov 2008 4:13

cool-arrow wrote:I have a Framon 2 and I can cut just about anything accurately with no problems including Medeco and Emhart. I picked it over the Blitz because no cards needed, and it comes with everything you need to start working. I also like Genericode which comes with the machine.


Well, you don't need cards with the Blitz either. It's just nice to have them. There's an inch card for the HPC1200 too, which is a card that's graduated in actual spacing/depth rather than numerical depth/space values.

And something of non-technical importance is that HPC-1200 is apparently the defacto in the trade, therefore parts are readily available. You CAN get Framon parts, but you'll almost certainly have to order it since you likely won't find parts locally.

I rarely have to swap the cutting wheel, and if I need a wider cut I just widen it a little with a 1/2 turn or less on the dial.

There's no difference in this between the HPC or the Framon though.
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Re: Foley Belsaw Key Machine

Postby cool-arrow » 10 Nov 2008 15:47

WOT wrote:
cool-arrow wrote:I have a Framon 2 and I can cut just about anything accurately with no problems including Medeco and Emhart. I picked it over the Blitz because no cards needed, and it comes with everything you need to start working. I also like Genericode which comes with the machine.


Well, you don't need cards with the Blitz either. It's just nice to have them. There's an inch card for the HPC1200 too, which is a card that's graduated in actual spacing/depth rather than numerical depth/space values.

And something of non-technical importance is that HPC-1200 is apparently the defacto in the trade, therefore parts are readily available. You CAN get Framon parts, but you'll almost certainly have to order it since you likely won't find parts locally.

I rarely have to swap the cutting wheel, and if I need a wider cut I just widen it a little with a 1/2 turn or less on the dial.

There's no difference in this between the HPC or the Framon though.


I am not sure what your point is. I wasn't comparing the two of which one is better. I was pointing out things I liked about my machine. If you actually own a machine why don't you just write the pros you like about yours. It would make you not sound so much like a wannabe know it all:)
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