Some random guys review of the Lock Pro Clam Kit

by **MudSlinger** » 23 Jan 2006 18:45

Remeber every spy/thief movie you ever saw, where the spy/thief takes some ones key for 2 seconds presses it in clay and then makes a copy of that key. Well 2 days ago a co-worker who writes for The Independent Locksmith Was given a free Deluxe clam kit from Lockpro.

This things works like it was stripped right out of movie. Its a little clamshell just a little thicker than the RAZR flip phone on each side it had completly run-o-the-mill modeling clay. you just close it around the to of blade of a key(applying babypowder so clay doesnt stick to eachother, nor does the key stick to the clay) You then remove the key, mold a small funnel shape above the keyhole, you melt the provided lead for 3 MINUTES!! pour it in and let it cool for 2 minutes. Unbelievably, a perfect copy of her chrystler key was created and she was even able to start her van with it.

Yah, que the bond music.

by **vector40** » 23 Jan 2006 19:41

There's a review of same in the advanced section. Pretty cool concept.

by **SpaceCow** » 23 Jan 2006 22:28

Hey MudSlinger what part of Dallas do you live in?

by **Gear Head** » 24 Jan 2006 20:39

The OSS in WWII had a similar device with a thimble to use as a crucible to melt the lead, and a candle to heat it. It had a small block of clay for the same purpose. Good stuff.

by **Gear Head** » 24 Jan 2006 21:28

That thing sounds cool, but I cannot find a picture of it, or anything about it anywhere.

by **Octillion** » 25 Jan 2006 2:08

There is this: http://www.multipick-service.com/en/tools/3800_en.htm

Whatever that casting alloy is should also work for clay, its melting point is below water's boiling point. And I would imagine you could always reuse the alloy once you no longer need a copy of a key.

by **Snikrepmada** » 25 Jan 2006 22:27

Hello all this is my first post so please excuse me if I make a mistake on the photos. With that said let me start with my post. I make a lot of key casts in my job, because some customers need keys that I don't have on hand, my solution the key cast. Out in the field I make a cast of the key, go back to the shop and I can order the key (if I don't have one) and cut it. I know the key will work for the customer every time. This first picture is of the case I keep my supplies in, http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f99/Snikrepmada/Key%20Casting%20Supplies/KeyCastingSupplies001.jpg
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f99/Snikrepmada/Key%20Casting%20Supplies/KeyCastingSupplies008.jpg
, it is a pelican case; I chose it for its quality (best cases for protecting valuable material.

First, part of the kit is the clams, http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f99/Snikrepmada/Key%20Casting%20Supplies/KeyCastingSupplies003.jpg; I got these clams from Lockmasters in KY. In my opinion they are the best way to mold a key. Next is the clay I use, http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f99/Snikrepmada/Key%20Casting%20Supplies/KeyCastingSupplies007.jpg, which is a polymer clay Sculpey brand. I tried several types of clay and found this one to perform the best, it does not dry out, and if I have to make more than one key I can bake it in the oven with no shrinkage. Next step is the putting the clay in the clam, real simple just push it in and smooth each side flush, I use these tools, http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f99/Snikrepmada/Key%20Casting%20Supplies/KeyCastingSupplies004.jpg, I got them all from the art supply store in the modeling section. Then very important is to dust each side of the clay with baby powder. At first I would pour it on and blow it off, but that would sometimes cause problems. Then I bought this finger print brush called the Zepher, http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f99/Snikrepmada/Key%20Casting%20Supplies/KeyCastingSupplies005.jpg, and I lightly dust the powder on. I am ready to mold a key, once I have to mold it is time to make the key. I close the mold and rap a rubber band around it then take a scrap piece of clay and make a funnel to pour the metal into the mold. The metal I use is a 158Â°F bismuth alloy, http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f99/Snikrepmada/Key%20Casting%20Supplies/KeyCastingSupplies006.jpg, I get this alloy from a web supplier http://www.smallparts.com/products/descriptions/lma.cfm. I use a spoon I got like 6 for a dollar at Wal-mart and I heat it with a Bic lighter. The trick here is to heat the edge of the spoon before pouring it in the mold. Break the mold and you have an exact copy of the original key. I hope any readers find this post informative.

by **Octillion** » 26 Jan 2006 0:10

That is the best first post I've seen... Very helpful indeed.

by **keysman** » 26 Jan 2006 5:36

GREAT POST!
could you give a little more detail on actually making the impression in the clay? any problems one might run into ect?
Thanks

by **Raccoon** » 26 Jan 2006 8:22

Very excellent post! What's funny, when looking at your first photo I said to myself "this dude's using bismuth isn't he." And sure enough.

Thanks for the source for obtaining 158Â°F bismuth alloy. Do you have any experience with their 117Â°F bismuth. Besides it costing 20x more, I'm wondering if it would pay off to have an ultra-low melting cast that can be reused over and over again? Assuming it melts at 117Â°F even after a dozen uses.

Here I've been casting with 520Â°F bismuth I bought to create crystals with. If you're looking for a good deal on 9999 bismuth, I get mine from here...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 6229166401

Regards. And do stick around!

by **raimundo** » 26 Jan 2006 11:10

Have you tried the technique in any metal mint tins? Does anyone know of a material that will harden without heat, that could be poured int the impression made in the foil over a strip of wrigleys gum, (with the gum inside the foil to support the foil impression) remember that most cast keys are not meant for use, but for copying onto a better blank.

by **Omikron** » 26 Jan 2006 12:14

I personally use United Nuclear for all of my random checmical needs...

http://www.unitednuclear.com/chem.htm

by **wtf|pickproof?** » 26 Jan 2006 14:51

raimundo wrote:Have you tried the technique in any metal mint tins? Does anyone know of a material that will harden without heat, that could be poured int the impression made in the foil over a strip of wrigleys gum, (with the gum inside the foil to support the foil impression) remember that most cast keys are not meant for use, but for copying onto a better blank.

Epoxyd comes to mind.

by **Snikrepmada** » 26 Jan 2006 19:16

The trick when pushing the key into the clay is to not wiggle side to side, straight up and out. The powder is the real key (no pun intended) to success. Too much and the powder the metal will not take proper and to little the key will mess up the mold. I hope this helps, if not I could do a step by step.

As to the 117 bismuth I find it does not work better for a number of reasons. First, the metal is to soft. 158 can still be melted with a lighter just like 117, and the cost just does not make it reasonable.

On a side note when I was experimenting with this I played around with a lot of plastic resins. Down fall is the time to cure, but the keys were perfect.

by **Raccoon** » 26 Jan 2006 23:46

w|p mentioned "Epoxyd", but I'm only finding german websites with that search. (typo?) Which plastic resins have you found success with?

According to the bismuth link you gave, the 117 bismuth has a greater hardness than the 158. It shouldn't be softer, unless it's 110 outside.

How would you compare the detail between resin and bismuth casts? How would you compare the detail between clay and wax molds?

Some random guys review of the Lock Pro Clam Kit

Some random guys review of the Lock Pro Clam Kit

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