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Whats on 'your' door?

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
Forum rules
Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.

Postby DOORDOCTOR » 29 Jul 2006 15:29

front door: wesco mortise lock (internal thumb latch lock and deadbolt)

back door: fortress key-in-knob lock, guardsman deadbolt with about inch and half throw
door closer expert

if its not broke dont fix it!
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Postby mh » 29 Jul 2006 15:51

p1ckf1sh wrote:mh, can you tell me what you mean with "multi-point lock" ? Is that some kind of setup that has multiple cylinder slong the height of the door?
...
I wonder if such an electronic keypad lock could be beefed up with an Hometec from the inside to enable unlocking even in case the electronics of the keypad lock fail. Gonna check out the design on these...

Also, I need to check out if the Hometecs can be made manipulation-safe from the inside, elsewhise an easy attack way would be a drill hole and opening by some kind letterbox tool...


My multipoint lock is just one of these standard setup you find on nearly all new doors around here: One cylinder that operates multiple locking points along the side of the door.

On the ABUS Hometec: I'm not sure if it's a good backup. I would be afraid that this fails before the other locks does.
Note that ELV http://www.elv.de/ has sold these long before ABUS started the Hometec line. ELV made a new version recently (I think it's calles KeyMatic plus or something like that) - the reason was that the 1st version didn't produce enough torque in some cases. You might want to check if ABUS is using this upgrade already. Esp. for your Panzerriegel :)

Also - yes, the wheel on the inside operates the key that's hidden in the unit. If there's a hole in your door, KeyMatic or Hometec is not for you.

For the transmitters they use the KeeLoq rolling code system. I am still not convinced that this hasn't been compromised by some car mafia support lab. But that's just my personal fear. There is another thread somewhere on this.

Cheers,
mh
"The techs discovered that German locks were particularly difficult" - Robert Wallace, H. Keith Melton w. Henry R. Schlesinger, Spycraft: The secret history of the CIA's spytechs from communism to Al-Qaeda (New York: Dutton, 2008), p. 210
Image
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Postby p1ckf1sh » 29 Jul 2006 18:17

mh wrote:On the ABUS Hometec: I'm not sure if it's a good backup. I would be afraid that this fails before the other locks does.

I am not sure I understand what you mean? By "fails before the other locks" do you mean that you think it could be compromised easier than the regular mechanical lock?

Note that ELV http://www.elv.de/ has sold these long before ABUS started the Hometec line. ELV made a new version recently (I think it's calles KeyMatic plus or something like that) - the reason was that the 1st version didn't produce enough torque in some cases. You might want to check if ABUS is using this upgrade already. Esp. for your Panzerriegel :)
Oh, interesting. The devices look really very much alike. Is ELV the patent holder and Abus is just selling a licensed and rebranded version of that thing or how is that explained? I will mail Abus and ask them about the torque and how it compares to the regular Keymatic and Keymatic IQ+. Also, I will ask them if they think a Panzerriegel can be operated by a Hometec. These things are their products, they should know...

Also - yes, the wheel on the inside operates the key that's hidden in the unit. If there's a hole in your door, KeyMatic or Hometec is not for you.

There is no hole in my door (well NOW there is one, but the new door is ordered)... But a hole can be drilled pretty quickly :). I'd probably modify the devices and remove the wheel. Or replace it with something that yields no grip to LBT stuff...
Due to financial limitations the light at the end of tunnel has been turned off until further notice.
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Postby Jlo » 13 Aug 2006 18:26

Hi,

On my front door I have a BS3621 2004 yale XBS1 rim lock and Era 5 lever mortice (Not sure which one as bought from B&Q but its BS3621 1998)

Backdoor- 5lever era BS3621 sash lock with top and bottom rack bolts.

Patio door- Standard 5 pin euro but additional internal top and bottom era patio door bolts fitted.

Oh yes plus an alarm.

Cheers

Jlo
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Postby LockNewbie21 » 14 Aug 2006 14:25

I have kwickset's

I dont have anyhting worht stealing, just some empty ciggerette packs.. i might build a house form them.. i have enough
[deadlink]http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h17/Locknewbie21/LockNewbie21Sig.jpg[/img]
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Postby Cherokee » 14 Aug 2006 16:35

I have 6 pin resticted keyway Gege's on all doors (front, back, garage, conservatory & patio).

All keyed alike, So i don't wear my pockets out with a huge bunch of keys.

Only trouble is front & back doors are uPVC (plastic). :D


Regards to all,
Brian 8)
Cherokee
 
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Postby linty » 14 Aug 2006 19:17

i got a schlage deadbolt and schlage kik on my front door, but on my desk at work i installed an abloy protec self-latching :)
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Postby Legion303 » 21 Aug 2006 2:06

Kwikset, front and back. As Jim DiGriz would say, it takes less time to pick the locks than it would to pick your teeth.

No point in spending money on good locks when I don't have enough to also secure the windows and door frames.

-steve
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Postby Schuyler » 21 Aug 2006 11:06

Legion303 wrote:Kwikset, front and back. As Jim DiGriz would say, it takes less time to pick the locks than it would to pick your teeth.

No point in spending money on good locks when I don't have enough to also secure the windows and door frames.

-steve


Much love for the Jim DiGriz reference.
Schuyler
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Postby pie muncher » 21 Aug 2006 20:19

yale 5 pin cylinder lock, a baseball bat in my bedroom and archie,....

Archie is my 12st bull mastiff rottweiler cross.
you can't make an omelette without breaking the eggs......
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Postby Seanernet » 21 Aug 2006 22:32

3 Doors = Double sided Mul-T-Lock Deadbolts
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Postby Ray_Air » 21 Aug 2006 23:39

Schlage keyed entry deadlatch's and Schlage Ultima deadbolts, both doors, keyed alike. Mag reinforcement plates on deadbolts with security strikes. And on my shed I have a Master lock boron alloy staple hasp with a 6-pin BEST padlock with a 3/8th's inch anti-cut shackle. I made a collar out of metal pipe to fit over the hasp staple and then you just lock the padlock thru the pipe to the staple. The collar guards against cutting the 5/16th inch hasp staple with bolt cutters which can be done. I also reinforced the doors and added 2 steel 8mm pins per door that go into the frame when the doors are shut. Also have barrel bolts locking one of the shed doors top and bottom.
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Postby th516 » 22 Aug 2006 13:35

I have standard 5 pin Schlage on the house and garage doors. I have additional Dexter (Schlage) deadbolts on the house doors.

The more time I spend on this site the more insecure I feel. I have lots of windows so just putting better locks on the doors won't stop anyone that really wants in (as though anything will stop someone that really wants in - lol)

--

MD in MI
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Postby mjwhit » 1 Feb 2007 5:26

pic of my front door from the inside.
Couldnt be bothered to unlock so i could go outside to take a pic.

Image
Image
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Postby Jason13 » 1 Feb 2007 8:57

Front and back door are GEGE euro cylinders every pin has 2 cuts in the driver pin *2 false sets for each pin* and its a 5 pin.

My back garden i live rite next door to a police station so i have a light shining on my garden at night time and 2 operating camras *controled by the police*

The camras prolly hit my back door from what view they are getting.
Image
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