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Obtaining locks...

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
Forum rules
Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.

Obtaining locks...

Postby dr5euss » 9 Mar 2006 20:42

Hi,

No picks yet (on order, should be here next couple of days), but I want to go out 'on the prowl' for some locks (in skips etc.). I don't want to sound like some tramp (I will ask the person), but when I come to a skip with an old front door in it, and they say 'of course you can have it', how do I get this lock out?

I know it depends on the type of lock, but what about these standard 'Yale' ones - cylindrical...(sorry i don't know the terms - i'm getting there!) Will it not just fall apart, or will there be a couple of screws?

Once I've 'recovered' my lock, is it easier to pick them if it's attached to a vertical piece of MDF or ply?

Thanks,
George
Newbie Picker
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Postby Chrispy » 10 Mar 2006 5:25

Look for visible screw heads, grub screws, and push/snap on sections of the lock/handle. On some rim locks, you have to lift the lock body off the back of the door to get to the screws.

Otherwise, carry an angle grinder or a hacksaw. :wink:
Image
Some things may be pick proof, but everything can be bypassed....
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Postby dr5euss » 10 Mar 2006 12:24

Thanks Chrispy - i've just bought a 'securitat' cylinder lock.

I have no idea why peple would protect their house with £3 of lock!
George
Newbie Picker
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Postby Bahrg » 10 Mar 2006 20:28

dr5euss wrote:I have no idea why peple would protect their house with £3 of lock!


Cuz if the door is an ordinary one you could have a $300 one and someone could just boot the door in ;) Its that old "locks only keep out honest people" thing :)
Cause if they catch you in the back seat
Trying to pick her locks,
They're gonna send you back to mother
In a cardboard box. (Gilmour, Waters)
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Postby Shrub » 10 Mar 2006 20:42

People buy and fit them because most of the general public dont actually realise just how important the locks on the door are, its true that regardless of lock most burgulars will just break somthing to get in, they wont pick the locks in most cases, a poor lock on the door means they can buy a few more drinks in the pub or buy another dvd or somthing.

People are begining to wake up slowly and are starting to realise that the better the lock on the door the better chance of slowing a potential attacker down while the authorities are on the way, an empty house after all is just that an empty house, sure they will get away with valubles and belongings but no-one is going to be hurt phisicaly, youve got your health and thats the important thing.

The strengthing of various aspects of the security measures can far out way somthing like a 5 pin cylinder as opposed to a 6 pin high security one, strengthening of the door and frame and surrounding wall areas along with bars used to strengthen the frame and secure the locks in place a little stronger as lets face it a door once it has a mortice cut in it for a mortice lock has only 1/2" or so of wood either side of it to keep the lock from being simply pushed out the side by for example kicking the door in, a night latch is only as good as its fixings and if its cheap metal or poorly made then its not going to last a size 10 pick.

Until the vast majority of people wake up and realise how a shoddy security set up can not only be as good as giving their stuff away but also in todays age of guns and knives the differance between life or death, then people all around us wiull still go for the cheapest lock around.
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Postby dr5euss » 10 Mar 2006 21:37

Some good points.

I can't really fault out UPVC door - we had some idiot with a crowbar try and prise it open, but he only succeded in pulling the bottom half out, and marking the frame.
Sometimes it sags though, likeiin the summer, and the locks have to be realigned...
George
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Adding strength to a frame...

Postby geonap » 10 Mar 2006 22:23

Shrub wrote:People buy and fit them because most of the general public dont actually realise just how important the locks on the door are, its true that regardless of lock most burgulars will just break somthing to get in, they wont pick the locks in most cases, a poor lock on the door means they can buy a few more drinks in the pub or buy another dvd or somthing.

People are begining to wake up slowly and are starting to realise that the better the lock on the door the better chance of slowing a potential attacker down while the authorities are on the way, an empty house after all is just that an empty house, sure they will get away with valubles and belongings but no-one is going to be hurt phisicaly, youve got your health and thats the important thing.

