Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
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by manueltrabajo » 12 Mar 2017 9:58
2 possibilities that I can think of. 1. The actuator is binding on something behind the lock 2. It may have the same feature as a Schlage, where there is a set of dimples in the core to the left of the pins.
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by rcc147 » 12 Mar 2017 10:20
I'm in new York city. The lock doesn't turn the other way at all. Clockwise is the direction to open it. I'm completely stuck on this one 
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by jimu57 » 12 Mar 2017 10:23
What kind of lock mechanism is it? IN the door or surface mount on the side opposite the cylinder? Got any pics of it ?
Jim
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by rcc147 » 12 Mar 2017 10:34
The deadbolt is mounted on the surface of the door. I changed it when I replaced the lock. I'll try and post a pic later
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by GWiens2001 » 12 Mar 2017 10:44
You are saying 90 degrees. That means that if the pins are normally at 12 oclock, then you are saying the keyway has the pins pointing at 3 oclock. Is that right? Or do you mean 180 degrees, so the keyway is upside down when it gets stuck?
Gordon
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by mseifert » 12 Mar 2017 10:47
GWiens2001 wrote:You are saying 90 degrees. That means that if the pins are normally at 12 oclock, then you are saying the keyway has the pins pointing at 3 oclock. Is that right? Or do you mean 180 degrees, so the keyway is upside down when it gets stuck?
Gordon
Based on the picture I would say not quite 90 degrees..
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by rcc147 » 12 Mar 2017 10:54
GWiens2001 wrote:You are saying 90 degrees. That means that if the pins are normally at 12 oclock, then you are saying the keyway has the pins pointing at 3 oclock. Is that right? Or do you mean 180 degrees, so the keyway is upside down when it gets stuck?
Gordon
3 o'clock, or very close to it.
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by jimu57 » 12 Mar 2017 11:05
Wondering if it's a jimmy proof with vertical bolt. Takes more torque than you can get with a tension wrench to open it. Even with a key it takes a little more torque than cylinders in knobs especially if the bolt binds.
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by mseifert » 12 Mar 2017 11:09
jimu57 wrote:Wondering if it's a jimmy proof with vertical bolt. Takes more torque than you can get with a tension wrench to open it. Even with a key it takes a little more torque than cylinders in knobs especially if the bolt binds.
Picture of the other side of the door would answer this question
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by Squelchtone » 12 Mar 2017 12:49
mseifert wrote:jimu57 wrote:Wondering if it's a jimmy proof with vertical bolt. Takes more torque than you can get with a tension wrench to open it. Even with a key it takes a little more torque than cylinders in knobs especially if the bolt binds.
Picture of the other side of the door would answer this question
Its gonna be a Segal jimmy proof deadlock but Im still trying to imagine why the 3 oclock thing.. does the key have the torque required to hop over whatever the plug/tailpiece are hitting at 3? Is the door needing to be pulled shut tighter so the bolt isnt dragging on the strike plate mounted on the frame? Op: what if you open your apartment door and pick the lock with door in open position, will the tension wrench let you turn it all the way then? Also can we have a photo of where you are putting the wrench in the keyway? I suspect you may have it in the bottom and the plug and lock body may be grinding against the tension wrench.
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by jimu57 » 12 Mar 2017 13:43
I think the torque needed to turn it is due to the lock mechanism, not the cylinder. If he removed the cylinder and picked it, I think it would turn fine. The bar linkage in the lock mechanism may be starting engaging at the 45 degree turn of the cylinder. At 90 degree, I think the linkage is putting full force on the bolt in order to move it. At this point, it takes more rotational torque to convert the energy into the needed linear movement.
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by mseifert » 12 Mar 2017 13:47
jimu57 wrote:I think the torque needed to turn it is due to the lock mechanism, not the cylinder. If he removed the cylinder and picked it, I think it would turn fine. The bar linkage in the lock mechanism may be starting engaging at the 45 degree turn of the cylinder. At 90 degree, I think the linkage is putting full force on the bolt in order to move it. At this point, it takes more rotational torque to convert the energy into the needed linear movement.
He said he tried a screwdriver and had no luck .. I would say jammed springs but it is happening on 2 different locks .. I am leaning toward obscure safety feature ..
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by jimu57 » 12 Mar 2017 14:20
I think its poor quality mechanism.
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by Shackle Jackal » 12 Mar 2017 16:01
I had an issue with a double keyed deadbolt that was installed on an interior door, I picked the thing fairly quickly in what i thought was the wrong direction, CW, it rotated about 90 degrees, maybe a little past and had gotten a really weird sticky feeling, It did not want to return to a normal locked position, I gave it some lube, checked to make sure the driver pins had not fallen into the lock. With a little lube to lock finally rotated (ccw) but gave a weird resistance again, the lock goes back into the normal position. having assumed I had picked it in the wrong direction i worked on it for another ten minutes before I realized that it had opened it in the correct direction, the resistance was the bolt retracting. Since it was an exterior lock and had been installed incorrectly on an interior door the bolt was dragging and catching in all directions. My first Clue something was not right should have been the extremely blown out keyway.
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by rcc147 » 12 Mar 2017 17:38
I'm extremely grateful for all the responses. This is such a helpful site!
I will post an update if I make any progress.
Thank you.
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