Advice re appropriate tools

[Peter Solomon]

I require a little assisstance or guidance. For some this will be a simple question with (I hope) a simple answer.

I live in a rural area and do not have easy access to a locksmith for a home visit. I have an antique sideboard with two cabinet doors that are locked. I have a key which enters the barrel and turns part way but then stops! I cannot open the doors and the hinges are "hidden" so they can not be removed. The latch appears to be rectangular and unamenable to "shimming". Please see the linked photos below.





Would someone be able to suggest what tools or technique I may use to pick open this problem?

Thanks,

Peter

[illusion]

You will not be able to shim the latch open, it's a small deadlock really.

The lock you have is a simple lever lock, and if the key is jamming I would guess one of the levers inside to be perhaps broken, or the post which they are mounted upon bent.. etc... this would stop the key from fully turning.

I could post some photos of a cabinet lever lock I have, but this may or may not help much...

Has the key been damaged, bent, or changed in a way that would affect the function?

[TOWCH]

It's probably a warded lock. Take that key and coat the side in clay. Turn it in the lock and take it out. That'll give you an idea of what the wards look like. Get some piano wire and bend it appropriately to avoid the wards. Operate the latch with the piano wire.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Warded_lock

[TOWCH]

It could be a warded lock or a lever lock. If you feel a spring like resistance before the key won't turn any more it's a lever lock, if there is no springy feedback and it stops abruptly it's probably a warded.

[Peter Solomon]

Thank you for your replies.

There is indeed a bit of a "springy" feeling before the key rotation stops.

I did not try clay but I did attempt something similar with carbon paper from a carbon copy form. This attempt yielded sketchy results. I will try the clay.

Peter

[illusion]

Presuming the lock is a lever lock then either the key is damaged, or the lock is broken. I would suggest you perhaps try to pick it using two pieces of wire, but this is only really ideal if you wish to open the cabinet without damage.

Incidently I took the liberty of getting some photos of my 2 lever cabinet lock, perhaps they'll be of use:

The inside:
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b25/jangofett511/DSCF00751.jpg

The bolt:
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b25/jangofett511/DSCF00791.jpg

The 'levers':
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b25/jangofett511/DSCF00781.jpg

Should you choose, and feel comfortable with trying to pick the lock open this guide may help you, it is of a bigger lock, but the function is exactly the same.
http://www.lockpicking101.com/viewtopic.php?t=10743

Of course if it's the lock mechanism which is broken picking won't work.

One thing I will say is that the central pin which you can see in the keyway will make inserting tools difficult. Look for some wire which is both strong and relatively thin - 0.5 millimetres works well for mine.

You may as well try to pick it, but it's up to you. Hope I helped.

[Shrub]

Its a lever lock not a warded one, (towch, this is easy to tell as the key has no warding cuts)
If this is the correct key youve likely got a stuck lever, squirt some wd40 or suck like into the lock and turn the key in the lock directiondont force it but rather bounce it back and forth then do it in the unlock direction, it should give.

Has the cabinet been in damp conditions? if so the wood may have warped or expanded which is now gripping the bolt, try and see if the door moves any.

Dont stick clay into a lock and dont stick plastercine into a furniture lock, try the above and get back to us if its still not working.

Where do you live?

[toomush2drink]

Sounds like a faulty lever or as shrubs says the bolt is rubbing on its keep. Get some lube and take the plastic straw from the lube, now heat up the end with a lighter and pinch the end together. Now make a small pin hole at the end on the top of the tube and you are ready to lube the lock. This way you direct the spray at the levers where its needed.2 wires should open this lock easy enough, there is always the possiblity the key has worn and a lever needs to be lifted that little bit higher.

[scampdog]

Surely if youv'e got a photo of the lock, then making a key is easy(aba) and all that.

[illusion]

Surely if youv'e got a photo of the lock, then making a key is easy(aba) and all that.

???

how does having a photo of the outside of his lock make making a key easy?

[Shrub]

Get some lube and take the plastic straw from the lube, now heat up the end with a lighter and pinch the end together. Now make a small pin hole at the end on the top of the tube and you are ready to lube the lock. This way you direct the spray at the levers where its needed.

Love it

[pizarro]

if there is a draw above the cabinet, try removing the draw. if you can then see into the cabinet you may be able to get your hand and a screwdriver into the cabinet and just unscrew the lock dron the door.

I don't know if this helps as cant see if there is a draw above the cabinet door or not.

[Shrub]

Same goes for removeing the back if possable althougha lot of those locks screw on the edge so that may not help.

[Peter Solomon]

Thanks once again for the assistance/replies.

I can aces the inside of the cabint by pushing up the compartment bottom. Alas, this is of no help as the lock mechanism is inserted via the spine of the door!

I will try the "well dispursed" lubricant approach. If this fails then, wires to pick the lock.

One respondant asked where I am.................Chelsea...........but not in the UK. Chelsea, Quebec, Canada. Our soccer teams have been sporting a Chelsea emblem though.

Thanks all.......

[Rockford]

If when you turn the key it comes to a dead stop with no "springy" feeling, then it could be that the bolt hasn't completely thrown, and the levers are still in the gate. This is often caused by worn keys, and is easily resolved with a wire.