The strengthing of various aspects of the security measures can far out way somthing like a 5 pin cylinder as opposed to a 6 pin high security one, strengthening of the door and frame and surrounding wall areas along with bars used to strengthen the frame and secure the locks in place a little stronger as lets face it a door once it has a mortice cut in it for a mortice lock has only 1/2" or so of wood either side of it to keep the lock from being simply pushed out the side by for example kicking the door in, a night latch is only as good as its fixings and if its cheap metal or poorly made then its not going to last a size 10 pick.

Until the vast majority of people wake up and realise how a shoddy security set up can not only be as good as giving their stuff away but also in todays age of guns and knives the differance between life or death, then people all around us wiull still go for the cheapest lock around.


I have been contemplating strengthining my door frames for some time now, what is the "easiest" or "best" way to do this? I understand the "kick in" concept and want to be able to defeat that. Thanks to all you "wise lock gods" in advance! :D
"Far better is it to dare mighty things… even though checkered by failure... than to rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy nor suffer much, because they... know not victory nor defeat."
~Theodore Roosevelt
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Postby Shrub » 11 Mar 2006 10:05

Well you can get bars that screw to the frame, you get one for the hinge side and one for the other, you can also get hinge bolts that are studs that go in to the frame and stick out into holes in the door, when the door is closed you basically have a series of bolts on the hinge side then as well as hinges also need to be a good quality and weight,

On my house i use exterior fire doors that are solid, a lot of doors i come across are the poor moulded ones or ones made form nothing more than thick cardboard.

Over here we have whats called London bars etc but i havent fitted any for a long time as its all cost to the customer which they dont like doing, you just cant explain to these people.
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Postby illusion » 11 Mar 2006 10:10

Code: Select all
Customer:

"Wait,so this London bar thing will make my home more secure, and in the event of an attempted burglary potentialy save the day?"

Lockie:

"Yeah, a great purchase!"

Customer:

"Purchase!?!? You mean I have to pay for this... not a chance"


Perhaps I exagerate though...
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Postby Shrub » 11 Mar 2006 10:12

Unfortunatley your pretty much on the mark there,

They are for basically holding the locks in place a bit better but do strengthen the frame as well.
Shrub
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Postby S&G » 13 Mar 2006 2:19

You want a real eye opener? Take the trim off the door frame on the inside of your door and have a look.
The trim covers a 3/4" peice of wood which most people have no idea that's the only thing keep your door closed.
Knowing that and doing nothing about it, yeah, buy the $3 lock for your $5 frame.
Weakest link...

Oh yeah, check the hinge side too.
And what's holding that frame square into the studs?
Did you see dry wall screws?
<shiver>
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How to reinforce?

Postby geonap » 13 Mar 2006 3:33

How does one go about effectively reinforcing the frame to prevent the "kick in" type attack?
"Far better is it to dare mighty things… even though checkered by failure... than to rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy nor suffer much, because they... know not victory nor defeat."
~Theodore Roosevelt
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Postby vector40 » 13 Mar 2006 3:43

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Postby geonap » 13 Mar 2006 4:44



I think this: "Bracing: Take between a 2 and 3 foot piece of flat steel stripping (1/8 x 2 inches is good) and drill a staggered series of holes down its length. When you take the interior molding off the door -- in most houses -- you will see the 1x6" (or 1x5") pine plank of the doorframe. That is nailed to the 2x4" studs of the wall. (You may or may not be able to see the studs because of drywall, but they are there). That thin 1 inch piece of cheap wood (it is usually pine) is all that was between your possessions and a burglar. A few savage kicks, and it usually breaks off in a 2- to -3 foot sliver and the door swings open."

...is what I was looking for. Does this seem logical (and effective) to everyone? Other ideas?
"Far better is it to dare mighty things… even though checkered by failure... than to rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy nor suffer much, because they... know not victory nor defeat."
~Theodore Roosevelt
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Postby vector40 » 13 Mar 2006 5:39

Marc's a guy who's been around the block a time or six. His information's pretty reliable.

Doesn't mean there isn't necessarily an easier way to do it, though.
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