n00b : 3 days and no click

[Buggs41]

I agree with that. Practice, Practice, Practice.

Went through F-B course. I could pick all their locks Impressioning time came, and I had a tough time. Ended up binding a lock while trying to learn more. I returned the ( now junk ) lock, with a letter stating what I did, and a request for a new lock.

In return, I recieved a passing grade. ( After all, I did pick it ) But nothing more was ever said about learning impressioning a key.

My instructor must have absolute faith in my ability to be a great locksmith!

[opal]

Hi guys!

Well i've followed the advice you guys put up here and I now seem to be able to consistantly pick that Yale lock (even despite the anti-pick pins).

So, I took myself off to B&Q. Couldn't find bird or any unbranded barrels, but I did find an ERA barrel for £8. The key was really flat looking, so it looked easy to pick and it didn't matter if I (destructively) took it to peices.

I couldn't pick it... so i took it to bits. The pins pinged all around the room. After wrestling the cat to get them back, I discovered that there were 10 pins and 5 springs in this thing. 5 of the pins sit directly on the springs and are identical in size & shape. The other 5 pins were bullet shaped at one end, and although very similar in size they do differ in length. Lining up the "bullets" on the key showed me how to re-key the lock so that the key would work again properly, although at this point that was not my primary concern.

So I put a pin in the first pin position (random size). The torque wrench could almost break through and turn the barrel. This made me realise that I was probably ruining the spring and applying "FAR" too much tension. As i read somewhere on this site, you practically only have to breath at it for the tension to be enough and in some cases the weight of the tension wrench is enough (to start with). I also realised that I was way oversetting the pins and would never have been sucessful with my approach.

"Click", The ERA lock opened with one pin. lol it's a start! Although I was excited my sense of achievement was somewhat dampened by the fact that I knew I was never going to encounter 1 pin locks anywhere else (or that the likelyhood was extremely slim). I practiced with 1 pin for about 5 minutes before adding a 2nd pin. "Click", I could do 2 pins. If I could do 2 why not 5?

Boldly, I picked up the trusty Yale barrel that so far had not yeilded to me once. I concentrated on setting the pins one by one, with that as my primary goal moreso than opening the lock itself. one by one they found their place "click", "click", etc. Then to my suprize the torque wrench was turning and the lock was open!!!

OMG! I opened the Yale! It was 1am so I couldn't start screaming, but the sense of achievement was overwhelming! I was scared to reset the lock in case it was a horrible fluke and I couldn't do it again, or in case I was really asleep and it hadn't happened lol. I was over excited and couldn't pick it again, over torque and over setting. I took a short break, calmed right down lol, & tried again. "Click" lock open

This resource is absolutely amazing. I realise that with only 3 locks under my belt I am just at the beginning of my lockpicking journey. However, there is no way I could have got even this far without the help of you guys. Collectively, we owe thanks to the organisizers of the site. I don't usually gush over bbs, but I really felt like saying thanks for once.

[maldotcom2]

HEY, CONGRATS

[jason]

Well done - especially with the "Yale". You have just discovered how to re-key a cylinder into the bargain.

The ERA cylinders are fairly well built and make a nice progression from the "BIRD" cylinders. BTW you can get "BIRD" from independent builders merchants for about £2.00 a pop, that's why you find them on rented properties as the landlords don't like spending money replacing locks when tenants leave.

Try using a lock where the key has very low and very high cuts next to one another - this will show you how careless use of a hook or diamond can (but not always) leave you knackered on site if you're not careful (you set one pin and inadvertantly bang it up past the shear line working on another pin nearby).

Lockpicking is a bit like walking learning to walk - the first few steps are the hardest, but it's really funny when the arrogant gits try running and then really fall over (believe me I've done it).

Locksmithing is one of those skills that teaches patience and humility especially on site when you screw up (I've done that as well "trust me mate you'll be in no time" - 15 minutes later "Hmm never had this happen", minutes after that "F**king cheap b**tard, f**king knock off unbranded locks" before you find out that the pleasant locksmith who fitted the original lock polished off the makers name and fitted it with loads of spools and serrateds.

Here's some useful tips which have helped me - spend plenty of time looking at the lock BEFORE you take your picks out, look to see if the lock has an unusual keyway/section which could indicate that it may not be "stock", use a mirror on a stick (if there is a letterbox) to see if the rim lock has auto deadlocking, whether there is a chain fitted to the inside of the door, whether it has been barricaded, or worst of all there is an irate occupier (or his dog!) just inside who wants to take a pop at the first person he/she/it sees

[cred]

jason do you do sub contract work,i am thinking of doing it if so what do you think of it
cheers
ray

[jason]

I've never done formal sub-contract work for locksmithing, I'd rather keep the money myself - I do the locksmithing to pay for beer and takeaway kebabs/curry. (Hey Varjeal - how comes there's no smiley for drunk?)

I have a "proper" job which I do in the normal hours and do the lockout smithing when people lock themselves out (which fortunately is when they get home from work and realise their keys are in their desk, locker, overalls etc. or when they've come home from the pub and left them in their house).

I do some sub-contracting work (non-locksmithing) which is OK as its steady (albeit not as well paid) the advantage is that the main contractor bears the cost of advertising, chasing payments from the client and they now cover the professional liability insurance) all I have to do is the work and generate an invoice to them.

If you are going to do sub-contract work of any sort check to find out what you have to provide - the professional liability insurance for my other work is about £1500 per annum for £250K of cover, and I was advised to increase it to £500K to be on the safe side because of legal costs going crazy. (Whilst I'm still slightly sane - is there a smiley for "Stitched up by insurance company?)

[opal]

When you say "Binding", can someone explain it in detail. I think it probably means the pin that it hardest to move, but i'm a little unsure. I tried to pick the Yale again today and only managed to do it the once... So im in need of practice, practice, practice.

Im also finding it difficult to feel when a pin clicks into place. Sometimes the tension wrench moves and sometimes it doesn't. Maybe I still have a tension problem (somebody call me a shrink lol). I think I've probably found the location the pins should be in and i'm picking it more from memory than feel.

Oh well, i'll keep trying lol

[Guitar_J]

I want you to do something... take your era cylinder apart and put one pin stack in it... (key pin, top pin, spring)

Now... insert your wrench in it and turn... for this exercise it is ok to put extra pressure on it... you're seeing what a binding pin feels like... just don't over do it and bend your wrench... it shouldn't take too much torque to bind the pin... now put your pick in and feel the pin... if it is binding... (and it should be) it will be difficult to move... That is what it means to say a pin is binding


now, add another pin... pick it.. this time... pay attention to how it feels when you set the first pin.. you should feel a very slight (and I do mean slight... if it rotates a very noticable distance, it is a good sign of security pins) rotation of the plug... set the other pin and it should rotate... do this many times... anywhere from 60 to 100 times..

you can feel from this what it feels like when you set a pin as the 2nd pin is keeping the plug from turning, but you are setting the first one a repition of this exercise will help you gain a feel for what it feels like when you set a pin.. notice when you set the pin, the bottom pin no longer has tension on it from the spring above...