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Control Sleeve on Best Padlock

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
Forum rules
Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.

Postby Hollywood » 21 Dec 2004 11:34

http://tinypic.com/ydzs6
http://tinypic.com/ydzxs

Sorry about the previous post

I didn't want you getting a kink in your neck while reading it. lol
"That Noob is depriving a village somewhere of an idiot"
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Postby CaptHook » 21 Dec 2004 19:23

The best way to make the sfic wrenches Ive found, is to have a disassembled icore to work with. As you are cutting the "teeth" of the wrench, check them against the assembled plug and control sleeve. At no time in moving the wrench around in the plug, should the teeth extend past the sleeve. And as Rom said, a slight twist seems to work well.
Chuck
Did you hear something click?

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Postby D_Shane » 21 Dec 2004 21:13

Here's some dimensions for the wrench


http://members.cox.net/d_shane/wre.JPG
I am insane, and you are my insanity
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Postby randmguy » 22 Dec 2004 6:37

I'll throw in my 2 cents worth....I've had the best luck with these turning tools...

http://www.lockpicking101.com/viewtopic.php?t=1673&highlight=copyright+police

They're circa 1950-something but I like them better than the Peterson tools that I've tried recently. Part of the success I've enjoyed with these tools is due to (as Romstar pointed out) the angle of the handle. I've compared the depth of the teeth on the Peterson tools to these and I think the Peterson tools slide too far into the holes and just engage the cylinder body. I also need thinner shafts than the Peterson tools have for some of the tighter Best keyways.

Just keep playing with the depths on your teeth. It looks like you have the spacing down pat...So you've already gotten the hardest part whipped (Bravo for using a file instead of a Dremel tool, BTW). Start with the shallowest cuts you can make (you can always cut them deeper later, if you wish). When you get one that works, use it as a template to make several more. I really hate it when my last tool gets busted and I have to start over from scratch.

Don't forget to check the holes in your cylinder. Some locksmiths get in the habit of widening them into ovals or slotting them so they can't be picked to the control line.

Good Luck.
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Postby locksmistress » 22 Dec 2004 11:34

Towch wrote:

On the bright side I just found out I can pick Best cores. Something I wasn't even sure I would be able to do with an SFIC tool.

One of the first locks I picked was on my dorm room in college - Best SFIC. I could do it pretty regularly too. At the time it wasn't a hobby so much as I forgot my keys pretty often and the guys across the hall were usually home and had picks.

You may be very skilled, or like me, you may be very lucky. Haven't had a whole lot of regular success since then.

My point is that every core is quite unique and in the process of developing your SFIC tension tools you should try to acquire a variety of cores to test them on. Your current lock may be an anomoly with extreme control cuts or a really worn operating shear that could skew your results.
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Postby FSSARD » 23 Feb 2005 17:14

Exodus5000 wrote:I don't understand something about Best cores. Some claim the lock can be opened with any permutation of control and operating shear lines. Some claim only the operating shear line will open the lock, while the Control shear line will only remove the core. Can someone shed some light on this?

Another quick question, I have some Best cores with the master key and Control key for them. The Master key will spin the plugs freely, but the Control key doesn't seem to do anything. Is this because the core isn't housed in a Shell, or do I have a bad Control Key?

PS - I share your woe, my homemade I-core wrench doesn't help me at all for picking the control shear line, I just keep opening the d*** thing.


lol, that's what i want to do, yet i can't make the tools.
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Postby vector40 » 23 Feb 2005 20:19

Do all SFICs have the same configuration of the holes? Same spacing and such?
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Postby datagram » 28 Apr 2006 3:03

Exodus5000 wrote:I don't understand something about Best cores. Some claim the lock can be opened with any permutation of control and operating shear lines. Some claim only the operating shear line will open the lock, while the Control shear line will only remove the core. Can someone shed some light on this?

Another quick question, I have some Best cores with the master key and Control key for them. The Master key will spin the plugs freely, but the Control key doesn't seem to do anything. Is this because the core isn't housed in a Shell, or do I have a bad Control Key?

PS - I share your woe, my homemade I-core wrench doesn't help me at all for picking the control shear line, I just keep opening the <censored> thing.


The control key DOES NOT open the lock, it merely moves the outer cylinder out of the way so that the lock can slide out of whatever it is held in (say, a padlock). It can't turn the key, like the operating key, because there is a wall it hits once it is turned enough (15-20 degrees or so, I'd imagine) to move the piece holding it in the padlock, so that you can remove the lock.
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Postby Omikron » 28 Apr 2006 4:03

datagram wrote:
Exodus5000 wrote:I don't understand something about Best cores. Some claim the lock can be opened with any permutation of control and operating shear lines. Some claim only the operating shear line will open the lock, while the Control shear line will only remove the core. Can someone shed some light on this?

Another quick question, I have some Best cores with the master key and Control key for them. The Master key will spin the plugs freely, but the Control key doesn't seem to do anything. Is this because the core isn't housed in a Shell, or do I have a bad Control Key?

PS - I share your woe, my homemade I-core wrench doesn't help me at all for picking the control shear line, I just keep opening the <censored> thing.


The control key DOES NOT open the lock, it merely moves the outer cylinder out of the way so that the lock can slide out of whatever it is held in (say, a padlock). It can't turn the key, like the operating key, because there is a wall it hits once it is turned enough (15-20 degrees or so, I'd imagine) to move the piece holding it in the padlock, so that you can remove the lock.


Both of you are correct in some regard. The any combination of operating and control CUTS may be used to pick the lock as long as the cuts are lining up at the OPERATING shear line. Other than picking though, the only thing a control key will allow you to do is remove the cylinder, at which point you could use any number of tools to grab the tailpiece and rotate to unlock the mechanism.
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