help...making a cut-away padlock

[pinsetter]

I bought a cheap Mountain Security padlock from Wal-mart to make a cut-away from. I can't see where the pins are that need to be drilled to remove the lock pins. Is there any way to make these pins become visible so I'll know where to drill without heating the lock and ruining the springs?

Here's what I want to do:

I want to remove all the internals and cut out the body first, then I'll do the plug second. I want to tap the ends of the holes where I remove all the pins so I can install threaded allen head plugs to hold the pins and springs in. This will make it easy to change pin configurations, add security pins, add/remove pins for practice, etc...

I'm doing this to make a picking video to help a fellow picker through some troubles.

This cheap padlock does however seem to be finished well enough that I can't tell where to drill the pin that hold the cylinder in the lock, or any of the plugs that cover the spring/pin combos. I know where to look for them, but just can't see where they were originally drilled. Does anyone know a way to make the pins show up?

[Shrub]

A rub with some emry paper may do it but maybe try putting it in some boiling water until its hot (this wont damage strengths of it and you are pulling it appart so you can clean it better after wards) then once its to temp put it in some ice cold water, you may even find that the plugs holding the pins and springs in pop out and save you drilling them.

Other than that look in the keyway you will see which side the pins are on, then you can measure off the key to get the right spacing, drill a small hole first then enlarge it once you know your in the right place.

A pic of the lock may help.

The above advice is for a brass bodied lock.

[pinsetter]

Thanks Shrub!

It is indeed a brass bodied lock. I bought brass for ease of cutting. I'll try the boiling water later tonight when I get home.

I already tried the emery paper and had no luck there.

I had thought of heating it with a propane blowtorch to expand the metal of the body and release the pins, but was concerned about the springs losing their temper. The boiling water sounds like a good idea! If that fails I'll just use the key as you explained to measure it all out.

Thanks for the quick reply!

[Shrub]

A file can work wonders if the emry paper didnt work.

[Keyring]

Actually you can use the key to work out where the holes are. They pretty much have to be in the middle between the front and back of the lock, and in line with the cuts in the key.

[clayton1123]

you guys from the U.K. are awesome. you give so much info and expect nothing in return.

Just like to say I appreciate all the time and effort you put into this site.

[pinsetter]

Well, last night I threw the lock in a pan of boiling water. It did not cause any of the pins to come out, but it did cause them to discolor enough to see them. That lock was hard to pick and I could see why when I seen the drilling placement. It is bad! It is a 3 dollar lock and the drilling shows it. It'll still make a good cut-away though!
Thanks for the tips!

[Varjeal]

Just for another tip for those reading this thread in the future, if you take a file across the side of the padlock (above where the pins are in the plug) and run it (one direction only) across the surface several times it may reveal the locations as well. Use a 1/8" drill bit to a depth of 1/8" should cleanly remove the retaining pin. Repeat for the rest of the stacks. Be careful not to shred the springs of course.

[pinsetter]

one more question:

How long would the plug retaining pin be, and what does the pin go into?
It obviously can't go all the way into the plug since the plug has to rotate.

It appears to be a pin of the same diameter as the little plugs that hold the springs and pins in, and is located just past the last pin stack placement.

[Keyring]

It's long enough to go into a slot cut around the circumference of the plug. So the plug can turn, but not fall out.